Bike Mount,i-Mate Universal Bicycle Motorcycle Handlebar Mount Cell Phone Holder Cradle 2 SAFETY BANDS INCLUDED Adjustable for iPhone 6 6S SE Plus 5S 5C, Samsung,Nexus,HTC,LG ,GPS Device

4.99 out of 5

$16.98

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i-Mate Bike Mount is a great companion for your journey. Securely mount your phone, mp4 player or other devices to the handlebars of your bicycle,motorcycle,baby carriage or treadmill with a tight grip.

Features:

- Easy to install and quick release.
- Screw fixed for handlebar, prevent your device from dropping.
- Special stretch clip with two silicone support bands design for safety lock, strengthen locking function, keeps your device more secure.
- 360 degrees rotating allow adjusting the display to the most convenient position
- Protect your cell phone from shaking, scratching with soft and anti-slip silicone gel
- Compatible with most smartphones, MP4/MP5, GPS, PDA and so on.

Specifications:

- Fit for bike/motorcycle handlebar 0.63-1.14inch/ 16-29mm
- Suit for phone width for 2.17-3.54inch/5.5-9 cm
- Material: ABS+Silicone
- Phone Holder Width: 2.17-3.54inch/5.5-9 cm

Package Included:

1 x i-Mate Bike Mount
2 x Silicone Bands

Our bike phone mount is the most secure and easy to use on the market.
If you're not 100% satisfied we'll immediately give you a full refund no questions asked!


  • Bike Mount,i-Mate Universal Bicycle Motorcycle $14.98

  • 2 Silicone Butterfly Bands can be used interchangeably, grip and protect your phone in all directions with phone mount and to prevent you device fall out of bike.
  • Universal Fit: Compatible with most devices,2.3-3.5" wide clamp can hold Iphone 6+/6s/5s/5c/4s, Galaxy S6/s5/s4/s3/s2, Note 5/4/3/2 HTC One & Other Smartphone.
  • Soft Black rubber lines for clamp can reduce vibration as well as avoid phone surface scratches.
  • 3 setting and 2 pcs rubber can be at least 5 different installation diameter,the max diameter is 1 inch.
  • 360 degeree Rotation with Easy Installation with Lifetime Warranty.
  • Sean Berge

    I use the same app. [I bought this phone mount for my bike](Roam Universal Premium Bike Phone Mount for Motorcycle - Bike Handlebars, Adjustable, Fits iPhone 6s | 6s Plus, iPhone 7 | 7 Plus, Galaxy S7, S6, S5, Holds Phones Up To 3.5" Wide https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWDCSIZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NDx0yb8VAJGYS) but re-purposed it and mounted it to my walking cart. Easy, just unlock the phone and record shot and I'm on my way. I also use it in conjuction with my smart watch so I can glance at yardage on my wrist and tap my watch to record the shot, only use the phone to set my club as I'm walking to my next shot.

  • Gus Franecki

    How exactly do you expect to speak/hear? I find wearing earbuds under my helmet extremely uncomfortable, but ok than can take care of audio. However, that doesn't answer how you expect to speak. If you get the earbuds with the little in-line mic you'd have to somehow mount it in the helmet after putting it on because any attempt to do so before hand would probably just break when you put the helmet on. It's just going to be incredibly awkward in any case.. Just buy an SMH-5 two pack instead. Plenty good enough for short distance and then you have something to listen to music and GPS without having to futz around with earbuds every time you put on your helmet. https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/sena-smh5-bluetooth-headset-dual-pack-universal-mic

  • Lindsey Cronin

    I have tried it and I am really satisfied!

  • Karley Douglas

    I bought [This Phone Holder](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Motorcycle-Bike-Bicycle-Handlebar-Mount-Holder-For-Cell-Phone-GPS-/201133852741?var=&hash=item2ed4830845:m:mSSItQ5RwaQUc2AHZ7Q2lig). Doesn't look like much but I ride a motorcycle and the phone has never budged on highway potholes.

  • Ezekiel Weimann

    My friend recommended me this..and i liked it.good quality

  • Alexie Marvin

    >I don't feel women have total rights over their bodies when they are pregnant. Although I will be working (a lot) very soon, and want equal wages, I wouldn't have a problem returning to a system in which equal wages would be a non-issue (i.e. the world of my great-grandparents where men worked and women primarily cared for the home and the children). Could you expand on this? Why do you believe women don't have rights over their body, and who do you believe DOES have the right to their body? You say you wouldn't mind a single breadwinner single homemaker system, but do you still believe women should be allowed to work? Would homemaking be strictly women like it was (primarily) in the period you reference? You are "educated" in feminism and women's rights, but you are advocating for a return to a system where women were considered and treated essentially as property. I'm just trying to get an idea of exactly what your position is, and how you came to it.

  • Marvin Wiegand

    Thank you for doing such a great job.

  • Norval Hills

    FWIW I bought a $100 official Ngata jersey from the NFL that has now completely fallen apart. I bought a $30 Suggs jersey (equivalent of a $300 retail) a few years back from AliExpress (i.e. China) and it still looks like new. It's been a few years and I'm not sure if that's still a thing, but if it is, the value can't be beat.

  • Gordon Eichmann

    It's the first time I stumble upon something good and useful

  • Amaya Oberbrunner

    I like your store, definitely need to visit it more often.

  • Meghan Blanda

    Invest in a bike mate!

  • Arlo Emard

    I think I need to check out your deals in more often way.

  • Presley Hodkiewicz

    I Didnt discover any disadvantages, only benefits.

  • June Schuster

    SCORING Batting Singles (1B) 1 Doubles (2B) 2 Triples (3B) 3 Home Runs (HR) 4 Walks (BB) 1 Runs Scored (R) 1 Runs Batted In (RBI) 1 Stolen Bases (SB) 1 Strikeouts (K) -1 Intentional Walks (IBB) 1 Hit by Pitch (HBP) 1 Sacrifices (SAC) 1 Caught Stealing (CS) -1 Ground into Double Plays (GIDP) -1 Errors (E) -1 Pitching Innings Pitched (IP) 3 Earned Runs (ER) -2 Saves (SV) 5 Strikeouts (K) 1 Hits Allowed (H) -1 Walks Issued (BB) -1 Hit Batsmen (HB) -1 Wild Pitches (WP) -1 Balks (B) -1

  • Lionel Weber

    To be sure I thought to give it a try and I liked it

  • Aliya Jenkins

    I don't see the point of buying a $500 camera for my bike when I can mount my phone on my bike with a $10 holder from ebay. My phone does everything, like bluetooth music, phone calls, gps, calorie counters, 16MP [email protected] video, every ting.

  • Deja Ernser

    Pretty good for the beginning..

  • Anastasia Schmitt

    Save the unicorn! I was curious so I looked up alternatives for its usage and found a huge list! I liked the coat hook idea... that would keep the cute unicorn around and visible for years to come .... and represent new priorities ? :) 2. Untie knots. 3. Pry the battery out of a cell phone. 4. Screw it into a wall and hang your coat on the SAK. 5. Staple remover. 6. Smooth out the hole you just made with the reamer. 7. Clear clogged faucet sprayer. 8. Bicycle tire valve tool. 9. Holds the micro screwdriver. 10. Pick gravel out of tires. 11. Rip open a blister package. 12. Ice pick. 13. Mark a pilot hole. 14. Clean mud out of shoe soles. 15. Knot the end of a cord. Thread it through the corkscrew. Handle. 16. Pop balloons. 17. Aides in sewing. 18. Clean mud out of sprinkler heads. 19. Push used snare wire through it, to straighten out the wire and remove coils or kinks. 20. Pulls the drain plug out of a tub. 21. Open the corkscrew and screw it tightly into a broomstick-thickness stick. Now open the blade. Tie it securely. Survival spear for fishing. 22. Hang the SAK from a piece of cordage from the ceiling. Plumb bob (I have the middle of the handle marked on one mine). 23. Corkscrew + a metal lid = a filter or wire mesh for cooking. 24. Carry a chunk of C4. 25. Pull frozen shoestrings tight, or help loosen them. 26. Helps get the innards out of a squirrel. 27. Gets the candle stub out of a candle holder. 28. Start fights on multitool forums. 29. Remove the fuel filter from a lawn mower. 30. Although the new corkscrews are 4 turns, you can use them for range estimation. 31. O-ring remover for your flashlights. 32. Pry out partially-exposed nails. 33. Tighten the apron strings on a wrestling ring. 34. The inside diameter of the corkscrew is 1/4". I'm sure you know what you can do with this. 35. Open just a small hole in a coconut. 36. Lift stuck items out of boxes. 37. Fish the tape out of a clogged VHS tape. 38. Remove patches from a flintlock gun. 39. Remove the inside of a shotgun shell, making a blank. Remove the wad and powder too. 40. If you don't want the mini screwdriver, the corkscrew can hold a ferro rod. 41. Tap a tree for sap. 42. Undo zip ties without breaking them.

  • Angelo Weber

    I'm a fairly new rider (last couple months)... I live in Connecticut, therefore I have a car (aside from a very few cities, it's pretty much a requirement in this state as stuff is very spread out). That's not going to change, I love driving in a car and there's snow half the year. I don't remember what exactly gave me the idea to get into motorcycles. But I remember I had a few conversations here and the one common thread was how much fun it was. I was concerned about the risk but I did the research and found that a majority of the risk can be eliminated if you 1. get proper training, 2. wear the right gear, 3. ride a bike with ABS brakes, and 4. don't do stupid shit. More than that, I have a set of 'personal minimums' (aviation term) for when I will and won't ride, for example when riding at night I wear lots of hi-viz stuff and stick to lit roads, and I don't ride at all if the roads are wet or may be icy. The people I'd talked to suggested I try the MSF (motorcycle safety foundation) training class, it's pretty much a national standard 'motorcycle 101' class which over the course of a few days takes you from 'how do I turn the bike on' to 'I'm ready to ride on the road relatively safely'. Since they supply the bike, that seemed like a good experiment. Needless to say I absolutely loved it. Even on the tiny little 250cc bikes, and even driving around the parking lot, there's a sense of connection with the road that you don't get in a car. Car tech has improved a lot, and cars are now little insulated armored bubbles of calm, or at least that's the design goal. But that takes you farther away from the actual experience of driving. On a bike you feel the engine underneath you, the transmission is manual-shift, and the road is right under your feet. Twist the throttle and you both HEAR and FEEL the engine under you. It's a much more connected experience than driving. My first few times driving on the road were a bit messy, a 'real' bike is physically larger than the bikes they have at MSF and that took some getting used to. Same with turning- that took some practice as even in MSF I kept feeling like I was going to fall over. But it's been a hell of a ride so far (no pun intended) and I've loved every minute of it. It's really fun to see your own skill develop... But long story short- I decided to get a motorcycle because lots of people told me it would be fun, and I found out that it is. The best part about riding is the riding. It's one of those experiences that's difficult to put into words, much like the feeling of a passionate kiss. You can try to describe it, but reading the description doesn't provide a real indication of what the sensation is actually like. Being on a bike is being connected to the road and the places you ride through. You feel the air blowing by you, you feel little variations in temperature from one area to the next, you smell little things that are going on in local areas- both stronger smells like a barbecue or fire, a farm, a restaurant, etc but also weaker smells like freshly cut grass, fall leaves, etc. As the road surface changes you feel it and you hear it. You really experience the places you travel in, as your vehicle isn't trying to insulate you from those places. Also, most cars now provide a flood of information. Music is beamed in via satellites, a nav system shows me where I am and where I'm going and how to get there and where the traffic is, etc. I purposely haven't gotten a phone mount for my bike, both because of safety/distraction and because I get on a bike to NOT look at a screen. My bike tells me the RPM and speed and fuel level, and there's a bunch of red lights that come on to indicate a mechanical problem. That's the only information I want or need on a bike. That clears the mind, provides mental space to think about things without more information flooding in. Bottom line- it's really quite fun. Perhaps the second best part about riding is that it's made me a better driver. On a bike, you don't have a 4500lb steel cage protecting you. That means if you do something wrong, chances are you're getting hurt as a result. And even if the other guy does something dumb, if you don't avoid it you're still probably getting hurt. This is powerful motivation to pay a LOT closer attention. This reminder to keep situational awareness up has translated to my driving and I think made me a better driver. The worst part about riding is the occasional lives lost. Lots of good people have died in motorcycle accidents. However an awful lot of those good people weren't wearing the proper gear. :( ----- To answer a question I think you are thinking but didn't ask- **Yes, it's worth it.** The days spent in class, the hundreds of dollars spent on training, the more hundreds spent on safety gear, thousands spent on the bike, and the risk of being out on the road without a steel armor cage around you. It's all worth it. I've only ridden a few months now, but I know for sure that I always want to have a motorcycle for as long as I live. Hope that helps! Feel free to ask if you have any questions...

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  • Sebastian Schiller

    Imgur album here: http://imgur.com/a/NC6eR I was commuting to work and it was raining lightly. My offramp is backed up and I slow down to join the line. While decreasing my speed, I keep an eye on the Subaru in my mirror to make sure that she is also slowing down. As a precaution, I position myself closer to the left so I can get out if needed, but it was no use. A white Plymouth slams into the Subaru from behind at full speed and I hear tires squeal. Before I can react, my bike is pushed out from underneath me like a tablecloth, and smashes into the back of the Lexus. Upon getting up, my first reaction was sheer annoyance that the motorcycle I had for less than a month was now in a thousand pieces. The crash was so violent that my phone fell out of the Ram mount and the key in the ignition got bent. I ended up with only minor bruises on my lower back and a strained hamstring. It turned out that my backpack cushioned most of my impact with the ground. I was wearing a helmet, gloves, a textile jacket, regular jeans, and sneakers. None of my gear or clothing was damaged. I am currently in the process processing my claim with an insurance adjuster. The driver of the white Plymouth does not have insurance, but fortunately the uninsured motorist coverage on my policy is taking effect. I am hoping that it will be a write-off so that I don't have to deal with repairs. I keep watching the video over and over again trying to figure out what I could have done differently. I have had many close calls before that have taught me valuable lessons, but this incident just seemed like incredibly bad luck. I'm going to have to take some time off from riding while I contemplate if it's worth going against my friends' and family's wishes to get another motorcycle. TL;DR: Rear-ended in a multi-vehicle collision. I only have minor bruises, but the bike is completely destroyed. Not sure what I could have done differently to avoid this.

  • Elroy Marvin

    Biker posted here: https://www.reddit.com/r/motorcycles/comments/5aup7u/i_was_rearended_on_my_motorcycle_this_week_in_a/ Imgur album here: http://imgur.com/a/NC6eR I was commuting to work and it was raining lightly. My offramp is backed up and I slow down to join the line. While decreasing my speed, I keep an eye on the Subaru in my mirror to make sure that she is also slowing down. As a precaution, I position myself closer to the right so I can get out if needed, but it was no use. A white Plymouth slams into the Subaru from behind at full speed and I hear tires squeal. Before I can react, my bike is pushed out from underneath me like a tablecloth, and smashes into the back of the Lexus. Upon getting up, my first reaction was sheer annoyance that the motorcycle I had for less than a month was now in a thousand pieces. The crash was so violent that my phone fell out of the Ram mount and the key in the ignition got bent. I ended up with only minor bruises on my lower back and a strained hamstring. It turned out that my backpack cushioned most of my impact with the ground. I was wearing a helmet, gloves, a textile jacket, regular jeans, and sneakers. None of my gear or clothing was damaged. I am currently in the process processing my claim with an insurance adjuster. The driver of the white Plymouth does not have insurance, but fortunately the uninsured motorist coverage on my policy is taking effect. I am hoping that it will be a write-off so that I don't have to deal with repairs. I keep watching the video over and over again trying to figure out what I could have done differently. I have had many close calls before that have taught me valuable lessons, but this incident just seemed like incredibly bad luck. I'm going to have to take some time off from riding while I contemplate if it's worth going against my friends' and family's wishes to get another motorcycle. TL;DR: Rear-ended in a multi-vehicle collision. I only have minor bruises, but the bike is completely destroyed. Not sure what I could have done differently to avoid this.

  • Amie Von

    I use RAM Mount hardware for my phone and camera, When I'm not riding the bike it's easy to remove the attachments and leave the bases in place. They also sell locks you can put on the knobs to keep people from operating them. http://www.rammount.com/part/RAM-KNOB3LU I'd recommend some saddlebags for shopping, It's no fun wearing a heavy backpack while riding, You can get inexpensive saddle bags that are for large dogs off amazon for pretty cheap https://www.amazon.com/Stansport-Saddle-Bag-for-Dog/dp/B000HJJHXK Alarms with pagers are not that expensive actually! https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Automotive-9100-Motorcycle-Paging/dp/B00J3QM4OC/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1485296833&sr=8-1&keywords=gorilla+alarm+with+pager I'd recommend always locking your bike to a large immovable object, 50cc bikes are small and light and easy to pick up and toss in a van or truck if they are untethered. I have never had my bike messed with or moved in a parking lot, I always make sure to park near the back of the space so drivers see my bike, If I'm shopping and the store has a cart corral that doesn't take up a full spot I'll park my bike in those spots with the carts. Oh for pants if you can't afford motorcycle specific ones I'd go for a set of 'Firehose' pants, they are more durable than denim. http://women.duluthtrading.com/store/womens/work-clothes/wm-fire-hose/work-clothes-fh.aspx There was a guy who used to ride with my club that was handicapped and had a handicapped plate on his scooter, he always parked in the reserved spots and never had a problem doing so.

  • Kiley Grady

    Woody you mention you want a taller windscreen but dont want the gold wing look. Check out the ["Givi Airflow Windshield System"](http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/givi-airflow-windscreens). Its a two piece windscreen so you can remove the top part and then put it back on when you go on a long ride on a cold day. You also mention the bike can get uncomfortable on the highway, look into changing the sprocket ratio. Most people do this to add more toque and take away top speed but you can do the opposite just as easy. I assume the phone mount you mentioned was the Ram X Mount, its great i have it. I highly suggest getting the rubber harness they sell too. I've had my phone fly off at high speed. Also zip tie the rubber ends on the mount its self, those tend to slip off. For a new seat look into Sargent Seats those are the usual go to for aftermarket seats. Heated grips + Bark Busters is a great combo, no wind and added heat. Good call on getting something less sporty. I ride an 1000cc sports bike and its true how they beg you to go faster, but I dont have kids. Dirt riding is a great way to enjoy motorcycles and avoid its biggest dangers (cars). In my opinion dirt riding is WAYY more fun than street riding ever gets even at 150+Mph. IDK if woody still reads this sub but if you do, enjoy the bike.

  • Willie Runolfsson

    Yes you can do this. Motorcycles do not use the OBD-II protocol. However, most bikes have something called the CAN BUS. You will need to identify where your BUS connector is and buy an adapter for your specific model. Then you can plug it into a serial connection to USB (like OBD II). Or, you may be able to find a motorcycle bluetooth CAN BUS dongle and do it wirelessly. After you've bought the connector and the cable/bluetooth dongle, you will want to begin researching all the CAN BUS commands or look up a library to use on your RPi. Then, you'll want to figure out what you're going to do exactly (collect data, act on that data, display that data where, etc), and execute it. You can have this display on a screen or create a mobile app to communicate with your RPi. Is it possible? Most certainly. Can you (specifically) do it? Honestly, probably not based on the way you asked the question. This would be incredibly difficult to make and then you'd have to wire this into your bike, do it neatly, weather proof *everything*, and find room in your bike to mount the computer safely and also on your handlebars where you want the phone/external display. You will also need a lot of Linux, networking, and mobile app development knowledge.

  • Monique Carroll

    I've been searching the Ingress posts and elsewhere for how tips on how to keep playing in the winter cold. I had purchased a Vibrelli bike mount to ride and play this summer, and I remembered the silicone "gaskets" it came with. There were extra, so I strapped one on my phone, as seen in the picture. It works like a charm! I had purchased a bike mount this summer to ride and play, and it came with extra silicone straps. The hand warmers are flat enough to slip under and they stay in place great. An added bonus was to keep one upper corner unattached, and I slid my pointer finger under it, which held my phone securely to my glove! It was a nice break from grasping the phone, and I could swing my arm fully and it didn't come loose. I am now wearing heavy bulky gloves, so I use a stylus. It has been an adjustment getting used to playing like this, but worth it for warmth! I looked up to see if you could buy JUST the silicone straps, and you can. Here is the link: https://www.amazon.com/Wellci-Replacement-Universal-Motorcycle-Smartphone/dp/B01GWLU8O8/ref=sr_1_7?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1482245683&sr=1-7&keywords=Replacement+silicone+bike+mount I hope this helps my fellow cold weather players!

  • Ibrahim Stanton

    Depends on what tag reader you're using. I use [NFC ReTag](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.widgapp.NFC_ReTAG_PRO&hl=en), which generates an event when it detects a tag's presence and can be configured to generate another when it it goes away. The problem you're more likely to have is the phone not being able to see the tag if it's sandwiched between the mount and the metal plate. Put everything in place with a bit of masking tape and try it out before you commit to it. One other bit of practical advice: use as many variables as you can to detect whether or not you're in the car. I have a RAM GDS dock on my motorcycle with a tag stuck to it that I use to signal that the speedometer and navigation apps I use should be started. My setup is just at the hairy edge once in a great while, the tag "drops out," causing my phone to go back into not-on-the-bike mode. I got around this by keeping track of the presence of the NFC tag, whether there's power connected and whether the Bluetooth adapter that connects to my audio system is nearby (that, it turns out, reboots once in a while, too). If two of those three are positive, I activate "bike mode" and keep it there until the count drops below that.

  • D'angelo Ritchie

    RAM is a company that make all sorts of things. The common bit is the ball-and-clamp assembly. They make stuff for motorbikes, boats, aircraft and just generally-useful things. You *probably* want some sort of handlebar-mounted ball, an arm and something on the end to hold your phone. If your phone is waterproof, an x-grip is one good option, and ebay's generally a good place to find people selling the whole lot: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RAM-X-Grip-Motorcycle-Bike-Handlebar-Mount-for-iPhone-7-PLUS-6S-PLUS-6-PLUS-/142133934220 which highlights the other thing about RAM; they're expensive (and really good). Other companies have adopted the same-size ball fitting and while they're mostly less good at it, they're also generally way cheaper. Ultimate Add-ons use the ram-size ball a lot, for about a third of the price.

  • Turner Macejkovic

    Under $300- easy. Sena headset intercom kit. It goes in her helmet and lets her talk with other riders. But, it also connects to a mobile phone with Bluetooth, so the phone can play music, phone call audio, AND nav directions right into the headset. [Sena 10S motorcycle bluetooth intercom kit $215](https://www.amazon.com/Sena-10S-01-Motorcycle-Bluetooth-Communication/dp/B00FL6CA74/) If you want to spend a bit more than $300, there's the 10C for $350 which has a built in camera. That can be a safety thing, so if a driver does something bad she has evidence of it. Note- if she has a Schuberth helmet (expensive European brand) get her the Schuberth bluetooth kit as it integrates into the helmet... If you want cheaper, try a [$45 RAM Cell Phone mount](https://www.amazon.com/Ram-RAM-B-149Z-UN7U-Handlebar-Mount-Universal/dp/B006X387ZS/) so she can mount her cell phone on her bike handlebars. This may not be a great gift if she's really new to riding though as the mounted cell phone can be a distraction in some cases...

  • Jon Heaney

    I haven't been able to listen to the whole list but skimmed through, so apologies for any duplicates. But here's a list from my personal snowboard playlist on my phone. Kid Cudi - Pursuit of Happiness (Nightmare) MGMT - Time to Pretend, Electric Feel Justice - Genesis, Phantom, Lupe Fiasco - Kick Push M83 - Midnight City Mount Sims - How We Do Of Monsters and Men - Mountain Sound Phantogram - Fall in Love, Mouth Full of Diamonds RJD2 - Ghostwriter The White Stripes - Icky Thump Black Rebel Motorcycle Club - Six Barrel Shotgun Blackmill - Let it Be Daft Punk - Touch it, Get Lucky Edward Sharpe and Magnetic Zeros - Home Gorrilaz - Tomorrow Comes Today, Clint Eastwood The Naked and Famous - Young Blood, Punching in a Dream Pretty Lights Sublime Moby - Run on Lastly, but maybe most importantly Eddie Grant - Electric Avenue.

  • Lue Schamberger

    well its easy to drop 1-2k on gear. Good gear that is all weather, and season flexible is going to run low to mid 1k. http://www.revzilla.com/4-season-motorcycle-jackets these are on sale and heard good thing about them http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/olympia-dakar-dual-sport-jacket the pants are more spendy http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/olympia-x-moto-2-pants also if your doing a long ride like this practical is best. go for high vis. I would also look at carrying water something like a camelbak as well. so easy to dehydrate if your just pushing through. A fuel bottle(s) for those oh shit the next gas is how far? stop every 100 or so miles to just stretch out and not get too zoned out. a phone mount and set up a charging system for the bike so you charge the phone (easy to do). use Waze to avoid speed traps in new areas

  • Zoe Beatty

    OK, got my case today. First impression; it's big. Makes it feel like the XL. Then, I removed my screen protector and case only to realize the LifeProof case with some sticky something on the inside of the screen protector. It took 20 minutes to get that off and clean enough to be happy with (but I'm finicky too). Got the phone in and want happy with the screen protector as it almost pixelated the screen a small amount on a white screen - stone getting used to. Now, I'm liking it a bit more once it's settled and well mated to the device. Bulky but utility should outweigh aesthetics. Doesn't look bad, but not as nice as I had it. I'm also looking into the LifeProof motorcycle bar mount which will be a nice add with the confidence to use it.

  • Loyce Crist

    Scooters aren't very good at letting you mount stuff on the handlebars. All that fairing gets in the way. Everything out there is designed to be mounted on traditional motorcycle handlebars. Fortunately you can just get an [adaptor](https://www.amazon.co.jp/dp/B01MDR5JHZ/) which puts a bit of motorcycle-handlebar-sized piping onto your handlebars (it fits in under the rear-view mirror mount). And then suddenly the world of phone mounting kits opens up for you. You can get a cheap plastic mounting kit, or you can spend beaucoup du bux and get a proper RAM mounting kit.

  • Rasheed Russel

    When I'm touring I deploy both my radar detector and my phone. I mount both with seperate cradles that both connect to the bike using RAM Mount style ball joints. The phone cradle is attached to the handlebars on the left side bar and is more or less permanent but the cradle for the radar detector only goes on for the occasional 'spirited' ride, or as I say, when touring, so when I don't need the detector deployed, I detach the cradle and just leave the exposed ball joint for less clutter. I use a Techmount cradle for my phone and an X-Grip cradle for my detector. Also, check out Adaptiv Technologies TPX radar detectors as they're really the best solution for running radar detection on a motorcycle.

  • Kali Ullrich

    A friend of mine bought [this](https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-TurnRaise-Bracket-Charger-Smartphones/dp/B015PTVKOA/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1487622200&sr=8-10&keywords=motorcycle+phone+mount). He brought it in to work and after playing around with it I bought myself 2 (1 for my bike and 1 for the girlfriend). It's honestly the same as the RAM stuff but with lesser finish quality. Phone is not going anywhere once its in it. Plus it comes with the charger and a on/off button.

  • Rafaela Macejkovic

    I'm a year and a half into a job that I'm not sure is a good fit for me. Car battery was dead last Friday so I rode the motorcycle to work on a rainy day. Hit an oil slick on the onramp and crashed, damaged the bike although it was still rideable. Continued to work for some reason. Forgot to put the phone away in my backpack and left it on the mount. Got stuck in a downpour. Phone's got water damage, bike is in the shop for annual work in addition to some repair from the crash, and had to buy a new battery for the car. Also my work laptop is busted. I'm not sure if I can afford a nice Christmas present for my girlfriend. I've had better weeks.

  • Verdie Sawayn

    I actually used a rhinoshield for a couple weeks because I was curious if I would be OK with a bumper. I absolutely hated the way it made the edges of the phone feel, which is the part of the phone I touch most. I also couldn't get on board with how wide it made the side bezels look. I just don't like cases. And in nearly 10 years of smartphone ownership I've never dropped and damaged one so I think I'm fine. It makes sense in the case of your motorcycle mount. But if I was in your shoes I think I'd be tempted to only put the case on when I needed it like that.

  • Haleigh Satterfield

    Thanks for the insight. The Maxx is pretty tough. I mount mine to the handlebars of my motorcycle when I ride for gps and Bluetooth music using a ram x-grip. Got caught in a torrential downpour coming back from Laconia to RI Father's Day weekend last year and after four hours of not being about to see 10 feet in front of me the phone was still chugging right along. The nano coating Moto put on their motherboards is phenomenal.

  • Marcel Medhurst

    I use an [Arkon](https://smile.amazon.com/Arkon-SM432-Bicycle-Motorcycle-Handlebar/dp/B004M8ST4A) for my LG G4 phone and a [Ram Mount](https://smile.amazon.com/Cradle-Holder-TomTom-Start-535T/dp/B00550D1AG) with the [handlebar mount](https://smile.amazon.com/Mounting-Systems-RAM-B-149ZU-Handlebar-Mount/dp/B000XDGJQI) for my TomTom satnav.

  • Keegan Schultz

    There's [this](http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorcycle-Bicycle-Mobile-Phone-GPS-Handlebar-Mount-X-Holder-Grip-USB-Charger-BF-/351728544388?hash=item51e4a7aa84:g:dEUAAOSwSclXL-gn) that looks like it would mount but you'd need to get some kind of bolt to hold it in place as it's designed to fit between the mount and the mirror.

  • Aaliyah Smitham

    It does have purpose for certain people. I ride a motorcycle and the GPS function of it combined with my smartphone make it paramount for traveling. I'd get a mount for my phone, but I'm not trusting of not having my phone on my handlebars when going 50+ mph on the road. It is weird how one of the things I criticized the most of smartwatches is now my favorite thing about it. (Not having to look at your phone to get information)

  • Josue Leuschke

    isnt it the car you dont see that gets you though? why not just use a cell phone mount on your bike? [Ram mounts](https://www.amazon.com/Ram-RAM-B-149Z-UN7U-Handlebar-Mount-Universal/dp/B006X387ZS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481876697&sr=8-1&keywords=motorcycle+phone+ram+mount) are amazing

  • Drew Anderson

    Yeah, plenty. Does he have a headset? If not, look into buying a SENA. Does he wear full gear? Maybe buy him a nice purpose-built leather motorcycle jacket. Does he have a mount for his phone? If not, try a RAM mount. What kind of bike does he ride? He may be interested in fender eliminator kits, frame sliders, aftermarket exhaust systems, saddlebags, hard cases, etc.

  • Hayden Funk

    I have a gps mount on my motorcycle and it's solid as a rock, the mechanism that locks the gps (mobile phone in my case) inside the waterproof case to the mount located on my handlebars is some high tech locking system that only comes undone if you exert enough force on it in a single direction. My gps holder/mount is by 'Ultimate Addons' and it's a universal design.

  • Icie Robel

    Voice directions via Bluetooth to your helmet, or get a dedicated motorcycle GPS... I'm not aware of any app that can do what you want, but looking at a small watch while riding is not a good idea! Cheapest solution: Get a case/mount for your phone and attach it to the handlebars. Plenty of options in all price ranges out there.

  • Mac Trantow

    iPod (for in your car or home. I have the same phone for just that) or even as a gps for your bicycle or motorcycle or whatever. Just find a decent mount and you don't even need Internet for GPS (but you can use your current phone in your pocket as a hot spot of you want). Or take it on foreign vacation, get a new sim and local number and if you get robbed they get this phone. So oh well.

  • Constance Altenwerth

    Get a mid-intro level steel road bike (I suggest pre-owned if you're competent with basic tools), *a good helmet* and weather appropriate athletic cloths/bag, a GPS app for your phone and a quad lock to mount it to your stem, and romp. And stay out of the motorcycle lane. You'll be fine.

  • Hermann Smith

    [ram mount](https://www.amazon.com/Ram-RAM-B-149Z-UN7U-Handlebar-Mount-Universal/dp/B006X387ZS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481876697&sr=8-1&keywords=motorcycle+phone+ram+mount)

  • Bill Wilkinson

    I did something similar to my clicgear. I bought a CAW.CAR bike/motorcycle mount for my specific phone off Amazon (I have an iPhone 6S plus, but they have all brands). I just put it on the handlebar and away I go. It rains enough here that I didn't want to use up the umbrella mount.

  • Micheal Hartmann

    Good tips here. I also do Postmates on my motorcycle sometimes. The Sena headset is amazing. Phone mount(I use a ram mount with the x grip) is awesome too. But I tend to do as much as I can to stay away from soft drinks. Not always possible though

  • Oliver Howe

    My 360 is almost necessary when using GPS on my motorcycle. I know I can use a phone mount, but I do not trust those. I'd rather my 360 display directions instead of pulling out my phone at a stop light.

  • Vada Haley

    I hate the idea of any important button being on the back of a phone, I frequently use my phone while it is either laying flat on a table/desk or in a ram mount in my car or motorcycle.

  • Mariana Kulas

    What about modifying a [bike mount](https://ourgreatproducts.com/top-ten-best-motorcycle-cell-phone-mounts-reviews/)?

  • Nikolas Cremin

    I loved mine so much. It recently died in a motorcycle mount failure. 😢 R.I.P. Nexus 6 Best Phone Ever

  • Federico Mitchell

    I got cheap motorcycle phone holder from ebay, and I use the elastic tether on your RAM mount?

  • Benny Ledner

    Totally off topic but I would never trust a motorcycle phone mount

  • Anthony Durgan

    [Here]( Aduro U-GRIP PLUS Universal Bike, Motorcycle, Handlebar, Roll Bar Mount for all Smart Phones, Apple iPhone 6s / 6s Plus / 6 Plus / SE / 5 / 5S / 5C / 4 / 4S, Samsung Galaxy S3 / S4 / S5 / S6 / S7 / Edge / NOTE 2 / Note 3 / Note 4 / Note 5, Motorola Droid RAZR / MAXX, HTC EVO 4G, HTC One X, LG Revolution, GPS Holder (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V54CLNO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oi6myb0Q7V6RS) is the one that I've used on both my bikes. Highly under rated imo. Easy install. Durable. Sturdy. I have a Galaxy Note and it holds my phone at over highway speeds no problem. Love that it comes with the net to hold your phone for added security.

  • Shawn Stroman

    Motorcycle X-Grip Clamp Stand Holder, TurnRaise Holder Stand Mount Bracket w/ USB Charger Socket for iPhone 5 5s 6 6Plus/ Samsung Galaxy and Other Smartphones https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PTVKOA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Cg-wyb5T5H690

  • Russ Hermiston

    It weighs less and has 20 more horses. It's insanely powerful, almost too much for offroad (but some wrist control moderates that, or if you need it, there is an alternate engine map you can set to decrease power/throttle response). Also, and a big thing for me, it has ABS. The one time I've been down on the street, ABS would have saved me. Same with some of the accidents my brother and step brother have had. That right there, should it ever save my life, is worth the price tag. Now with that said, here's some things to consider... 1. It wasn't comfortable to stand up on until I raised my bars (fairly cheap mod, didn't require extending any cables or anything). I'm 5'11", just for reference. I used two things, the Scotts kit needed to get the steering damper in there, plus something like [these guys,](http://www.motosport.com/product?psreferrer=https%253A%252F%252Fwww.google.com%252F&pssource=true&segment=badger&key=Moose-Universal-Oversized-Bar-Mounts&cc=us&adpos=1o1&creative=93575775025&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&product_id=MOS-UBM-30MM&gclid=CIK7w8z3_NECFURcfgodzjkAgg) just to refine the height to my ideal. 2. Gas tank is in the rear, meaning it was a pain in the ass to figure out how to load it up while still having easy access to the gas tank. My final packing solution ended up with that blue bag covering the gas cap. When I stopped for gas, all I had to do was un-clip the bag on one side, shift it over, then I could fit the nozzle in and fill. Not too bad, but not really ideal. On the highway, my buddies bike needed gas every 80-100 miles, so we stopped about every hour while just slabbing north/south through central California. So I had to deal with that bag every hour. This really only matters when doing long trips, as it doesn't bother me in the day-to-day use of the bike, other than the fact that I have to get off to fill up, something I don't normally do on a bike with a tank up front. 3. If you're going to load it up heavy, you'll want to buy upgraded tank bolts, as there's just three bolts that hold the tank on, and the tank is actually also your sub frame for the entire rear end. More info on that [here.](http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/ktm-690-enduro-replacement-tank-bolts-%C2%96-complete-subframe-reinforcement-kit.954935/) I swapped them out preemptively, as I wanted to skip possibly breaking mine. If you do it yourself (easy job), it'll run you around 80-100 bucks. Not a deal breaker, but just something to consider. 4. I don't know how it compares to other bikes because I've only ever outfitted this bike like this, but the racks (sides and top) cost a decent amount, plus I wanted a steering stabilizer, and it required extra equipment to be able to mount. All in all, I spent probably another $1,500 on accessories to get it set up as you see here, and that doesn't include the $400 worth of baggage I already owned for my CBR. BUT, of course, mods/accessories/upgrades cost money for all bikes, so the question becomes, do you spend the 10k on the KTM, or 3k on the dr and then 3k on mods/accessories outfitting it to perfection? I still have a handful of little mods I want to do to my KTM to make it ideal for me, as I skipped some because I needed to cut corners so I could make the cost of the bike balance out. If you've got the money, I fucking love my KTM, but my buddy spent significantly less on his bike and we took the same trip together. No bike is ideal. If you've got endless money, you still wont have the perfect bike. You just can't get 70 hp out of a 250cc engine, nor can you whip a 650+cc engine around in the dirt like you could a 250. I love my KTM, and the ABS is a big kicker for me. If Honda had ABS on their XR650 (and was the same price as the current XR650), I probably would have gone Honda (I do love Honda) and spent the extra money on refining the bike just THAT much more to my idea of perfection. Again, both our bikes carried us on the trip just fine. Of course, I can pop wheelies like no bodies business on that thing... but who's competing xp Just remember that gear and accessories cost a lot of money to do right. Idk if you've got any gear from owning other bikes, but you're looking at 200-400 for a good helmet, same for a jacket, then you'll need good boots, perhaps some riding jeans/knee pads/riding pants (depending on the situation), gloves. High temp jacket and low temp jacket (depending on location and desire to ride in extreme temps). Saddle bags to go over those racks, perhaps a GPS.... you can go nuts and spend so much damn money on these things! Haha. I'd say probably $1000 on top of the bike to start riding it in proper gear. Then you can start looking at all the crazy awesome mods/accessories for you and the bike. GoPro? Sena? Can't recommend those enough, but that's more $$$$. Always more $$$$. Haha.

  • Demario Smith

    My Experience: I have a 2011 BMW 328i Xdrive 4 Door. I ordered my NAVDY in 2014. I finally, October 2016, received the unit. I have two issues with the unit that seem to be tied to the BMW. 1-My car is not supported due to the slope of the windshield. I contacted support and they said "At this time, the 2011 BMW 328i is listed as not compatible with Navdy. If I am remembering correctly, the space between the dashboard and the windshield is not too wide, making it difficult to have Navdy sit on the dashboard without hanging over." It would have been nice to know this a year or two ago. 2-My second issue is that the low mount "mat" does not stick to the dashboard. I contacted support about this and they responded "...it makes it especially worrisome to me that your Navdy doesn't have a good adhesion to your dashboard." Their solution is: 1-We understand that Navdy may be different from your expectations when it arrives, and that your vehicle may not be compatible with Navdy, so you'll have a 30 day evaluation period where you may return the product if you find it unsatisfactory. We'll be able to provide you with pre-paid shipping in this case due to the nature of your return. 2-Alternatively, if you'd like to keep Navdy, you're more than welcome to as this is your device to do with as you please. If you have a secondary vehicle to use Navdy in, we could check to see if we're compatible with that vehicle. 3- Option 3 really makes me chuckle."You can also shift Navdy off to the side and install this way, much more like a traditional GPS". Why would I want a HUD off to the side????? 4-I indicated that it would be nice if the brain trust at NAVDY could suggest a method of securing the unit. The response "At this time we don't have the bandwidth to create customized mounts, but as mentioned we are doing our best to make our mounting solution truly universal. We don't have a set date for a solution to be created and manufactured - we'll be sure to announce any mount updates via social media or our website." How about a flexible solution with adhesive? How about a mount that sticks?? Well, after waiting for 2 years, looks like I need to wait more.

  • Layne Swift

    I received my non explorer version two weeks ago. I am happy to pass along my experience: I have a 2011 BMW 328i Xdrive 4 Door. I ordered my NAVDY in 2014. I finally, October 2016, received the unit. I have two issues with the unit that seem to be tied to the BMW. 1-My car is not supported due to the slope of the windshield. I contacted support and they said "At this time, the 2011 BMW 328i is listed as not compatible with Navdy. If I am remembering correctly, the space between the dashboard and the windshield is not too wide, making it difficult to have Navdy sit on the dashboard without hanging over." 2-My second issue is that the low mount "mat" does not stick to the dashboard. I contacted support about this and they responded "...it makes it especially worrisome to me that your Navdy doesn't have a good adhesion to your dashboard." Their solution is: 1-We understand that Navdy may be different from your expectations when it arrives, and that your vehicle may not be compatible with Navdy, so you'll have a 30 day evaluation period where you may return the product if you find it unsatisfactory. We'll be able to provide you with pre-paid shipping in this case due to the nature of your return. 2-Alternatively, if you'd like to keep Navdy, you're more than welcome to as this is your device to do with as you please. If you have a secondary vehicle to use Navdy in, we could check to see if we're compatible with that vehicle. 3- Option 3 really makes me chuckle."You can also shift Navdy off to the side and install this way, much more like a traditional GPS". Why would I want a HUD off to the side????? 4-I indicated that it would be nice if the brain trust at NAVDY could suggest a method of securing the unit. The response "At this time we don't have the bandwidth to create customized mounts, but as mentioned we are doing our best to make our mounting solution truly universal. We don't have a set date for a solution to be created and manufactured - we'll be sure to announce any mount updates via social media or our website." How about a flexible solution with adhesive? How about a mount that sticks?? Well, after waiting for 2 years, looks like I need to wait more.

  • Raphaelle Stoltenberg

    Great question. I use: Charger: [Aukey CC-T8](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B2BMIMS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). It has worked fairly well. Charging is slow while I'm using GPS and Bluetooth, but it works. I use the USB-A to -C cable that Google gave out with their Fi Lego set last fall. Mount: [WizGear Extra Slim Universal](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F7KNJDM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) magnetic mount. I have it stuck at an angle on the top of my gear shift. Puts the phone in a convenient spot, and is out of the way when not in use. I put the larger of the included plates under the back cover of the phone, and it mounts great to this (and other) magnetic mounts, and does not interfere with any antennas. Case: [RhinoShield CrashGuard](https://www.amazon.com/RhinoShield-CrashGuard-Absorption-Durability-Protection/dp/B01BF7NZ0I/). I'm satisfied with the protection, and this doesn't interfere with the metal plate & magnet. (Obviously with a standard case, you can put the metal plate between the case and the phone.) This was a great question. I'm looking forward to seeing other's responses.

  • Felipe Wolff

    This is the stuff that I just realized is with me, every time I go anywhere, just not on my person (minus the 4x4 recovery gear and tools not shown:) From left to right, top to bottom: 1) Chump change 2) Rarely used cards (Costco/Movie/Library etc.) 3) Razor Knife and Nail file. 4) Streamlight 14000 flashlight. 5) Tiny Scissors (beard management) and Leatherman Rebar. 6) Complete Leatherman accessory kit. 7) Alpine Stereo removable face plate case. 8) Box of business cards/spare AA Batteries. 9) Foursevens Mini (CR123 flashlight) 10) Spare charging cable for Droid. (I'm an iPhone person.) 11) Fire Starter kit. 12) Coast HX5 flashlight (AA) 13) 6 Spare CR123 Batteries in a SureFire waterproof case. 14) Misc. Waterproof box with lanyards, cell ports, bits and pieces and another flashlight. (LOL) It's a "LIL Larry" AA light. (Impulse buy from today.) 15) Keys with trailer, lock, gas cap, etc. keys on it. --------------------------------------------------------------- I took some more pics of inside the cab. Here are the accessories that go along with any Leatherman tool. A must have in my opinion: http://i.imgur.com/soBFtio.jpg Here is my phone cradle from Ram Mounts. It is the Universal "X" model, but I also have a dedicated Iphone 6 mount that is a bit more secure for off roading. This "X" thingy will mount a tablet or GPS, so it's good to have: http://i.imgur.com/0OQfitP.jpg I also have a full time GPS on the left that I use as a speedometer. (Cheaper than having the computer reset for larger tires.) http://i.imgur.com/hnQ10Wx.jpg

  • Jeffrey Lynch

    I took some more pics of inside the cab. Here are the accessories that go along with any Leatherman tool. A must have in my opinion: http://i.imgur.com/soBFtio.jpg Here is my phone cradle from Ram Mounts. It is the Universal "X" model, but I also have a dedicated Iphone 6 mount that is a bit more secure for off roading. This "X" thingy will mount a tablet or GPS, so it's good to have: http://i.imgur.com/0OQfitP.jpg I also have a full time GPS on the left that I use as a speedometer. (Cheaper than having the computer reset for larger tires.) http://i.imgur.com/hnQ10Wx.jpg

  • Sharon Daniel

    [I highly recommend this one](Universal Magnetic Car Dashboard Mobile Mount Car Stand Phone Holder Sticky Car Kit Magnet For GPS Holder Mount Smartphone http://s.aliexpress.com/6JFB7zIv). I've used a lot of car mounts, and this is the most convenient. Also the mangnet and the suction cup are way more powerful than you think.

  • Nicola Feil

    Yes! One more thought --consider simple things like cell phones. Do you have cell phones? If so, who's name is the bill in? When we did ours the sales guy just happened to put her name in first (as account holder) and mine second. When we split, she not only was able to be mean and put parental controls on my phone (long, long time ago before unlimited plans) but I had to go to court and have the judge order that she release my phone number back to me! One more 'one more thought': If divorce happens as part of this, something called Automatic Orders usually takes effect (check your local jurisdiction, I'm not a lawyer and only know enough to be dangerous). That means essentially "what was must continue", meaning if you were writing the mortgage check you **MUST** keep writing the mortgage check. It also means she can't clean out the bank accounts or come into the home when you aren't there and go on a shopping spree. I wrote the next paragraph before I wrote this but you REALLY need to understand that she may not file and because of CoS, she may try and F you financially in every way possible (to divert your $ to the Church). For all I know they probably have "Disconnection Counselors" who are basically divorce lawyers and teach them all the dirty tricks. Best thing that could happen is that she files for divorce. If she does not file for divorce, then in the eyes of the law, her draining accounts, running up bills, not paying or generally F'ing you financially would be no different than the argument I had with my wife when I came home one day with a $9k Ducati (motorcycle) three days before her contract was up and we were pretty sure she was going to be out of work striking... Not good but only the wrath of the wife, not the law. Remember: begging for forgiveness is sometimes easier than asking permission --she didn't strike and I kept the bike. I am truly sorry for your loss but seriously, if they are labeling you an SP you need to wrap your head around the fact that you are probably very hurt and heartbroken but she's going to come out of her corner with the gloves on, ready to go. Don't get caught on your heels or it'll be all over for you. And please for the love of God (or whatever you believe)... **talk to a lawyer**

  • Elinor Goodwin

    I got a bike handlebar mount [like this one](https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Bicycle-Handlebar-Motorcycle-BlackBerry/dp/B015C03SI8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1480784537&sr=8-3&keywords=bike+cellphone) and replaced the batteries in an old cell phone. Total cost about $20. I installed the daily roads voyager app that records successive 2 minute clips until the storage you allot is full, then it overwrites the oldest one. If you touch the screen, it saves that clip and doesn't overwrite it. If it detects impact, it saves the last two clips. Honestly, it recorded as well as anything I've seen online, even at night. The only problem was the mounting and unmounting of the handlebar mount, which added an extra minute. That, coupled with the fact that in a year, I never really recorded anything exciting, led me to stop using it, as it just wasn't worth the trouble. Three years later, I still have had nothing exciting happen. Invest the money into better visibility gear. I use a high viz vest for $6, and enough lights you can see from Mars: complete overkill. I even have superbright red lights I use in the daytime. Then I spent a fair amount of time learning to read driver cues and figuring out how to avoid the typical dangerous situations that lead to most accidents. Example: as you approach an intersection as you're passing the line of stopped cars that is just restarting, pick one car you'll never be able to get ahead of before the intersection and stay just behind them. You never get right hooked. At every intersection, I treat a green light like a 4 way stop sign: look both ways and assume someone will run the light. If you do all that, nothing exciting ever happens.

  • Davon Labadie

    You have some options: For the smoothest video possible you'll want to get a gimbal like [this](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&sku=1276287&gclid=CLXR2oO_jNICFRBxfgodm_AO4w&Q=&ap=y&m=Y&c3api=1876%2C92051678882%2C&is=REG&A=details) and a mount like [this](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&sku=1188626&gclid=CJqLueW8jNICFYlbfgodCqgDSQ&is=REG&ap=y&m=Y&c3api=1876%2C92051677682%2C&Q=&A=details) to attach it to your bike. It'll stabilize your footage and surely get you the shots you're looking for, because it automatically combats shakes, jitters, and vibrations. That's very expensive though and you may be able to get away with a shock absorber like [this.](http://www.cyclingdeal.com.au/buy/bike-bicycle-handlebar-mount-cell-phone-video-gps/ODIN-AB1) but I've never used one of these, so I can't tell you it'll be smooth enough for the type of riding you do. You could also zip-tie one of [these](http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/151492685930?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true) to your bars, and mount your phone to [this](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&sku=1135090&gclid=CN6PzbfEjNICFQ90fgod930GfQ&Q=&ap=y&m=Y&c3api=1876%2C92051677682%2C&is=REG&A=details) adapter to connect your phone to the part. I use one of these pads with my gopro on my drone's gimbal and it combats all of the vibration from the rotors. All things considered, you also may be able to make your own shock absorber similar to [this](http://www.flitetest.com/articles/gopro-vibration-eliminator) for your phone, but it would look very strange and might not be worth the hassle. Stabilizing footage on an app is an option too, but take it from me, it's never going to be as smooth as you want it without massive cropping occurring.

  • Zetta Pfannerstill

    i'm also considering getting one of these: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Universal-Motorcycle-Bike-Bicycle-MTB-Handlebar-Mount-Holder-for-Cell-Phone-GPS/131926654870 do you think with the bigger battery attached, it would still fit into the mount?

  • Tommie Heidenreich

    I use a handlebar cellphone bag in the cold months, and a RAM Mount Cell Phone holder the rest of the time. A fellow cyclist on reddit suggested the RAM Mount option. I was skeptical that I'd hit some good sized pothole and the phone would go flying, but it's really solid so far. I discovered that handlebar cellphone bags don't cut it in hot weather and will overheat the phone, but they are great for cold weather and offer enough storage for me to slip an iPod or a battery bank in. So... Ram Mount: http://www.rammount.com/part/RAM-HOL-UN7-400U I have to locate the model bag I purchased. It's similar to this one, but it has a slot so to thread a minijack on the underside. https://www.amazon.com/ROSWHEEL-Bicycle-Cycling-Handlebar-Cellphone/dp/B01KLY8WAE/

  • Gene Lockman

    [my phone is bigger and this fits it](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-Bicycle-MTB-Bike-Handlebar-Mount-Holder-Universal-For-Cell-Phone-GPS-/391377632641?var=&hash=item5b1fecbd81:m:m14caqVSGYw44QlH99soidA)

  • Hilbert Hammes

    Best one: Oenbopo Motorcycle Bicycle MTB Bike Handlebar Mount Holder Universal For Cell Phone GPS, iPhone 7/7 Plus iPhone 6 6S 6plus SE 5s 5c Samsung Galaxy Note 5 4 3 S7 S6 S5 S4 HTC LG https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013OZ6J5C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ckQCybB67KFFN

  • Ethan Wilkinson

    The car is a 2017 Ford Escape (FWD) with the 301A Tech Package, I decided against the AWD because you get worse MPG, more maintenance, more weight and more things to break. I also don't think I would ever really benefit from it, especially since its not a "Real" AWD system, its FWD most of the time anyway I chose it in "Magnetic" because it looks like everyone else's car. I don't want to stand out, and I also like the color. In the first couple of pictures you can see my 2 x Cargo organizers, these things are great when you go out and buy groceries (Or anything!). Inside I keep a small Harbor Freight bag which contains my work tools (A mountain of flash drives, external drivers, screwdrivers, SATA adapters etc) Next you can see where I keep the vast majority of VEDC items, around the spare wheel in the spare wheel well. On the very top you can see a spare floor mat, this is one that the car came with, but I replaced them all with All Weather floor mats. I put it in here as it comes in VERY handy when you need to kneel down on the floor to change a tire, or whatever. Next, you can see an image without the floor mat, here is a list of everything in there. Everything might not be visible, but I really don't want to take it all out: * Emergency Cash ($100 in 20's + Quaters) * Travel Size Deodorant * Tire Plug Kit (Tools + Glue + Plugs) * 5.11 Nylon Belt - This could be used for anything, as well as a spare belt * 2 x AA Eneloops + CR2032 * 2 x LG 2600mAh 18650's * 12 x AAA Amazon Basic * Bottled Water x 6 (BPA Free, not that it matters) * Spare Tire (Maxxis T165/70R17) - I really wish this was a full sized spare, but there is no space * Stock Scissor Jack * Stock Lug Wrench - Actually really good quality weirdly * Fuel Funnel - The capless filler means you need a special funnel for some fuel cans * Wheel Lock Key and Spare Lug Nuts * Spare Fuses (2 x Every amp rating) * 3 x LED Flares (Amazon Basic AAA Installed) - I have had these for 3 years, with no battery drain * Electrical Tape * Jumper Cables * Lithium Jump Starter - NOCO Genius Boost GB20 - Despite AVE's (Now deleted!) video bashing these, they are really still the best, and it will start my car with no problems, along with the 6+ that I have helped people out with. See here and [here](http://www.mjlorton.com/portable-car-battery-jump-starter-review-tests-all-the-results/) comparison of all of them * Viair 70P Portable Compressor - I recently got this, and its FANTASTIC. I have no problems with power since all of my outlets are rated for 20A * Stanley 7-1/2-Inch Wonder Bar II Pry Bar * Assorted Zip Ties * 25ft Camo Paracord 750lb Rated * 50ft Orange Paracord 750lb Rated * Duct Tape (Black) * Adjustable Wrench * Slime Tire Sealant (If all else fails) * Yellow Cleaning Cloth * Fleece Blanket (Large) * Food/Snacks (5 x Clif Bars) * Spare Carpet Floor Mat * Kobalt Multi-bit Screwdriver * Tape Mesure * Spare socks Then there is a picture of my wheel, another reason I chose the "Titanium" model and did not get the 19" wheel upgrade, was because these tires are really great, while being affordable. The SE Model comes with some crappy "Eco" tires that have terrible stopping distances. On the wheels are also a set of Gorilla wheel locks, which in my opinion are the best as the outside spins freely, making it extra hard for someone to take off without the key. Then you can see another thing the Titanium model has, which is a 120v outlet. Great for plugging in laptops, or anything under 150w (Kinda sucks its so low!) Then the drivers seat rear storage pocket, this contains a pouch with a "The Friendly Swede" Microfiber towel, as well as a plastic poncho. As well as some bug spray, and sun screen. These are completely hidden from view as they go so far into the seat pouch Next, in the passenger seat is the same pouch with the same towel and poncho, and there is also a high vis vest. So many people keep these in the trunk, where you would have to walk to without being seen! Next is my driver side door storage, where I keep a hat. Under the infotainment, is a 2amp USB port which also handles Apple CarPlay/Android Auto (I use Carplay) and I have a really good quality Anker PowerLine 3ft Lightning cable as well as a microfiber cleaning cloth. Then in the cup holder, I usually throw my sunglasses. There is a dedicated sunglass storage thing in the ceiling, but this is more convenient In Level 1 of the center console, I have a Leatherman Z-Rex which is a Window Breaker, and Seatbelt cutter. As well as some Lip Balm In Level 2 (The rest) I have tons of stuff, see list: * 6ft Anker Lightning cable in the USB port thats in there (Also CarPlay etc) - There is also an unused power port * ANKER 20,000mAh Power bank * Apple Lightning Cable * Short Micro USB Cable * Micro USB Cables (2 x Anker 6ft) * Multi-Output USB Cable * USB Charger (Anker 24W Dual USB Wall Charger) * Spare Dual USB Charger (Car Power) * Spare Sunglasses in Case * Monster MP OTG400 BK Outlets To Go Power Strip * Lens Cleaning Wipes * Alcohol Hand Sanitizer * Travel Tissues * Wet Ones Singles * Nitecore i2 Smart charger with car adapter + AC Then, in the glovebox I have the following: * Mechanix Gloves * Warm Gloves (Touch Screen Compatible) * Blue Cleaning Cloth * First Aid Kit (List below - The case is some old one I found) * Glovebox Kit (See below) * Energizer LED Headlamp (Eneloops Installed) The First Aid Kit Contains: * SAK Classic W/Tweezers * Triangular Bandage * ORS * Super Glue * Q-Tips * Safety Pins * Plasters * After Bite * Antiseptic Towelette * Iodine Prep Pad * Alcohol Prep Pad * Bandage * Tweezers * Sterile Non-Wovem Sponges * Cloth Tape * Aspirin / Inuprofen * Antihistamine * Triple Antibiotic Ointment * Burn Gel * Hydrocortisone * Mouth Sore Gel * Sterile Non-Woven Sponges * Instant Cold Packs And in the next picture is my Glovebox kit, which i am working on filling some more (Suggestions?): * Maxpedition EDC Case * Insurance/Registration Documents * Olight Baton S2 (LG LP 18650 Installed) * Pen + Notepad * Black Sharpie * 2 x Ziplock bags (Phone sized- Good for when its raining hard) * Leatherman Wave (Stainless Steel) * Leatherman Bit Kit * Retractable Magnet * Handkerchief  * 4 x Ear plugs * MicroSD to SD adapter * Micro USB to Mini USB Adapter * Micro USB to Apple 30pin Adapter * AAA Membership Card * Microfiber Cleaning Cloth * Emergency Whistle Then you can see some pictures of my Dash Cam, its a Hard Wired A118-C with a 64GB MicroSD Card, and its great. also in view is my TXTag for going through tolls Some other things I didn't picture: * Ford All Weather Floormats - These are great and say "Escape" on them, so they match the car really well * Blind Spot Mirrors - Yes, I know you can adjust your mirrors. These really do help out, along with the cars BLIS system And here are things I don't have, and why: * Fire Extinguisher - I own one, but I can't find a good place to mount it :( * Fuel can - I just pay attention to my fuel gauge, and plus all gas stations sell them. So why do I need to carry one around? * A better jack - The stock one works just fine and is perfectly safe (Now argue!) * Gun/Rifle - I EDC a Glock 19 or a 43 all of the time, so that covers it. I would LOVE to have an SBR mounted in there somehow like [this](http://imgur.com/a/m1Sfl), but I don't know how * Tow Trap - The car has no tow points, so I would wait for professional recovery before screwing up my new car because I don't know what I am doing

  • Amelie O'Hara

    Part2: **Country specific chargers?** (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/243372678/nolo-affordable-motion-tracking-for-mobile-and-ste/comments?cursor=15826077#comment-15826076) As for the charger, we'll provide the two-pin wall charger with an adjustable range of voltage (I know it works for China and the U.S. for sure). The reason we want to provide the charger is that the wall charge is with three USB ports, so that users could charge the base station and two controllers at the same time. **Batteries built-in or replaceable?** (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/243372678/nolo-affordable-motion-tracking-for-mobile-and-ste/comments?cursor=15799910#comment-15799909) The lithium batteries are built in and rechargeable. **USB-Connectivity "USB Cable (25cm) for mobile VR"?** USB-C cable w/ a converter to make it Micro USB. [this also means that only the 2016 Version of the Gear VR Headset will work with this in mobile mode!!] **Gear VR 2015?** (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/243372678/nolo-affordable-motion-tracking-for-mobile-and-ste/comments?cursor=15813536#comment-15813535) For the SteamVR function, we are trying to make the streaming and data transfer wireless (wireless performance will depend on the wi-fi connection a lot though), so a older GearVR would be fine. However, for the Mobile VR function, the 2015 version without data port wouldn't work. (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/243372678/nolo-affordable-motion-tracking-for-mobile-and-ste/comments?cursor=15816830#comment-15816829) For the Mobile VR function, the 2015 version with only a charging port wouldn't work. We actually offer a perk to include a newest GearVR with data port at a discounted price if you'd like to upgrade :) **Setup? Game Support?** (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/243372678/nolo-affordable-motion-tracking-for-mobile-and-ste/comments?cursor=15802501#comment-15802500) For mobile games, the set up is easy. 1) Place the base station on a table or bookshelf in front of you 2) Fix the headset marker on your headset and put your phone into your headset 3) Use the USB cable to connect the headset marker and the smartphone, or the headset in the case of Gear VR. It is plug and play! We will offer several games we built for free. We are also in talks with many developers and in the process of making their games compatible. **SteamVR - how does it communicyte?** (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/243372678/nolo-affordable-motion-tracking-for-mobile-and-ste/comments?cursor=15802711#comment-15802710) NOLO does communicate directly with SteamVR to send in the tracking data. RiftCat & TrinusVR does the streaming of the PC screen to the smartphone. (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/243372678/nolo-affordable-motion-tracking-for-mobile-and-ste/comments?cursor=15813605#comment-15813604) For PC VRs like Pimax and OSVR, RiftCat/VRidge is not necessary. We are adding a driver to Steam to send tracking data. **Headset Marker Mounts?** (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/243372678/nolo-affordable-motion-tracking-for-mobile-and-ste/comments?cursor=15806651#comment-15806650) We'll provide two different kinds of mounts to fix the headset tracker :) (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/243372678/nolo-affordable-motion-tracking-for-mobile-and-ste/comments?cursor=15808168#comment-15808167) We could definitely make the 3D model for the headset marker available for custom made mounts. (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/243372678/nolo-affordable-motion-tracking-for-mobile-and-ste/comments?cursor=15813557#comment-15813556) We provide two kinds of headset marker mounts (one for the top of the headset, one for the front of the headset). Users could stick the mount to the headset, and it will be easy to fix headset markers for uses later. **Controller Pairing? Pairing with base station or head marker?** (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/243372678/nolo-affordable-motion-tracking-for-mobile-and-ste/comments?cursor=15808031#comment-15808030) There's a tracking sensor on two controllers and the headset marker. Line of sight between the tracking sensor and the base station is required. All the calculation is done onboard of the sensor. The tracking data is transmitted to the headset marker, and transport to PC/Phone. So long story short, the headset marker is required for transmission of data. The controllers are pre-paired, but you could pair it manually when you get a replacement. **Controller "Grip" Button?** (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/243372678/nolo-affordable-motion-tracking-for-mobile-and-ste/comments?cursor=15798266#comment-15798265) The NOLO product we are shipping out will have the grip button :) No worries! **Wrist Straps on Controllers?** (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/243372678/nolo-affordable-motion-tracking-for-mobile-and-ste/comments?cursor=15808221#comment-15808220) Wrist straps is a good idea! Thank you for your suggestion! I'll relay this feedback to our dev team :) **Size / Shape of (headset) marker?** (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/243372678/nolo-affordable-motion-tracking-for-mobile-and-ste/comments?cursor=15828734#comment-15828733) We actually will make the headset marker smaller, and smaller mount at the same time. As for the shape of the sensor, it is designed this way to avoid occlusion issue as much as possible. We are researching on methods to make it smaller and have a pretty good idea, but that's still in the R&D stage and won't be implemented in this generation of product. **Final Design?** (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/243372678/nolo-affordable-motion-tracking-for-mobile-and-ste/comments?cursor=15813582#comment-15813581) The design will be pretty much the same except the grip button, but we'll def keep updating backers on every step of the progress. **SDK available at hardware launch?** (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/243372678/nolo-affordable-motion-tracking-for-mobile-and-ste/comments?cursor=15818811#comment-15818810) YES! [in reply to: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/243372678/nolo-affordable-motion-tracking-for-mobile-and-ste/comments?cursor=15818762#comment-15818761] **Latency?** (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/243372678/nolo-affordable-motion-tracking-for-mobile-and-ste/comments?cursor=15828707#comment-15828706) Our tracking latency is <20ms, and RiftCat's streaming latency is 1-2 frames behind. Our system does have a bit more latency than the PC VR system like HTC Vive, but it does provide a decent experience for its affordable price. You are welcome to check out a simple latency test we made: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MpVlRK0JYrE **Shipping costs?** (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/243372678/nolo-affordable-motion-tracking-for-mobile-and-ste/comments?cursor=15813557#comment-15813556) We'll try our best to cut this cost as well once we have a detailed number of units to ship to each part of the world :) **Riftcat/VRidge License Add-On Pledge?** (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/243372678/nolo-affordable-motion-tracking-for-mobile-and-ste/comments?cursor=15799689#comment-15799688) We'll provide an option to add on RiftCat/VRidge at $10 either on KS or later on our website. Will keep you posted. (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/243372678/nolo-affordable-motion-tracking-for-mobile-and-ste/comments?cursor=15808207#comment-15808206) If you want to get RiftCat/VRidge outside of the already made perk, you could add $10 and email us to let us know. **Riftcat/V>Ridge after the end of Sideload?** (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/243372678/nolo-affordable-motion-tracking-for-mobile-and-ste/comments?cursor=15817551#comment-15817550) Just today, RiftCat/VRidge informed me that they will have their own version of SideloadVR released soon, so that it works with GearVR without installing any extra app.

  • Duncan Ryan

    Here's some advice.... Gear up. ATGATT. You need: helmet, jacket, gloves, pants, boots. Boots if you have good leather boots those can be okay, and you can get Kevlar-lined jeans / other pants, but don't skimp on the jacket, helmet or gloves. They should be designed for motorcycling- motorcycle gloves will have a skid plate in the areas where you are most likely to hit (knuckles/outer palm). A few areas of the hand don't really grow back, GET GOOD GLOVES. Also your jacket should have a bit of armor- shoulder/elbow/spine. I suggest bright, highly visible colors. You only have one body, and if you fuck it up it may not be fixable. Don't skimp on the gear. Dress for the slide, not for the ride. Helmets vary widely in price. Amazon will sell you a helmet for $60 from some random import company. RevZilla will sell you a high end Schuberth for $900. Both will protect your head fairly well (as long as they're DOT-approved), the difference is comfort. The $60 helmet will make more wind noise at speed, the visor will fog more easily, you'll get less field of view, and the helmet will be heavier. Skip the $60 Amazon helmet, go for the $200ish helmet. You need ear plugs. Even with a good helmet, riding is FUCKING LOUD. Don't fuck up your hearing- it doesn't grow back. Foam ear plugs are the best bet, because (unlike the reusable plastic ones) they won't stick out and touch the inside of the helmet (transferring noise from the helmet straight into your ear). A bike has to fit you. That may sound strange (since cars have adjustable seats) but a bike has to fit the size and shape of your body. If it doesn't fit comfortably you won't enjoy it much. If you feel uncomfortable sitting on a bike, don't buy it. Another fit issue is seat height- for your first bike you should be able to put both feet on the ground while sitting on the bike. Let's talk bike selection. Don't buy your 'dream bike' as your first bike- your needs will be different for your first 500-1000 miles as you learn than they will be afterward. The 1000cc race replica sport bike probably looks cool, but it'll be a shitty bike to learn on- the powerful engine will be harder to control, the forward seating position will be less comfortable, and the bike will be overall less forgiving of errors. I suggest start with something in the 300-500 range. Lots of guys get started on Ninja 300's and CB300's and the like, don't think of this as a baby bike. There's lots of fun to be had with a small engine. I recommend get a bike with ABS. This narrows your selection but according to the research I've seen it reduces your likelihood of crashing by around 30%. That's worth the extra few hundred bucks IMHO. Definitely get frame sliders for your first bike. That way if you drop it, you won't be pouring oil out of the engine. Before you buy anything, sit on several bikes of different types. On insurance- you need insurance, this is not optional. It's illegal to ride a motor vehicle without insurance. For a new rider, the more 'sporty' or 'racey' of a bike you get, the more it will cost. Engine class is not always a reliable indicator of insurance price. For example you'll probably pay more to ensure a GSXR-600 (a very sporty bike) than you will to ensure a NC700X (a fancy new-tech Honda adventure bike with a low-revving engine). **Check insurance prices FOR THAT MAKE/MODEL before you buy a bike.** You don't want to buy a bike only to find it'll cost $150/mo to ensure. For a basic 300-500cc non-racey bike, you'll probably pay somewhere between $30-$100/mo, depending on what bike and insurance options you get. For example, you can get just liability insurance (bare minimum) or also comprehensive coverage (which also protects against theft etc). I suggest try Progressive, they don't suck as bad as the others. You can easily make a quote on their website and try different bikes/options to see the cost difference. If your driving record is pretty clean, and you don't get a 'racing' bike, you should get a fairly low price. ----- A few more miscellaneous tips... Keep in your bike's under seat compartment a pair of rubber gloves, spare earplugs, and a small tiny bottle of water. Always good things to have. Also, never ride without a cell phone. Don't put a cell phone mount on your bike for the first 1000mi or so. Avoid distractions- on a bike a distraction can kill you. Wear a camera. There's tons of ways to attach a GoPro to yourself or your helmet, and there's also lots of cameras specifically designed for biking- Sena and Ghost are two that come to mind. Sena has a kit that's a camera and an intercom and a bluetooth cell phone connection all in one. I suggest record all your rides if you can- it's a useful training tool. When you get on two wheels, you're in a sort of club. Wherever you go, if you find another rider you have something in common to talk about. Also, other bikers will wave to you. Wave back or nod if you can, but don't let it distract you from the road. ----- **Finally, the most important tip- if you listen to nothing else I say, listen to this:** **Always assume that you are invisible, that no car driver sees you, and ride accordingly.** Never assume someone sees you because they probably don't. Always assume every other driver is going to do the most dangerous, least predictable, most asshole-ish thing. When drivers already aren't paying much attention, they are even less likely to see the small motorcycle. Stay alert to your surroundings. Watch the 'body language' of other cars- IE if a car starts inching toward your lane, that might mean the driver is going to switch lanes, even though he's not signalling. **Car drivers are terrible in a way you don't truly appreciate until you get on a bike.** People are distracted, playing with their mobile phones, playing with their nav, focusing on passengers, etc etc. Once these people have the power to kill you by accident, you notice their antics a lot more. I can absolutely say that learning to ride has made me a better, more careful driver. ------- Anyway I hope that helps! Please feel free to ask if you have any questions... Welcome to the club :)

  • Jeff Jacobson

    [Leather loop](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/42MM-38MM-Original-Leather-Loop-Watch-Band-for-Apple-Watch-Strap/32409313902.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.1ls1sB) which is one of my favorites because the magnets are amazing and it is extremely comfy to wear. [Regular leather strap](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/High-Quality-Brown-Color-Leather-38-42MM-Width-Apple-Watch-Strap-Band-For-Apple-Watches/32751947469.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.1ls1sB) that I just got yesterday. Very good looking and quality feels great. Have to be used a bit before it softens just like other leather products. [Sports band copy](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2016-September-New-Colors-Ocean-Blue-Cocoa-Silicone-Sport-Band-for-Apple-Watch-Series-1-and/32737604855.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.1ls1sB), very cheap. Haven't used it too much, just bought it to compare with the original. It's way more matte but it is basically the same to wear. [Milanese loop copy](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Luxury-Milanese-Loop-strap-Link-Bracelet-Stainless-Steel-Band-Adjustable-Closure-for-Apple-watch-42mm-38mm/32668763117.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.1ls1sB), I got this in black and I just ordered one in silver and one in gold. Cheap and good quality, so why not? I'm currently also waiting for [this](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Smart-Watchband-For-Apple-Iwatch-38mm-Dial-Quality-Genuine-Leather-Strap-With-Adapter-Double-needle-buckle/32739319600.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.1ls1sB) leather strap from the same store as the one higher up in this comment. It looks like it's a bit slimmer than the other one. Aaaaand, since I'm already sharing stuff I've bought on AliExpress, [this](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/iVAPO-Charging-Dock-For-Apple-Watch-Stand-For-iPhone-5s-6-6s-7-Plus-Aluminum-Charger/32631614199.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.1ls1sB) docking station and [this](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Luxury-Leather-Phone-Case-For-Apple-iPhone-7-7Plus-Back-Cover-Fashion-Card-Holder-Phone-Shell/32736006725.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.1ls1sB) wallet case is some of my best purchases. Really recommend it. I especially like the fact that you mount your own charging cables in the dock since I'm not a fan of buying chargers or other electronics from AliExpress, mainly because of higher chance of failure and fire or something. Hope you find something you like here :)

  • Danielle Schaefer

    Dear Santa :D I hope your heart is still ok! You should help your elves make toys, the coal miner elves with shaping coal into bricks, and you should also remember to feed your reindeers, especially before Christmas! :O I heard Rudolph's been complaining each year that your sled is getting heavier, probably because you have so much stuff in your gift sack or you have too much food in your tummy :O I know Mrs. Claus said she'll love you always, but wouldn't she be happier if you became a fitter Santa, with abs instead of flabs? :D She'll be fan-girling all over you and she might give you a "special treat" after you return from delivering gifts and coal to the people of the world :D Hey Santa, how many people are getting bricks of coal in their stockings this year? Lots of people have been bad! It all began with Harambe and it's like people from all over the world went insane and said "Fark this world!" and they just did whatever they wanted to do, even if they stepped on other people's toes! Maybe we'll have so much coal we could start a hippie mountain bonfire to make the world peaceful again while cooking barbeque chicken and burgers (and veggies for the vegetarians)? Hey Santa, just a suggestion. Instead of putting coal in stockings, why not put it on the face of the naughty people while they're asleep? That would be totall hilarious and more "in your face" :D Maybe they'll get the message that they should be kinder when they wake up! Hey Santa, you know mom always said I could wish anything from you! But anyway for some reason, there's this mystical force that keeps whispering in my ear that I shouldn't abuse your kindness, and so I'll limit my Christmas wish to something cheap :D Something I want is the DC Comics Multiverse Supergirl Figure :D It is based on the Supergirl TV show starring Melissa Benoist! I have a crush on Melissa Benoist, so even if her little toy version looks more like a skinny female Jay Leno, it would still be fun to have her here with me :D Something I need is a BLISS - M-Size Octopus Style Portable Flexible Tripod Stand Holder for iPhone DSLR Camera Mobile Cell Phone, Bendable Adjustable Mini Webcam Mount - Black & White :O Holy crap Santa, it has such a long name, not my fault! That octopus stand will be useful whenever I have to take pictures of toys! It'll definitely help in stop motion videos :D I have shaky hands, so this octopus stand will definitely help take better pictures and videos of toys :D Something to wear is a smile, because no matter what piece of clothing you wear, it's useless if you're not feeling happy :D Something to read is a person's heart, because only by understanding someone's emotions then will you be able to make them happy and become friends :D Thank you very much Santa for another year, it might be ending soon but for more there will be to cheer :D

  • Candelario Flatley

    Eu ando com um [gamepad-chaveiro](https://pt.aliexpress.com/store/product/Mini-Portable-8Bitdo-ZERO-Bluetooth-Gamepad-Wireless-Game-Controller-Shutter-For-Android-iOS-Mac-Windows-OS/921255_32584171675.html) no meu molho de chaves, e mantenho um [stand de celular](https://pt.aliexpress.com/item/Lot-5PCS-Portable-Card-Foldable-Cell-Phone-Stand-Holder-Headset-Winding-Device/32691216296.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1_116_10065_117_10068_114_115_113_10084_10083_10080_10082_10081_10060_10061_10062_10056_10055_10037_10054_10059_10032_10099_10078_10079_10077_426_10103_10073_10102_10096_10052_10050_10051,searchweb201603_8&btsid=9756edb8-1a63-48e2-98d5-4fbc341286df) com formato de cartão de crédito na minha carteira. Fora isso, se eu vou, por exemplo, viajar em um ônibus, daí eu pego um dos meus controles BT com apoio embutido. Eu uso muito um [Moga Pro](https://pt.aliexpress.com/item/2016-MOGA-PRO-POWER-Wireless-Bluetooth-Game-Controller-Gamepad-Joystick-with-Stretch-Bracket-for-Android-System/32740494656.html) porque ele tem uma bateria embutida que serve pra carregar o celular enquanto joga, ou uso um controle de PS3 com um [clip](https://pt.aliexpress.com/item/SmartPhone-Clamp-Mount-Adjustable-Bracket-for-Sony-Playstation-3-PS3-Game-joypad-Controller-iphone-Samsung-Android/32521641069.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1_116_10065_117_10068_114_115_113_10084_10083_10080_10082_10081_10060_10061_10062_10056_10055_10037_10054_10059_10032_10099_10078_10079_10077_426_10103_10073_10102_10096_10052_10050_10051,searchweb201603_8&btsid=e37dfc07-fb8c-4d9a-8f86-d46bfafbbc9e) pra segurar o celular. Mas no touch dá pra jogar alguns jogos. Jogo em turnos, por exemplo, é tranquilo. Tem muito jogo de DS no Drastic que dá pra jogar legal já que os jogos são feitos pra touchscreen mesmo, especialmente se você tem um Galaxy Note.

  • Alia Walter

    What is the driving force behind your desire for a simplehuman mirror vs. something like a Conair or Ott-lite? Here are some cons: the latest and greatest 8" Sensor Mirror Pro doesn't have the same height adjustments as the original, but the original 8" Sensor Mirror only has one level of magnification and the motion sensor is overly sensitive/not adjustable so it does go on and off easily (that was my biggest issue with the originals). If you are getting any of the round mirrors, they are all magnifying, so if you want to see a normal view of yourself, you'll need an additional mirror. The Wide mirror doesn't have any magnification, has a ridiculously large footprint, and the adjustable side panels never felt as sleek/well-made compared to most simplehuman products to me. If you don't have an Apple or Android phone, you will not be able to take advantage of the newer features on the Pro models (they are app-based last I looked). If you are getting the 8" version, the latest model ("Sensor Mirror Pro"), which is more expensive than the original one, is improved over the original in a lot of ways. There were real cons to the first one that they addressed in the latest model (though you have to be able to use their mobile app!) - e.g. being able to change how short/long it stays on, it has a detachable (magnetic) mini mirror that has additional magnification (it sits on the center of the mirror when you want to use it and when not, it's on the back), and adjust the brightness/tone of the light. The quality of the light and mirror are great across all models I've tried (Pro, 8" Original, 5" Original, Pro Wide-View), and I used the original 8" nearly daily and never had an issue with it holding a charge/recharging nor has the light dimmed or gone out. I also have the smaller one, which I probably use more often (not daily but for 2-3 hours at a time with a lot of on and off), and it is also still going strong. (I believe it's been two years.) It uses LED lights, and the press relesae listed they're supposed to last for over 40,000 hours (works out to be 55 years of two hours of daily usage or over 100 years of one hour, daily usage). I'm not a fan of the Pro Wide-View (unless for some reason you can't mount a mirror on a wall, I just find it lacking in functionality for as much space on a counter/vanity it takes up). I think the 5" is only useful if you NEED 10X for the majority of your makeup. I use mine primarily for applying lip products for swatches or for plucking stray brow hairs. Even for eyeshadow, it is useful, but I prefer 5x magnification to be able to blend better but still have a better picture of what everything looks like normally.

  • Wilhelmine Pacocha

    # X-Post to /r/Battlestations # Hello World. Using a alt account for privacy reasons. As I hope you can respect, anyone who has seen my rig will recognize me from these photos. Long time lurker. Finally feel mostly finished with my home rig. Figured I'd throw it up, as I've received a lot of inspiration and advice over the years both from this specific subreddit, as well as others. ## My use cases are multiple. - I'm a audio junkie, hence the speakers. - I'm a technical professional, hence the general overbuild and adherence to keeping the wiring clean. - I'm a multi media creative, hence the better processor, RAM, and abundance of storage space. - I'm a light gamer and have interests in GPU programming, hence the GPU. - I spend a majority of my time at the computer, hence the standing desk for ergonomics to mix it up. **Video of Standing Desk going up/down:** http://tinypic.com/r/k9us0j/9 # Desktop Specs - Case: Ultra Rouge M925 ATX Full Tower - Mother: MSI Z97 Gaming - CPU: i5-4670K - GPU: MSI R9 390 8GB - Boot Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB SSD - Main Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB HD - Media/Backup Storage: 2X Western Digital Caviar Blue 320GB HD - PSU: EVGA 750G2 - RAM: 2X G.Skills Trident X Series 8GB DDR3-2933 # Peripherals - Display: LG 34UM67-P - Speakers: Samson ResolvSE6 _ Keyboard: CM Masterkeys Pro S - Mouse: Anker Ergo - Samsung Fast Charge Wireless Charger - Anker USB 3.0 Hub - ATROND Prime 5x USB port 2x Power Block # Custom Standing Desk - Top: WB Manufacturing 36x72 Hardwood Workbench - Legs: Jarvis Electric Adjustable Desk - Sliding Swiveling Case Under Desk Mount - Architect style Lamps w/ LED lights # Laptops - ThinkPad T460 w/ Ubuntu - Apple MacBook Pro Retina # Add't Toys - Camera: Sony A6000 - Daily Lens: G Series 4/18-105 - Wide: Rokinon 12mm - Abstract: CCTV 16mm - Action Camera: GoPro 4 Silver - Phone: Samsung S7 Edge w/ Wireless Charger # Things on my list - Add a curved ultrawide. Stack the monitors. - Better processor for multimedia processing. I'm too impatient to wait on Premiere Pro to render video. ##### Thanks! ######

  • Cassandra Dibbert

    Hey there! I've finally gotten my new bike ready to go, a Raleigh Cadent i8 with 8sp internal hub and a belt drive! My normal commute was on my trusty mid 2000s Trek 7300fx so the big challenge was going to be adjusting to less gears. I ride thru Brooklyn, over the Williamsburg bridge and into Manhattan ending up at work in Soho. Just above 4 miles one way. By the time I hit the top of the bridge, I was gassed. My fitness level is pretty average however, the 8 miles a day to and from work is my main exercise, otherwise I'm a slightly overweight 42 year old who sits at a desk 8 hrs a day. I'm hoping the extra output will equal better level of fitness so I'm totally cool with day one being hard. Once I descended into the city tho, the magic of the bike took over. I'm attributing it to the belt, which I've read is more efficient in transferring power from your legs to the wheels. On the flat streets of the city, it was a marked difference in instant speed available with the same effort on my old bike. I never once thought I'd need to stand and mash. I just chugged a little harder and got the power and acceleration I needed. Perhaps though I am aware that shifting while mashing is a no-no, I'm being a little overly cautious with my shifting. Still figuring out that part. But the main takeaway was that the bike was great! It rides a little more aggressively then the Trek and the disc brakes are a real upgrade. I'm also transitioning from a Rokform stem mount to the quad lock mount system. I bought the 'out front' mount but my case has not arrived. The Rokform was nice but their case design coupled with the mount not really being a true 'lock on' became an issue. There were a couple times my phone got knocked off the mount and the lanyard helped but the crashing against the medal of the bike chipped my glass anyway :( The only real item I'd like to get is a kickstand but I want something light, any suggestions would be great! The fenders I had installed on this bike make it difficult to lock the bike up with my ulock too. Silk Road Cycles in Greenpoint Brooklyn (who assembled the bike for me) has the Abus locks that are the adjustable metal segments. Those looked really versatile for bike locking in the wild. And really compact when mounted on the bike frame! But pricey. On my wish list!

  • Brooke Abshire

    Keep in mind I hate mobile phones and mobile gaming: You release an adjustable controller mount for modern Android and Sony Xperia sized phones, with ❖, ✕〇△□, L1L2R1R2, two Analogue Sticks left over from the warehouse of unsold Vitas. *Desperately need the form factor to be small, and not make a phone even chunkier, also needs to be low power consumption.* Possibly, have an adjustable Micro-USB connector to plug into the phone for phantom power, if possible without ruining the handle's ergonomics. You release the SONY PlayStation Store Mobile for Android, new Sony phones come with it already installed. Have your lab geeks create an official emulator for the PS1 and PSP. Whilst you float on people wanting to replay MGS1 and Tomb Raider on the train (gauging customer engagement): You sign contracts with indi-japanese developers for exclusive release in the west of their weird low-fidelity RPGs, and offer to translate them and release them on your growing marketplace in return. You bargain with Capcom to release a port of a 3DS Monster Hunter game on the thing. Next Step: crib the HTC Vive, and offer PSVR with your Xperia phones, sell the application through the Sony PlayStation Mobile Store.

  • Chanelle Orn

    - 1-of-a-kind Paint Scheme I did Myself - Zero Gravity Touring Screen - $85 - SOLOBOX Windscreen Risers - $90 - Acerbis Front Fender - $25 - Eagle Mike Fork Brace (eliminates speed wobble at around 75mph) - $109 - Progressive Fork Springs (HUGE improvement over stock springs) - $85 - Thermo Bob 2 (enhanced thermostat an cooling setup) - $125 - Doohickey Done - $138 - Givi Crash Bars - $190 - Happy Trails Adjustable Center Stand (makes lubing chain and swapping tires easy) - $150 - Aluminum Sidestand Killswitch Protector - $30 - Aluminum Brake Master Cylinder Protector - $30 - Vance & Hines Exhaust (sounds awesome) - $315 - DirtRacks Pannier Mounts - $169 - DirtRacks Tail Rack (for top box) - $79 - 2x Pelican 1520 Cases (side cases) - $200 - 1x Pelican 1560 Case (top box) - $100 - Shorai LFX14L5-BS12 Lithium Battery (no more leaky batteries and weighs almost nothing) - $155 - Shuinko T63 Rear Tire - $75 - Top Gun Rebuilt Shock with Upgraded 7.4kg Spring - $200 - Carburetor Re-jetted w/ Eagle Mike KLX Needle (much better throttle response) - $45 - Uni Air Filter (easy to get to and clean) - $21 - Renthal Street Handlebars (Gold) - $63 - Trackside Handguards - $50 - X-Grip Phone/GPS Mount - $46 - IMS Pro Series Footpegs (huge improvement over stock footpegs) - $69 - IMS Flightline Shifter - $24 - Sunstar 16 tooth Front Sprocket (makes highway riding more pleasant) - $31 - Drill-thru Subframe Upgradae Kit (not intalled) - $24 - Upgraded Fuel Petcock - $28 - 12v Cigarette outlet - $12 - Badass Bicycle Handlebar Bell - $3 - JUST flushed/filled brake fluids - JUST flushed/filled coolant fluids - JUST changed oil/filter - JUST cleaned air filter Added up, that's $2482 worth of aftermarket parts on a 2-year-old bike (bought it brand new in 2014) with only 13000 miles, which is nothing for a KLR. If you are in the market for a KLR that you plan to upgrade heavily, save yourself the money and time and get this!

  • Patricia Dibbert

    Afraid not. [Filmic Pro](https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/filmic-pro/id436577167?mt=8) is a nice app for making your iPhone feel more like a video camera. Something like a [RODE VideoMic ME](https://www.amazon.com/Rode-VideoMic-Directional-Microphone-Phones/dp/B018KIJGU8) or a [RODE SmartLav](https://www.amazon.com/Rode-Smartlav-Lavalier-Microphone-Smartphones/dp/B00BHN05H2) would help things sound better (which makes a huge difference in perceived quality. A mount for your phone is handy but a tripod is overkill. Something like this flexible [GorillaPod phone mount](http://a.co/dK8pLh2) is pretty handy for attaching your phone to whatever stands you have access to. Lastly, a bright, high-quality LED panel can give you a lot of control over how things look. This [Yongnuo YN-300](https://www.amazon.com/YONGNUO-YN300-III-Temperatur-Adjustable/dp/B00RJSTJ6C) is the go-to for a low-cost good-performing LED light panel.

  • Dee Zboncak

    I CANNOT recommend this anymore than I possibly can, this product I have already bought 3 of, about to make it 4 necessary another vehicle is in need. It's adjustable so it holds my Nexus 6 with a bulky ballistic case, my parent's slimmer moto G's and even my brothers small I phone, once you mount it properly, it gets nice and secure to hold the weight of the phone, but it's really adjustable - even the angle of which the part that is going to be physically holding the phone. So my suggestion for a N6 is to mount it on your windshield in kind of the way the letter U would look if u weged a U into the windshield. This way you can angle it to rest on your cars dashboard to really make it easy to hold our big ole phone, can send you a pic of it of you want! TaoTronics Car Phone Mount Holder, Windshield / Dashboard Universal Car Mobile Phone cradle for iOS / Android Smartphone and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MXWFUQC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YaBmyb1V89HE4

  • Jasper Mills

    I'm still trying to understand why you bought a laptop, when you're already using your laptop? Anyways, PS4 flat on it's bottom off to the back right-hand corner, with the controller "tower" thing on top of it. An adjustable monitor mount would probably come in handy for the bigger of the two displays, this way you can have both speakers behind the monitor, but to where they're still to where you can hear them rather well. Next, you get rid of one of the displays. Not that multiple displays looks bad, but going down to one would look much cleaner. This way, you can put your USB hub right under your monitor, have you phone dock just to the left of your left speaker and can have your keyboard and mouse front and center, giving you MUCH more desk space. Your Chromebook can just kinda live wherever, since it's as small and portable as it is. This was just for the top of your desk. We haven't even started to talk about cable management.

  • Francesca Lang

    Picked this up used looking like it'd never been ridden. Started commuting to work earlier this year on a hard tail mountain bike that is to small and decided I wanted something I could put a rack and a bunch of miles on. I'm down 40 pounds now and planning on doing some weekend tours this spring once I get a few centuries under my belt. Added Cygolite lights, SKS fenders, VP Vice pedals, Axiom Journey rack, Ortlieb panniers, smaller inner chainring, RAM phone mount, kickstand and a bottle holder big enough for the Nalgene. Crashed into a new horizontal pole fence across the trail (no idea why its needed there) I take to work one foggy morning and had to get new bars and tape. Threw in an adjustable stem to work on fit. It's been a great so far. Learning how to work on it has been a lot of fun and keeping the drive train silent feels pretty nice.

  • Felix Koch

    Picked this up used looking like it'd never been ridden. Started commuting to work earlier this year on a hard tail mountain bike that is to small and decided I wanted something I could put a rack and a bunch of miles on. I'm down 40 pounds now and planning on doing some weekend tours this spring once I get a few centuries under my belt. Added Cygolite lights, SKS fenders, VP Vice pedals, Axiom Journey rack, Ortlieb panniers, smaller inner chainring, RAM phone mount, kickstand and a bottle holder big enough for the Nalgene. Crashed into a new horizontal pole fence across the trail (no idea why its needed there) I take to work one foggy morning and had to get new bars and tape. Threw in an adjustable stem to work on fit. It's been a great so far. Learning how to work on it has been a lot of fun and keeping the drive train silent feels pretty nice. I don't know if it'd be too much, but if anyone knows a good blue seat I'd be game.

  • Ahmad Walker

    Second Proclip. After two years of messing around with various mounts, only to be left wanting in the rigidity or the suction cup departments, I went with Proclip for mu Impreza. It works great and holds my phone rock solid! This is the one I use: http://www.proclipusa.com/dashboard-mounts/vehicle/subaru/impreza/2008-2011/proclip-center-mount-854082-13017.cmsv?p_leftorright=0 Mind you, you also need the part that has the actual phone holder: http://www.proclipusa.com/phone-holders/device/google/nexus-6p-huawei/adjustable-holder-for-small-to-medium-cases-246605-19907.cmsv?p_leftorright=0 In the end, it was a little spendy but I am extremely satisfied with it.

  • Carlie Rice

    Nearly every phone is a rectangle, with a charging port at the bottom middle. You just need to make the mount size adjustable and have a hole for a cord and you're set. All cords are still USB 3.0 on one end, so it doesn't matter as long as the car port is 3.0. Just bring your own cord. There are a fuckload of universal car mounts available for purchase. The only reason the manufacturer would make it stock is because it'd match the car, and it's another option they can say they have. Plus a lot of phones wirelessly charge. If it's also built into the mount, charging cord wouldn't matter Why would your passenger need a phone mount??! They aren't driving they can hold their phone with their hands lol.

  • Jerad Daniel

    1. The mic picks me up better on Skype conference calls. I'm aware it still outputs power when closed 2. They're not? 3. It's more aesthetically pleasing when it's symmetrical. But when I'm working, I pull one of the monitors towards me on to focus on using the adjustable arm on the mount. Then move them back into default position when I'm done. 4. The watch irritates the hairs on my arm when I'm wearing it all day. I've only been working from home for a short time so don't need to wear it when I'm working (have everything I need from phone and laptop). When I leave the house, I put it on. I have a charging stand for my phone and watch on my nightstand, which I'm considering putting on my desk so I can change and it's more visible as I'm working. 5. Username checks out.

  • Abe Hessel

    Because there really is not a way to design an integrated phone mount that can accommodate the many different sizes of phones in a cost-effective way. You can design a slot that will hold a specific phone nice and tight or you can tack on an adjustable mount to the dashboard that doesn't look good. Or you can just have a generic slot in the console that can hold pretty much any phone, but not tightly. Automakers have enough of that "tacked on" look as it is with iPad-looking infotainment screens plopped on top of the dash (which automotive interior designers hate the look of, but they get overruled by the demand for such a screen).

  • Reina Jones

    Dang you're write. Step 1) Use a wall wort / power adapter to downvolt the fan to ~5V. This will almost always allow for sufficient RPM to get a sufficient vortex going. Step 2) Use a molex to USB cable adapter, ~$3.50 Step 3) Connect fan to adapter, adapter cable to power adapter. Step 4) Disassemble phone mount, reassemble phone mount with two magnets stacked on top of each other with opposite polarity. Step 5) Tape/glue phone mount magnet disk thing to fan chassis. Step 6) ???? Step 7) Profit. This will definitely be easier if you have a fan with adjustable RPM, but I haven't used a fan yet that it didn't work with.

  • Chanel Bogan

    I have all the protection equip: sump plate, engine bars, bark busters, headlight guard, radiator guard. Aux lights. OEM Comfort gel seat. Arrow exhaust and map. Pelican side cases and top case. 2nd powerlet port under the seat for heated gear. I stripped out the primary powerlet port by the ignition and put in a waterproof retractable micro-usb charger for my phone. Oh yea, a custom phone handlebar mount. Adjustable levers. Dremeled out a lot of useless plastic under the seat to make more storage room. Manual cam chain tensioner. 80/20 tires.

  • Ellie Kassulke

    Seconded, I got an adjustable 'universal' mount that's been good across 3 different phones. I use it along with a custom permanent mounting bracket - I had to take the center console out to install the bracket so I ran power to the mount at the same time. The setup is rock solid, I put my phone in there multiple times a day every day over the last 4 years and it's as solid as the day I installed it. By far the best phone mounts on the market. Pricier than the cheap Amazon clips but if you have to replace it every year is it really pricier in the end?

  • Cecil Bogisich

    I know you're asking for a mount, but just wanted to suggest a holder; https://www.amazon.com/iKross-Cellphone-Adjustable-Extended-Smartphone/dp/B00F0IQTE8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1482516524&sr=8-5&keywords=phone+cup+holder Have a 2016 and got it in the cup holder closest to the dash. Very adjustable, comes with two type of holders; phone and tablet. Base can expand for a snug fit. Can slightly get in the way of rowing gears, but isn't bad.

  • Stacy Goodwin

    Check out the Schoshe magnetic phone/iPad holder. Just got one for my car and it's so good I've considered getting another to mount on my erg. It's an angle-adjustable mount with a seriously sticky pad on one side and a magnetic holder and comes with a magnetic piece to slip into your iPad case or another one to stick directly to the back of it. You could mount it on the frame below the chain guard if you never use the handle holder, or maybe mount it on the monitor arm.

  • Fabiola Mitchell

    This is pretty good. Considering the equipment and techniques, it's a solid job. Don't give up, and keep chipping away at it. As for advice, perhaps jury-rigging a holder for the phone might be in order until you can get an adjustable smartphone mount thing. Also, I don't know much about iPhones, but see if you can find an app that allows you to control the exposure more carefully.

  • Ericka Pagac

    No problem, they show you how to measure your phone & case to get the best fit. I think they have universal adjustable holders, but I really like the fact that mine is perfect for my phone (Galaxy S7) plus its case (Otterbox commuter). Never have to adjust it, just slips in and stays perfectly tight. Make sure you buy both pieces, 1 Mount & 1 phone holder.

  • Jeremie Beahan

    If you made an adjustable phone mount for the quick charge I'm sure people would buy it. I had a few thoughts on how to make one but don't have a 3d printer or the software to design it. It also probably wouldn't work. I was thinking something that could be adjusted on the left and right sides to accommodate phones and their cases.

  • Christiana Frami

    What's good for my SO may not be good for yours. I'm getting my SO an adjustable phone mount for use in a car. He travels for work, drives a lot of different rental cars, so it would be nice if he had something that would work in different models. We're saving up for our wedding and move, so we're keeping gifts to a minimum.

  • Isaac Krajcik

    Only reason I like proclip is that its the only mount that connects below my dash. I have the mount for my car and their generic holster which i think is $80 total. Best mount I have used to be honest. The holder is adjustable so it will fit any phone, and Like I said it sits below my dash so it doesn't block anything.

  • Karine Hodkiewicz

    My wife and I really like the [Ram Mount](http://rammount.com/) products for cup holders. They have many base mounting and adjustable arm options to make for the perfect fit..but kind of pricey. The X-Grip phone holder is also pretty nice.

  • Madonna Romaguera

    ipega 9023 has your phone fit inside the adjustable length telescoping mount thingy like the screen of a psp /r/emulationonandroid has a couple reviews on the sidebar but the 9023 is the one i personally use (for both Android and PC)

  • Kiana Price

    I use a pro clip mount. Its sold as an adjustable iPhone mount for cases but fits almost every phone perfect. Also very low do nowhere near volume buttons

  • Tabitha Schamberger

    I customized a Britannia composites voodoo faring from a KTM 990. Gives you some wicked lights and the adjustable windscreen and GPS/phone mount in one solid fiberglass unit

  • Alba Hand

    I need to get a larger size adjustable phone mount, the one my gorilla pod came with barely fits my V20 plus it's case. Where did you get yours?

  • Norris Hayes

    If smaller phone mount companies can come up with an adjustable mount, I'm sure big car companies can figure it out.

  • Eli Bins

    I recommend spending the money and get a bluetooth unit that was specifically designed to work with helmets. I have the Sena SMH5. It was under $100 bucks and it works great. Not only can I listen to music while I ride, I'm able to make calls while riding. The mic works so good, the people I'm talking to are surprised to learn that I'm riding while I'm talking to them. I like the Sena units but the other brands are just as good. As far as mounting your GPS to your scooter, I think the only real solution is a RAM mount. You're going to need to purchase a few pieces to make everything work but it's so worth it. First you need the [base.] (http://www.ebay.com/itm/RAM-Mounts-RAM-B-272U-Motorcycle-Base-with-9mm-Hole-and-1-Ball-/201055917248?hash=item2ecfddd4c0:g:-MMAAOxy3FVR6IcG) Then the [arm.] (http://www.ebay.com/itm/RAP-B-201U-Ram-Mounts-Composite-Double-Socket-Arm-for-1-Ball-Bases-AUTH-DEALER-/201397497067?hash=item2ee439eceb:g:IJ8AAMXQRkdR4~2K) They have different sizes but I only linked the 5" arm. And then the [GPS plate.] (http://www.ebay.com/itm/RAM-Mount-Custom-GPS-Cradle-for-Garmin-nuvi-52-52LM-54-54LM-55-56-56LMT-/302216774706?hash=item465d860432:g:A5wAAOSwo4pYhuJN) I don't know what GPS you have but RAM has many different styles and hopefully, you could find one that works with your GPS. Then you need the [ball attachment] (http://www.ebay.com/itm/RAP-B-238U-1-Ball-Composite-Ram-Mount-Diamond-Base-Plate-2-43-x131-AMPS-Hole-/201372502239?hash=item2ee2bc88df:g:vrkAAOSwBLlVgHHi) If they don't have a GPS plate that works, you can get an [X-Grip] (http://www.ebay.com/itm/RAM-Mount-RAM-HOL-UN7BU-Universal-X-Grip-Cell-Phone-GPS-iPod-Touch-Holder-/291997199342?hash=item43fc63abee:g:vF0AAOSw241YdcuN) that should work with almost any GPS. They do make a larger X-Grip if you're GPS is one of the big ones.

  • Timmothy Bednar

    Loaded question I suppose, but here goes. I'm looking into buying a used 2013 Suzuki GW250 for work. I'm a Real Estate Photographer and do not want to put that kind of mileage on my 2016 Camaro and kill my warranty. A few things I'm trying to figure out: - How trustworthy are GPS mounts on a motorcycle? - How would I keep my phone charged? - Are storage crates awkward to ride with? I'd need a pretty heavy-duty one to put my padded gear bag into. I couldn't risk an accident destroying my gear, even with insurance, and don't want to risk rain getting in my backpack if it starts to rain out-of-the-blue. Any other general advice you could think of would also be greatly appreciated. This just seems like the cheapest solution and a great way to keep gas expenses down and still be able to write off a ton of miles in taxes.

  • Liam Wolf

    The deleted post from the alt-right Trumpietrash redditor called: i-love_america. Read it and puke. This is what you voted for with Trump the pig. Nutcase Trumpietrash study below. This post regards East Side Pies in Austin, TX. (Disclaimer: I am not accusing anybody of anything in this post. Only pointing out very interesting connections in light of the Wikileaks revelations about John Podestas affinities for certain foods and everything this sub is dedicated to.) This post will document East Side Pies (ESP) and their curious Facebook photos involving children and illuminati symbolism, property photos with same symbols from Comet Ping Pong, their owner and his connections to the CIA (this was a big red flag for me knowing how involved the CIA is with human trafficking), the profiles they follow on twitter and the profiles connected to them (pizza related). None of this is proof of anything. But as with the Comet Ping Pong instagram, we can all read between the lines. Just one creepy kid bit....Their motto is "We know what you want". Another note. The school is located next to a middle school. As an aspiring journalist, I placed two phone calls to 2 separate ESP locations and asked to speak to a manager. After informing the first location of my investigations into the new revelations, in a very fake like tone of surprise he said "Oh no I have never heard of that!!" He sounded like the stereotypical gay guy in a hollywood movie. Like he was totally lying and pretending not to know. He also had a complete tone of shock - like he never expected anyone to figure out the code words. The second manager said he had "no comment". I said "so then you have heard about pi22a gate" He said he never had. So I asked him if he had never heard about it, then why does he not have any comment?" He then hung up. -The Facebook Photos- Here is a picture of their logo. The illuminati eye and the pyramid on our dollar bill. I have noticed many people implicated in my own research have used this symbol along with many other satanic symbols. NOTICE THE SAFETY PIN - this will tie into further connections. https://www.facebook.com/EastSidePies/photos/a.312595154451.145681.94145834451/10154724819224452/?type=3&theater Just a photo of the Clintons and Trumps. Nothing crazy just interesting considering how this ties back to Clinton. https://www.facebook.com/EastSidePies/photos/a.312595154451.145681.94145834451/10154573383379452/?type=3&theater Weird piece of art hanging on the wall of ESP. Its a slice of pizza with faces on it. The caption of the photo says "There are real people behind our pizza" Could this be a cannibalisitic reference? https://www.facebook.com/EastSidePies/photos/a.312595154451.145681.94145834451/10154525262839452/?type=3&theater Photo of a young child next to a water spout. Captioned "After pondering the amazement of water go get yourself some East Side Pie! We have free water for our customers." What does water and a young boy have to do with pizza? https://www.facebook.com/EastSidePies/photos/a.312595154451.145681.94145834451/10154401453099452/?type=3 Photo of 7 young children in the cooking area of the restaurant. Perhaps they are on a field trip. But what school goes to a pizza shop for field trip? https://www.facebook.com/EastSidePies/photos/a.312595154451.145681.94145834451/10154359325339452/?type=3&theater Photo of their menu of the day. This is pure speculation but...I keep seeing ricotta sauce being used in very weird ways. I this pic nothing seems off. But if there is a weeping meaning to ricotta as I suspect considering all the mentions of it in the Podesta leaks, then this could be code. https://www.facebook.com/EastSidePies/photos/a.312595154451.145681.94145834451/10154231841664452/?type=3&theater Another photo of a school field trip. https://www.facebook.com/EastSidePies/photos/a.10153735352254452.1073741829.94145834451/10153735352394452/?type=3&theater Photo of 10 young girls holding ESP pizza boxes https://www.facebook.com/EastSidePies/photos/a.312595154451.145681.94145834451/10153273837244452/?type=3&theater Property photo out outside seating with heart on the wall...girl lover symbol? You be the Judge. https:[email protected],-97.724193,3a,75y,90t/data=!3m8!1e2!3m6!1slkoHRImNN8cAAAQfCQI10w!2e0!3e3!6s%2F%2Flh4.googleusercontent.com%2Fproxy%2FZ1S_W_9gzQrhVcijyRfH-MgVxclCc-b5ZnR3oRPczaC2WlM9M3mUrFp7Wg5zN6cTP1ZOmDD9qmwjbDZVtVvFog-SxKCpYoFvBQ3sWFmIWA9Dl7UN8RsN9FYm6dmW_qP44NJQAyDyS8lQDjkfNO58bvKQ97M%3Dw203-h114!7i2844!8i1600!4m5!3m4!1s0x8644b5b9746038b7:0x85bdcabc10e1b8ba!8m2!3d30.268771!4d-97.7240675!6m1!1e1 Another property photo. This time with a add in the outdoor seating area that says "illuminaughty". I can't make out the rest of the text. https:[email protected],-97.724193,3a,75y,90t/data=!3m8!1e2!3m6!1sVd6h3Fs31ZgAAAQfCQIQDQ!2e0!3e3!6s%2F%2Flh5.googleusercontent.com%2Fproxy%2Fq7VMrjKJSSELv_Z3VC0pVc9R7mmhYjLwQUwb72WMvhpsktlJ6jdjwY-Woe6GdWURbcqWgxuq3E6btU-JAEuUo9VPT2tIsTa66CynhPuotl00JSLTa_-Verk55x--kAdqDhGFI7j8fyH0_E1JNMRMEzJ6ckA%3Dw203-h114!7i2844!8i1600!4m5!3m4!1s0x8644b5b9746038b7:0x85bdcabc10e1b8ba!8m2!3d30.268771!4d-97.7240675!6m1!1e1 Photo of ESP with a banner of a construction company next to it. (Remember Comet Ping Pong was located next to a construction company that specialized in below ground construction). https://www.facebook.com/EastSidePies/photos/a.10151453035454452.497091.94145834451/10153111008719452/?type=3&theater Upon further inspection of the construction company (AR Lucas Construction) you can see on this page http://www.arlucasconstruction.com/partnerships/ that they are connected to the "Property Brothers" guys....an innocent connection or a weeping connection to hollywood? We all know what kind of stuff hollywood is involved in as it relates to this sub. Another property photo with the same moon and star symbol that we saw on comet ping pong. Look to the right of the ESP sign. It will be on the green building connected to ESP. https:[email protected],-97.7242153,3a,75y,139h,90t/data=!3m5!1e1!3m3!1slr7P4ZjYV3HQ_y4-7WMmnw!2e0!6s%2F%2Fgeo0.ggpht.com%2Fcbk%3Fpanoid%3Dlr7P4ZjYV3HQ_y4-7WMmnw%26output%3Dthumbnail%26cb_client%3Dmaps_sv.tactile.gps%26thumb%3D2%26w%3D203%26h%3D100%26yaw%3D139.09178%26pitch%3D0.027089942%26thumbfov%3D100!4m5!3m4!1s0x8644b5b9746038b7:0x85bdcabc10e1b8ba!8m2!3d30.268771!4d-97.7240675!6m1!1e1 A street view pic of the side of ESP. Notice the blue spray paint on the wall that says "baby" http://imgur.com/a/TY3Vp Another street view of the other side of ESP. Notice the blue spray paint on the dumpster. It says "king baby" http://imgur.com/a/ewiSt ESP guys getting photo taken with Mayor. Another weird political connection. https://www.facebook.com/EastSidePies/photos/a.312595154451.145681.94145834451/10151839980784452/?type=3&theater Photo of young girl selling lemonade from ESP. Another weird connection to young children. Maybe they just support young entrepreneurs? You be the judge. https://www.facebook.com/EastSidePies/photos/a.312595154451.145681.94145834451/10151808757009452/?type=3 Photo of 3 young girls next to the lemonade stand. Captioned "sandra ramos". Im not sure who this is. https://www.facebook.com/EastSidePies/photos/a.10151595896594452.1073741825.94145834451/10151595896989452/?type=3&theater Another photo of very young child eating pizza. https://www.facebook.com/EastSidePies/photos/a.312595154451.145681.94145834451/10151485017064452/?type=3&theater Another charter school field trip https://www.facebook.com/EastSidePies/photos/a.312595154451.145681.94145834451/10151271439749452/?type=3&theater .................................. -Now on to the Twitter stuff- This is the link to the profiles they follow on twitter https://twitter.com/EastSide_Pies/following ...this is where it gets interesting. One of the owners...whos profile is here https://twitter.com/Michael_Freid ... is an ex CIA agent. He says it on his profile. His account however is private. There are a few interesting profiles ESP follows. I will only focus on a few but there are surely more that you guys can look into. One is Slow Foods USA https://www.instagram.com/slowfoodusa/ Their instagram has tons of pics of young children. And their logo has the boy lover symbol cleverly disguised as the shell of a snail. This group should be looked more into. Im focusing the rest on very weird pizza related stuff. They also follow https://twitter.com/Pizza__Hunt ....This is where is gets weird. A twitter account dedicated to "pizza journalism". Idk who dedicates journalism to that but to each his own. The "pizza hunt" twitter follows https://twitter.com/OnceUponAPizza who follows https://twitter.com/PizzaFestival/media ....now look at the first video on that link. A video of joe pesci promoting pizza and being very cryptic in what he is saying (another link to hollywood and pizza). A link to the official website of pizza festival http://pizzafestival.net has their partners as CBS, and St. Judes Children Hospital. Thats all for tonight folks. Im tired. -Again. Disclaimer. I am not accusing anybody of anything.-

  • Emie Trantow

    For the fun-blocked: Greetings Commannders, I’m just posting up to confirm that we have an update making its way to you this morning. The servers will be going down at 10:45 AM GMT and will be down for approximately 2 - 4 hours. We’ll let you know if there are any unexpected delays on this thread. I’d like to take a moment to thank all of the people who took part in the beta. The support is invaluable, thank you so much. The update is going live to Xbox One and PC. Here’s the juicy change log.... 2.2.03 Change Log Stability Fixes - Fix for crash when dropping from orbit at Eafots LZ-H b10-0 D 1 - Crash fix for a rare case when hyperspacing out of a system that turns into an invalid state en route - Fix for outfitting crash when receiving a web response without a ship loadout in it - Fix a crash in the PlayerPOISpawner if the closest planet in the planet surface manager hasn't been found yet - Softlock loading in to a persistent POI in multiplayer situation fixed - Prevent mission server softlock - Fix some memory stomping reading JSON response for the ship list when transferring a remote ship - Powerplay page softlocks on selecting power in turmoil fixed - Fixed crash caused by the engineer crafting manager trying to callback on the workshop GUI after it has been closed - Fix crash in role switch panel - Xbox One: Fixed low level cockpit GUI crash General Tweaks/Fixes - Added new DTS Headphone X functionality - Allow a mini USS bubble around Colonia - Fix transaction server error when clearing a save that had lots of exploration data - Committing a murder while in a fighter now results in being attacked by the Authority following a scan - If saving or autosaving while in supercruise, move the player well clear of star Jet Cones. You shouldn't ever reload back in after a hyperspace failure stuck in the cones anymore. Note that if you save/log out while in normal space, you will still be in the cone on your return, this safety check can't be used to escape once you've already made a mistake, it's just covering for failures that aren't the player's fault - Added a warning message when a non-flown ship is being scanned - Fixed "Ship scan detected" warning not always appearing - Fix for NPC voice volume slider not working in the audio options - Allow Reload time in Outfitting to be shown to the nearest 1 decimal place rather than rounded to whole seconds - Added some system metadata for the five starsystems holding refuelling bases between the Sol bubble and Colonia - Crew rank does not update on the contacts or ship GUI after ranking up fixed - Fixed missing cyrillic glyphs in module and systems panel - Avoid tinting weapon impacts on environmental surfaces - Fix for the POIs getting stuck loading due to the ReplicatedLevelContainer not activating its advance phase - Allow Reload time in Outfitting to be shown to the nearest 1 decimal place rather than rounded to whole seconds - Don't clear legal state after a cargo scan! This will make the cockpit "Wanted" warning vanish! - Warning message now appears when player scans fighter or mothership with Kill warrant or Manifest scanner - Fixed a rare cause of triggering the ship rebuy screen when docking an SRV at a planet base - Fixed outfitting with multiple purchases of bobbleheads - Added new Military slots to applicable ships along with loc strings and hit sphere locations for them - Fixed descriptions for engineer related commodities - Fixed (r) and (tm) glyph not being parsed correctly from loc files - Xbox One: Don't show nameless scoreboard entries. If we have data for a player without a name, then don't add it to the score summary - Xbox One: Where we have axis bindings, unhide the +/- button bindings so they can be rebound. Also make all flight control axes invertible - Xbox One: Don't handle a protocol activation if we're resetting or disconnecting. This means if we accept one while suspended, we won't process it until we've gone through a full reset and reconnected, at which point we should be able to safely join the session - Various text fixes - Latest localisation updates included Passengers - Added passenger seating allocation to allow passengers to be assigned outside of mission board - Updated the timescale of the Long Distance Expedition template to be 28 days - Updated the bonus rewards from passenger demanded cargo - this makes the reward more worth while for the player Missions - Added a new mission type for investigating the ancient ruins - Make supply to demand overrides take max distance into account (Stops Colonia making missions which intend to only go 500ly into missions to pop back to the bubble with a ~24 time limit) - Reduce number of missions sent to clients as we're only sending relevant missions now - Increased maximum mission duration to 28 days - Fix elite rank point calculations from missions so that they are a % of any mission profit earned - Fix the mission generation iteration limitor as it was preventing missions from spawning and thus decreasing board size - Make sure that missions are properly transferred to the ship transactions panel after boarding from an SRV - Fix for lack of Exquisite Focus Crystals as a mission reward - Fix data message IDs at all ancient sites for the associated mission so that the codex scans actually trigger an inbox message - Added mission limit to the ancient ruins mission - Fixed mission progress elements in the ancient ruins template to actually show the inbox messages as the data is discovered - Reduced the reputation reward for the ancient ruin mission when handed in and not fully completed - Added a bonus reputation reward for full ancient ruin mission completion - Massacre Conflict missions will only accept conflict zone targets - Add additional logging to inbox messages to try to find out why we're receiving a reply for a message we don't have anymore - Fixed codex with blank entries and Tweaked active codex numbers sot hat more are active at a time - Fixed an incorrectly set boolean preventing multiple rewards from a single success point New Module - Module Reinforcement Pack (MRP) added, in the same sizes/classes as HRPs, designed to protect modules against external attacks piercing the hull - Integrity of all MRPs approximately 15% higher than beta. MRPs now have a multiplier to make them much more easy to repair with an AMFU to offset their huge health pools, each unit of AFM ammo repaired restores 10x as much health to an MRP as it will to other modules Weapons - Rather than permanently disabling guidance on torpedoes, ECM now gives an enormous kick onto a new trajectory and scrambles them for a short time (randomly between 5 and 10 seconds), after which they will re-acquire a lock and turn back in to engage - Fixed multicannon Clips increased to 100 (from 90) - Fixed/gimbal multicannon reload times adjusted for consistency (generally buffed), fixed are now 4s, gimballed 5s (from an inconsistent 4s/5s mix) - Fixed cannon damage increased by 25% - Fixed cannon clip size increased to 6 (from 5) - Fixed cannon reload time reduced to 3 (from 4) - Fixed cannon ammo reserve size increased to 120 (from 100) - Gimbal/Turret cannon damage increased by 15% - All fixed pulse/burst/beam weapons have 10% reduced WEP drain - WEP draw of burst lasers reduced by 10-15% (on top of fixed weapons as mentioned earlier). This has been adjusted so that pulse and burst weapons have essentially the same final DPE, and represent a tradeoff between DPS and power/heat - Plasma Accelerator reload times reduced to 6s (from 8) - Plasma Accelerator damage increased - Damage split for Plasma accelerators changed from a kinetic thermal split to 60% absolute/20% kinetic/20% thermal (reduced from 100% absolute in beta), this means they partially ignore any damage resistance - Reactor power draw for beams reduced 10% - Frag Cannon base damage and hardness piercing adjusted to maintain the same damage against large ship hulls, but get a 15% bonus against small ships and shields - Frag Cannon ammo reserve doubled (to 180 from 90) - Clip size modifications now always round the clip up to avoid overly punishing small-clip weapons, and the modifier is not shown if it will have no effect - Increased fighter weapon hardness piercing - Internal statistics panel now has a combat defences section which should show: - Shield health - Armour health - Armour rating - plus the damage resistances to all 3 types for both - Railgun Ammo increased from 30 -> 80 (90->240 for the Imperial Hammer) - Railgun Firing heat reduced by 20% - HRP mass halved across the board, MRPs use this halved mass - Cytoscrambler improvement: 50% damage increase, damage falloff/range increased from 300/600 to 600/1000 Shields - Regeneration rates have been increased for the larger shields when broken. Size 1 & 2 have no effect, size 8 is double what it was - Regeneration rates when shields are active but have not recently taken damage are increased. It is now the maximum between what is was before (a fixed value for all sizes) and 25% of their broken regen (40% for biweave). This is lower than is was in beta - Reboot-repair now Bump-starts shields when it completes, reducing downtime waiting for them to return. The focus of this is out of combat, so it does not work if you move at above 50m/s or take a shot during the reboot

  • Dwight Marks

    Greetings commanders, Today we begin a special beta for the 2.2 series. **This beta will last into the new year and is focused around balance passes and game changes**. As previously mentioned, the vast majority of these updates for 2.2.03 are targeted towards the following subjects: * **Powerplay** and its associated AI along with mechanical changes of how Powerplay functions. * **Engineers update**: Extensive balancing tweaks and changes to promote a larger variety of recipes to use. Many additional changes are designed to smooth out the combat related blueprints. * **General Combat Balancing**: We hear you. We’ve begun the process of changing existing weapon meta to enable a far greater choice in how you, the commander, can outfit your ships for combat. While not an exhaustive list above, we’ve included a full list of changes below. Below are the starting changes for the 2.2.03 beta; **they are not final changes**. We’ll post further updates to patch notes in the 2.2.03 beta feedback forum due to the focused nature of this update series. Additionally, if you are using the standalone version of the Elite Dangerous Launcher, you can find the latest version of it here: http://hosting.zaonce.net/elite/Client-Installer.exe If you’re not using Steam to launch Elite Dangerous, you’ll need to be using the latest and greatest of our game patcher client! ----- #2.2.03 Change Log #Stability Fixes * Fix for a crash when dropping from orbit at Eafots LZ-H b10-0 D 1 * Crash fix for a rare case when hyperspacing out of a system that turns into an invalid state en route * Fix for outfitting crash when receiving a web response without a ship loadout in it * Fix a crash in the PlayerPOISpawner if the closest planet in the planet surface manager hasn't been found yet * Softlock loading in to a persistent POI in multiplayer situation fixed * Xbox One: Fixed low level cockpit GUI crash #General Tweaks/Fixes * Allow a mini USS bubble around Colonia * Fix transaction server error when clearing a save that had lots of exploration data * Reboot-repair now Bump-starts shields when it completes, reducing downtime waiting for them to return. Could also be used in other cases when the player is willing to accept the risk of being idle and defenceless for the duration to focus power on their shields * Shield restore from Reboot/Repair now requires you to be near stationary or it will fail (to prevent in-combat overuse), 50m/s threshold * If saving or autosaving while in supercruise, move the player well clear of star Jet Cones. You shouldn't ever reload back in after a hyperspace failure stuck in the cones anymore. Note that if you save/log out while in normal space, you will still be in the cone on your return, this safety check can't be used to escape once you've already made a mistake, it's just covering for failures that aren't the player's fault * Added a warning message when a non-flown ship is being scanned * Fixed "Ship scan detected" warning not always appearing * Fix for NPC voice volume slider not working in the audio options * Wings matchmaking improvements * Allow Reload time in Outfitting to be shown to the nearest 1 decimal place rather than rounded to whole seconds * Added some system metadata for the five starsystems holding refuelling bases between the Sol bubble and Colonia * Crew rank does not update on the contacts or ship GUI after ranking up fixed * Fixed missing cyrillic glyphs in module and systems panel * Avoid tinting weapon impacts on environmental surfaces * Fix for the POIs getting stuck loading due to the ReplicatedLevelContainer not activating its advance phase * Allow Reload time in Outfitting to be shown to the nearest 1 decimal place rather than rounded to whole seconds * Don't clear legal state after a cargo scan! This will make the cockpit "Wanted" warning vanish! * Warning message now appears when player scans fighter or mothership with Kill warrant or Manifest scanner * Fixed a rare cause of triggering the ship rebuy screen when docking an SRV at a planet base * Fixed outfitting with multiple purchases of bobbleheads * Xbox One: Don't show nameless scoreboard entries. If we have data for a player without a name, then don't add it to the score summary * Xbox One: Where we have axis bindings, unhide the +/ * button bindings so they can be rebound. Also make all flight control axes invertible * Xbox One: Don't handle a protocol activation if we're resetting or disconnecting. This means if we accept one while suspended, we won't process it until we've gone through a full reset and reconnected, at which point we should be able to safely join the session > * #Passengers * Added passenger seating allocation to allow passengers to be assigned outside of mission board #Missions * Added a new mission type for investigating the ancient ruins * Make supply to demand overrides take max distance into account (Stops Colonia making missions which intend to only go 500ly into missions to pop back to the bubble with a ~24 time limit) * Reduce number of missions sent to clients as we're only sending relevant missions now * Increased maximum mission duration to 28 days * Fix elite rank point calculations from missions so that they are a % of any mission profit earned #Weapons * Link Gimbal weapon tracking to the sensitivity of ship sensors. Does not affect CQC/Fighters/Non-main-ships * Rather than permanently disabling guidance on torpedoes, it now scrambles them for a short time (randomly between 2 and 8 seconds), after which they will re-acquire a lock and turn back in to engage * Emissive Munitions duration reduced to 30% of what it was, and capped much shorter for missiles * Emissive Munitions Scale reduced vastly, it will still guarantee visibility but no longer maxes out gimbal tracking at all ranges * Feedback Cascade no longer provides a fixed 90% reduction to healing, instead each hit reduces the healing rate by an amount proportional to damage capped at -90% as before. Exact number of hits to reach the cap varies based on size of weapon and shield cell, but will typically be 2-3 (requiring either high skill or multiple railguns) and up to 5 for smaller weapons against size 8 cell banks * Fixed multicannon Clips increased to 100 (from 90) * Fixed/gimbal multicannon reload times adjusted for consistency (generally buffed), fixed are now 4s, gimballed 5s (from an inconsistent 4s/5s mix) * Fixed cannon clip size increased to 6 (from 5) * Fixed cannon reload time reduced to 3 (from 4) * Fixed cannon ammo reserve size increased to 120 (from 100) * All fixed pulse/burst/beam weapons have 10% reduced WEP drain * Gimbal/Turret cannon damage increased by 15% * Fixed cannon damage increased by 25% * Plasma Accelerator reload times reuced to 6s (from 8) * Plasma Accelerator damage increased by 10% * Plasma Accelerators now deal Absolute damage * Reactor power draw for beams reduced 10% * WEP draw of burst lasers reduced by 15% (on top of fixed weapons as mentioned earlier) * Slugshot Armour piercing reduced to 15/25/35 for Small/Med/Large (from 20/35/52) * Slugshot reload time reduced to 2.5s (from 5s) * Slugshot ammo reserve doubled (to 180 from 90) * When scaling Weapon Range up in an engineered recipe , we now display that the projectile speed has increased * When scaling Weapon Range down in an engineered recipe, we no longer scale down the Damage Falloff start, nor the projectile speed * Clip size modifications now always round the clip up to avoid overly punishing small-clip weapons, and the modifier is not shown if it will have no effect * Increase damage buff for Short Range to 45% (+5%) so that it is competitive with Overcharged and Rapid fire for raw damage,but with different tradeoffs #Powerplay * Powerplay consolidation feature added * Powerplay assassins removed * Powerplay pirates no longer spawn in exploited systems * Powerplay pirates must align with an opposing superpower to that of the controlling power * When a crime worthy of an authority response is committed between two ships (NPC or player) who are each pledged to a power, effectively reduce the security level of the system for the purposes of considering strength of response and delay * Power security and pirate ships must now scan for powerplay vouchers, to check for powerplay cargo, and concerning which powers will get involved based on the player's power 1. Power Security NPCs attack ships of opposing powers (different major faction) if they are locally wanted, they have powerplay vouchers issued by the controlling power of the system, or are carrying any powerplay commodity relevant to the controlling power of the system. They can not be appeased with cargo drops 1. PowersPirate NPCs attack ships of the same power as the controlling power of the system if they are wanted, carrying any powerplay vouchers, or carrying any powerplay cargo (any power). They can be appeased by cargo drops as long as the attack was due to cargo, not bounty or vouchers 1. Ships not meeting these criteria will be left alone, even if pledged to a power * New chatter lines added to support changed behavious * Ensure PowersSecurity ships are given an FSD interdictor by the auto-loadout system * Updating the balance on AI ambient power play ships, as well as tweaking some of Famine and Outbreak AI ships * When Opposing Control or Undermining a hostile power, vouchers will only be issued when destroying NPC ships from the defending power * Cargo used for Opposing Control or Undermining a friendly power will now only count for 1 merit when delivered * Voting for logistics consolidation becomes available at Rank 2 after supporting a power for 4 weeks. The number of votes increases to 5 after supporting a power for 16 weeks * Replaced the 18 second threaten timer on PowersSecurity ships with a 2 second one (they appeared to be broken right after scanning, which was undesirable behaviour). Also adjusted standard Bounty Hunter AI to be the same

  • Kelsi Baumbach

    >A Supreme Court judge will be nominated by the next president. Do you think Trump will nominate someone who is against gay marriage? Excellent question! I have thought about this a lot. The Trump movement has systematically eliminated hatred for LGBTQ-Americans amongst the overwhelming majority of Republicans (see RNC when Peter Thiel said he was proud to be gay or when Trump made pro-LGBTQ statements and the crowd yelled "help is on the way! help is on the way!"). Those left (the anti-Trumpers) remain steadfast to their refusal to accept **ALL** Americans, but that no longer represents the majority of Republicans...nor the majority of Democrat voters (they have their own [anti-equality](https://youtu.be/fZkK2_6H9MM) members, but that doesn't represent the majority) and over-archingly LGBT-Americans are slowly being more and more accepted in American society. This safety in numbers factor means that the majority of Americans now believe in equality, and any infraction upon that is responeded to by **YUGE** numbers of people reaching well beyond the LGBTQ community (look at North Carolina loosing business and having massive outrage when they tried to pass anti-LGBT legistaltion). So if a Supreme Court Justice had a personal negative feeling/thought against LGBT-equality, there would be social pressure to ensure that they didn't extend their personal beliefs into their legal decisions. **As an LGBT-American, I actually would prefer that the government get the heck out of my bedroom and personal life all-together. It shouldn't be their business who I live with, what my relationship to that person is, whether I have a girlfriend or boyfriend, one partner or many partners, married or not married, single or douple ply toilet paper....these are not things my government (espeically federal government) should have ANY say or even documentation of. Who I associate with is none of their business unless I commit a crime or conspire with someone to commit a crime!** To answer your question, at this point it's not as big of a worry as it was a decade ago, or even six months ago. Now the majority of voters, Demorcats and Republicans alike now support equality for **ALL** Americans and I think that offers considerable protection that we didn't have six months or a year ago. Here are some of the many reasons I support President Trump as an LGBT-American: Not only is [Trump](https://www.reddit.com/r/AskThe_Donald/comments/50rtrm/how_to_explain_to_a_democrat_why_they_should/) the most supportive Republican in history for LGBT equality, but he has supported us for decades! According to the [New York Times](http://www.nytimes.com/2016/04/23/us/politics/donald-trump-gay-rights.html), Trump "donated to charities focused on the AIDS crisis in the late 1980s and early ’90s" and in year 2000 gave an interview in which he [supported](https://i.sli.mg/CETmGd.png) amending the 1964 Civil Rights Act to “include a ban of discrimination based on sexual orientation.” Here's a quick summary of some of the many reasons LGBT Americans such as myself would want to **VOTE [TRUMP](https://www.reddit.com/r/The_Donald/comments/58dzpq/how_to_explain_trumps_policies_please_share/)**: * Same sex/LGBT couples are specifically named as able to receive benefits under Trump's [child](https://www.donaldjtrump.com/positions/child-care-reforms-that-will-make-america-great-again) and [adult](https://assets.donaldjtrump.com/CHILD_CARE_FACT_SHEET.pdf) care policy. The policy also names adoptive parents, foster parents, and legal guardians as able to benefit. Despite some media claiming it would reinforce gender roles and force only woman to take care of kids, the benefits can actually be paid to **ANYONE** that you trust to take care of your loved one (up to the fair value for care in your state, applied to any family making less than $500,000 and with extra protections and help for really low-income families). * "As your President, I will do everything in my power to protect our [LGBTQ citizens](https://www.reddit.com/r/The_Donald/comments/4zgest/shitposting_around_the_world_day_75_lgbt_equality/) from the violence and oppression of a hateful foreign ideology." -[Trump at the RNC](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c3sRAA1o4t0&feature=youtu.be&t=44s) (crowd replies "help is on the way! Help is on the way! and Trump says that "as a Republican, it is so good to hear you cheering for what I just said, thank you," and the crowd goes wild...that is a huge historical moment for our country, LGBT citizens, and the transformation of the Republican party into one of greater acceptance). * The Trump movement changed a hateful Republican party, who has historically been anti-LGBT, into a party which cheered for [Peter Thiel](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UTJB8AkT1dk) when he said that he was proud to be gay. * Trump spoke in opposition to the [North Carolina bathroom law](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3dXBeUxvkW8) and has repeatedly said that people can use the bathroom they think is most appropriate in Trump Tower. Regarding the North Carolina bathroom law, Trump said "there have been very few complaints the way it is. People go, they use the bathroom that they feel is appropriate, there has been so little trouble..." and advocated not passing devisive legislation one way or the other on the topic. * Trump was for equal marriage opportunities for LGBT couples [before Hillary](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fZkK2_6H9MM). * "[We will no longer surrender this country or its people to the false song of globalism](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EOyma_8dFm0)." This will protect us from people who hate us for being LGBT (or other minority). * Trump also has a number of [other policies](http://sli.mg/a/1fvMnT) that benefit all Americans, regardless of gender, color, or other category. Let's Make America Great Again for **EVERYONE!!!** * Trump wants to represent **[ALL](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aC0_5YSAJyc&feature=youtu.be&t=6s) of us [EQUALLY](https://i.sli.mg/0y3bxv.png)!!!** As an American, I am proud to support Mr. Donald J. [Trump](https://www.reddit.com/r/AskThe_Donald/comments/50rtrm/how_to_explain_to_a_democrat_why_they_should/) because he represents a movement that is aimed at improving our country for **EVERYONE**. * No more [unvetted](https://www.numbersusa.com/news/fbi-repeats-warning-us-cant-conduct-thorough-background-checks-syrian-refugees) refugees, and to help refugees be able to safely return to their homes by establishing safe zones so that people do not have to leave their homes, businesses, belongings, etc... * No more unsecured borders (President Nieto of Mexico [agrees](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rtt198LweoU) that securing the border would benefit both the United States and Mexico in protection from cartels, drug trafficking, human trafficking, spread of diseases, etc...). * No [going to war](https://www.reddit.com/r/The_Donald/comments/59jjo1/happy_birthday_hillwe_havent_forgotten_your/d98xptb/) unless absolutely necessary for our national security. * No more ignoring the [problems](https://www.youtube.com/v/GdDcw9VMMic) happening in our [inner cities](http://www.cnsnews.com/news/article/ali-meyer/unemployment-among-black-youth-393-higher-national-rate). * No more [ignoring the needs](http://www.breitbart.com/2016-presidential-race/2016/08/18/trump-visits-louisiana-flood-victims-as-hillary-rests-and-obama-vacations/) of American communities. * No more ignoring or downplaying [attacks against Americans](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2016_Orlando_nightclub_shooting#Phone_calls_and_negotiations), no matter what the identity politic of the victims. **We need to address these problems and make our country safe and prosperous for ALL Americans.** **VOTE TRUMP!!!**

  • Adrien Hintz

    Greetings Commannders, I’m just posting up to confirm that we have an update making its way to you this morning. The servers will be going down at 10:45 AM GMT and will be down for approximately 2 - 4 hours. We’ll let you know if there are any unexpected delays on this thread. I’d like to take a moment to thank all of the people who took part in the beta. The support is invaluable, thank you so much. The update is going live to Xbox One and PC. Here’s the juicy change log.... 2.2.03 Change Log Stability Fixes - Fix for crash when dropping from orbit at Eafots LZ-H b10-0 D 1 - Crash fix for a rare case when hyperspacing out of a system that turns into an invalid state en route - Fix for outfitting crash when receiving a web response without a ship loadout in it - Fix a crash in the PlayerPOISpawner if the closest planet in the planet surface manager hasn't been found yet - Softlock loading in to a persistent POI in multiplayer situation fixed - Prevent mission server softlock - Fix some memory stomping reading JSON response for the ship list when transferring a remote ship - Powerplay page softlocks on selecting power in turmoil fixed - Fixed crash caused by the engineer crafting manager trying to callback on the workshop GUI after it has been closed - Fix crash in role switch panel - Xbox One: Fixed low level cockpit GUI crash General Tweaks/Fixes - Added new DTS Headphone X functionality - Allow a mini USS bubble around Colonia - Fix transaction server error when clearing a save that had lots of exploration data - Committing a murder while in a fighter now results in being attacked by the Authority following a scan - If saving or autosaving while in supercruise, move the player well clear of star Jet Cones. You shouldn't ever reload back in after a hyperspace failure stuck in the cones anymore. Note that if you save/log out while in normal space, you will still be in the cone on your return, this safety check can't be used to escape once you've already made a mistake, it's just covering for failures that aren't the player's fault - Added a warning message when a non-flown ship is being scanned - Fixed "Ship scan detected" warning not always appearing - Fix for NPC voice volume slider not working in the audio options - Allow Reload time in Outfitting to be shown to the nearest 1 decimal place rather than rounded to whole seconds - Added some system metadata for the five starsystems holding refuelling bases between the Sol bubble and Colonia - Crew rank does not update on the contacts or ship GUI after ranking up fixed - Fixed missing cyrillic glyphs in module and systems panel - Avoid tinting weapon impacts on environmental surfaces - Fix for the POIs getting stuck loading due to the ReplicatedLevelContainer not activating its advance phase - Allow Reload time in Outfitting to be shown to the nearest 1 decimal place rather than rounded to whole seconds - Don't clear legal state after a cargo scan! This will make the cockpit "Wanted" warning vanish! - Warning message now appears when player scans fighter or mothership with Kill warrant or Manifest scanner - Fixed a rare cause of triggering the ship rebuy screen when docking an SRV at a planet base - Fixed outfitting with multiple purchases of bobbleheads - Added new Military slots to applicable ships along with loc strings and hit sphere locations for them - Fixed descriptions for engineer related commodities - Fixed (r) and (tm) glyph not being parsed correctly from loc files - Xbox One: Don't show nameless scoreboard entries. If we have data for a player without a name, then don't add it to the score summary - Xbox One: Where we have axis bindings, unhide the +/- button bindings so they can be rebound. Also make all flight control axes invertible - Xbox One: Don't handle a protocol activation if we're resetting or disconnecting. This means if we accept one while suspended, we won't process it until we've gone through a full reset and reconnected, at which point we should be able to safely join the session - Various text fixes - Latest localisation updates included Passengers - Added passenger seating allocation to allow passengers to be assigned outside of mission board - Updated the timescale of the Long Distance Expedition template to be 28 days - Updated the bonus rewards from passenger demanded cargo - this makes the reward more worth while for the player Missions - Added a new mission type for investigating the ancient ruins - Make supply to demand overrides take max distance into account (Stops Colonia making missions which intend to only go 500ly into missions to pop back to the bubble with a ~24 time limit) - Reduce number of missions sent to clients as we're only sending relevant missions now - Increased maximum mission duration to 28 days - Fix elite rank point calculations from missions so that they are a % of any mission profit earned - Fix the mission generation iteration limitor as it was preventing missions from spawning and thus decreasing board size - Make sure that missions are properly transferred to the ship transactions panel after boarding from an SRV - Fix for lack of Exquisite Focus Crystals as a mission reward - Fix data message IDs at all ancient sites for the associated mission so that the codex scans actually trigger an inbox message - Added mission limit to the ancient ruins mission - Fixed mission progress elements in the ancient ruins template to actually show the inbox messages as the data is discovered - Reduced the reputation reward for the ancient ruin mission when handed in and not fully completed - Added a bonus reputation reward for full ancient ruin mission completion - Massacre Conflict missions will only accept conflict zone targets - Add additional logging to inbox messages to try to find out why we're receiving a reply for a message we don't have anymore - Fixed codex with blank entries and Tweaked active codex numbers sot hat more are active at a time - Fixed an incorrectly set boolean preventing multiple rewards from a single success point New Module - Module Reinforcement Pack (MRP) added, in the same sizes/classes as HRPs, designed to protect modules against external attacks piercing the hull - Integrity of all MRPs approximately 15% higher than beta. MRPs now have a multiplier to make them much more easy to repair with an AMFU to offset their huge health pools, each unit of AFM ammo repaired restores 10x as much health to an MRP as it will to other modules Weapons - Rather than permanently disabling guidance on torpedoes, ECM now gives an enormous kick onto a new trajectory and scrambles them for a short time (randomly between 5 and 10 seconds), after which they will re-acquire a lock and turn back in to engage - Fixed multicannon Clips increased to 100 (from 90) - Fixed/gimbal multicannon reload times adjusted for consistency (generally buffed), fixed are now 4s, gimballed 5s (from an inconsistent 4s/5s mix) - Fixed cannon damage increased by 25% - Fixed cannon clip size increased to 6 (from 5) - Fixed cannon reload time reduced to 3 (from 4) - Fixed cannon ammo reserve size increased to 120 (from 100) - Gimbal/Turret cannon damage increased by 15% - All fixed pulse/burst/beam weapons have 10% reduced WEP drain - WEP draw of burst lasers reduced by 10-15% (on top of fixed weapons as mentioned earlier). This has been adjusted so that pulse and burst weapons have essentially the same final DPE, and represent a tradeoff between DPS and power/heat - Plasma Accelerator reload times reduced to 6s (from 8) - Plasma Accelerator damage increased - Damage split for Plasma accelerators changed from a kinetic thermal split to 60% absolute/20% kinetic/20% thermal (reduced from 100% absolute in beta), this means they partially ignore any damage resistance - Reactor power draw for beams reduced 10% - Frag Cannon base damage and hardness piercing adjusted to maintain the same damage against large ship hulls, but get a 15% bonus against small ships and shields - Frag Cannon ammo reserve doubled (to 180 from 90) - Clip size modifications now always round the clip up to avoid overly punishing small-clip weapons, and the modifier is not shown if it will have no effect - Increased fighter weapon hardness piercing - Internal statistics panel now has a combat defences section which should show: - Shield health - Armour health - Armour rating - plus the damage resistances to all 3 types for both - Railgun Ammo increased from 30 -> 80 (90->240 for the Imperial Hammer) - Railgun Firing heat reduced by 20% - HRP mass halved across the board, MRPs use this halved mass - Cytoscrambler improvement: 50% damage increase, damage falloff/range increased from 300/600 to 600/1000 Shields - Regeneration rates have been increased for the larger shields when broken. Size 1 & 2 have no effect, size 8 is double what it was - Regeneration rates when shields are active but have not recently taken damage are increased. It is now the maximum between what is was before (a fixed value for all sizes) and 25% of their broken regen (40% for biweave). This is lower than is was in beta - Reboot-repair now Bump-starts shields when it completes, reducing downtime waiting for them to return. The focus of this is out of combat, so it does not work if you move at above 50m/s or take a shot during the reboot

  • Lonny Williamson

    Have you checked her Senate voting record? Here's a few of the bills she sponsored or co-sponsored: Sponsored a paycheck fairness act "A bill to amend the Fair Labor Standards Act of 1938 to provide more effective remedies to victims of discrimination in the payment of wages on the basis of sex, and for other purposes." https://www.govtrack.us/congress/bills/111/s182 Sponsored "A bill to amend title XIX of the Social Security Act to establish a State plan option under Medicaid to provide an all-inclusive program of care for children who are medically fragile or have one or more chronic conditions that impede their ability to function." https://www.govtrack.us/congress/bills/110/s3631 >A bill to amend part D of title IV of the Social Security Act to prohibit States from charging child support recipients for the collection of child support. https://www.govtrack.us/congress/bills/110/s3706 Lead based housing act to "amend the Residential Lead-Based Paint Hazard Reduction Act of 1992 to define environmental intervention blood lead level, and for other purposes." https://www.govtrack.us/congress/bills/110/s3609 >A bill to amend title XIX of the Social Security Act to establish a State plan option under Medicaid to provide an all-inclusive program of care for children who are medically fragile or have one or more chronic conditions that impede their ability to function. https://www.govtrack.us/congress/bills/110/s3631 >A bill to amend the Internal Revenue Code of 1986 to provide a refundable credit against income tax to assist individuals with high residential energy costs, and for other purposes. https://www.govtrack.us/congress/bills/110/s3561 The Pediatric Research Improvement Act: https://www.govtrack.us/congress/bills/110/s993 Military Family and Leave act: https://www.govtrack.us/congress/bills/110/s1898 Pro-Vets act of 2008 "to provide veterans with individualized notice about available benefits, to streamline application processes for the benefits, and for other purposes." https://www.govtrack.us/congress/bills/110/s3307 Few more: S. 1240 (110th): Compassionate Assistance for Rape Emergencies Act of 2007 S. 1075 (110th): Unintended Pregnancy Reduction Act of 2007 A bill to expand access to contraceptive services for women and men under the Medicaid program, help low income women and couples prevent unintended pregnancies and reduce abortion. S. 907 (110th): GEDI Act – a bill to establish an Advisory Committee on Gestational Diabetes, to provide grants to better understand and reduce gestational diabetes. S.Res. 6S.Res. 542 (110th): A resolution designating April 2008 as “National STD Awareness Month”.06 (110th): A resolution designating June 27, 2008, as National HIV Testing Day. S. 2415 (110th): Protection Against Transmission of HIV for Women and Youth Act of 2007 S. 3541 (110th): Iraqi Refugee and Internally Displaced Persons Humanitarian Assistance, Resettlement, and Security Act of 2008 S. 2244 (110th): Lead Elimination, Abatement, and Poisoning Prevention Act of 2007 S. 2175 (110th): Family Asthma Act S. 2005 (110th): Secondhand Smoke Education and Outreach Act of 2007 S. 895 (110th): Children’s Health First Act S.Res. 485 (109th): A resolution to express the sense of the Senate concerning the value of family planning for American women. S. 1911 (110th): TCE Reduction Act of 2008 A bill to amend the Safe Drinking Water Act to protect the health of susceptible populations, including pregnant women, infants, and children, by requiring a health advisory, drinking water standard, and reference concentration for trichloroethylene vapor intrusion, and for other purposes. S. 3609 (110th): Lead-Safe Housing for Kids Act of 2008 S. 2877 (110th): Pediatric, Adolescent, and Young Adult Cancer Survivorship Research and Quality of Life Act of 2008 S. 1712 (110th): Screening for Health of Infants and Newborns Act S. 766 (110th): Paycheck Fairness Act A bill to amend the Fair Labor Standards Act of 1938 to provide more effective remedies of victims of discrimination in the payment of wages on the basis of sex, and for other purposes. S. 3706 (110th): Elimination of the Single Parent Tax Act of 2008 To prohibit States from charging child support recipients for the collection of child support. S. 3502 (110th): Children’s Environmental Health and Safety Risk Reduction Act S. 993 (110th): Pediatric Research Improvement Act S. 1063 (110th): Protecting Military Family Financial Benefits Act of 2007 S. 1065 (110th): Heroes at Home Act of 2007 S. 1898 (110th): Military Family and Medical Leave Act S. 968 (109th): Federal Public Safety Officer Surviving Spouse Protection Act of 2005 A bill to provide that spouses of Federal public safety officers who are killed in the line of duty, may remarry and continue to receive a survivor annuity. S. 820 (110th): Choices in Child Care Act S. 661 (110th): Kinship Caregiver Support Act S.Res. 566 (109th): A resolution expressing the sense of the Senate concerning the importance of preventing child abuse and neglect before they occur and achieving permanency and stability for children who must experience foster care. S.Res. 345 (108th): A resolution expressing the Sense of the Senate that Congress should expand the supports and services available to grandparents and other relatives who are raising children when their biological parents have died or can no longer take care of them. S. 2053 (109th): Home Lead Safety Tax Credit Act of 2005 S. 1757 (109th): A bill to amend the Internal Revenue code of 1986 to make residents of Puerto Rico eligible for the refundable portion of the child tax credit. S. 802 (108th): Code Adam Act A bill to establish procedures in public buildings regarding missing or lost children. S. 1539 (107th): Protecting America’s Children Against Terrorism Act http://www.dailykos.com/story/2016/2/18/1487116/-Hillary-Clinton-s-Long-Committed-Record-Advocating-For-Women-and-Children

  • Neil Padberg

    0:17, picking shield regen. You already have an auriel, all of the opposing team has innate high damage that can break shield in a second. That means that you will only use it for regen in the earlier stages of the game. The team with aba will almost certainly lose the early game. Choose locust to scale longer or mines damage to prevent roams by tracer and ming. 0:21, bad mines placement. Always the earliest ones in fog. Early scout to prevent mid-btm rotation is always better than mines mid to counterpush, especially against a guldan who can 3 shot waves. 0:27, change to quickcast. Quick spikes = more damage. 0:41, wasting a mine mid. 0:54, mine btm accomplishes nothing, mine path from btm towards mid to prevent medic rotation. 1:30, missed due to lack of quickcast. 1:43, wrong target to symbiote, q onto the tower to prevent that slight edge of damage. 1:54, mine up twice btm lane vents. If it hits medic, even better. Preferably split the 2 mines between vents to the west and bottom this will force dismounts that can save you 3-4 seconds. 1:58, raynor started to rotate, dig up now. 2:12, slow to symbiote. use quickcast. 2:18, she's totally out of range, exit symbiote. 2:23, shield lasting forever is a little iffy. Global range mines or additional mines will aid you during late game and mid game respectively. 2:28 you started to dig, you lost about 3 creeps that died to tower and 3 creeps that died to their creeps, 6 creeps in total. Preemptively dig. Also mine first before digging. 2:51, wrong target, they have no reach to kill liming. Push out mid. 3:31, shield regen only lasts 4 ticks, swap once you healed. Also you picked shield lasting, just shield and leave. 3:45, no reason to help btm. Soak mid instead. 4:00, wrong minion to symbiote. Cast on caster to get w damage in. Focus on melee minion taking most damage to reduce damage done to your own creeps. Also, valla just arrived at your lane, you should have digged mid to soak instead. 4:30, always take slow mines. Slow mines just make it so that perfect rotations are impossible for tracer and ming without requiring heals. However, since you already taking shields at 1 and 4, this pick is warranted. 5:15, bad mines placement as usual, mid-top vents and btm-mid vents should be mined up 100% of the time. 5:31, didn't cast q. And then you missed it. use quickcast. 5:37, random mine placement. 6:14, bad mine placement, put it a little north so that creeps doesn't kill it. Or towards their west vents. 6:30, dig btm and force guldan to rotate back. Your team is starting to engage. 6:39, you chose to symbiote instead of ult. If morales didn't mess grenade up, guldan would have died. 6:58 symbioting instead of digging btm. 7:14, wrong lane to dig. 7:30, random spam of mines. 7:40, you should bodymove down btm whilst checking for mid. 7:51, no reason to ult now if they are so far back and falstad isn't capable of flight-gusting. 8:04, really bad valla micro. aa then q 8:15, still checking on mid when there's nothing to do. 8:26 don't dig and symbiote, do one or the other. In this case, body soaking btm and then symbioting top would be the better choice. 9:03, wat. 9:08, wrong target to aa. medic is oom, pushing tracer to e or liming that is low is the correct choice. 9:25, once you symbiote bubble, leave, they aren't going to melee range your team. 9:40, aim for the 1 shot away caster minion instead of the 50% melee creep. 9:48, start to move btm towards their side. 9:53, they want to engage, you can probably just exit and ult. 10:04, lol. You know the problem. 10:06, mass mines. 10:12 still not ulting the falstad or valla. 10:22, waste of ult. If they are utterly suicidal, just let them die. 10:36, walking btm instead of going top vents and digging btm. 10:41, symbioting a lane that you are already soaking. 10:52, random mines. Force them to reveal themselves by putting mines onto their side of the vents, aa reveals. 10:58, same issue. If you take shield lasting max duration, just e and leave. 11:11, dig btm. 11:18, wasting 3 seconds instead of immediately exiting. 11:23, random mine. 11:28, bad powerthrow. good bodyblock however. 11:38, you need to immediately throw q out and kite backwards. 11:46, no reason to focus top, go for btm. 11:58, wrong symbiote target. 12:10, shield died, exit it. Wasted 2s. 12:31, you symbioted to shield for a mediocre amount and damage keep by like 400, dig btm spawn locust and then symbiote top. 12:38, you do not need to symbiote. If your falstad doesn't flight gust, do not attempt to chase with your ult. Why? Because gates are still up and you guys have utter lack of cc. 12:47, don't fly in. Doing as much siege damage as possible should be the priority here. 12:52, don't symbiote for a push. Shield and go. Soak btm, move your body up mid, mine up btm vents so that tracer can't roam to you. 13:05, random dig top. Then you base 6s after. 13:36, bad location to dig on so many levels. If they are chasing you are putting yourself in their path, you are not soaking, you are not causing visible threat so they have to defend. 14:03, dig btm, symbiote top. 14:15, first time you used your locusts after picking it. Once you take locusts you can solo mercs, do realise that. You taking btm mercs would have won you btm keep by now. 14:15, same issue. You are forcing threat by doing a visible symbiote. However, vents are not mined and if tracer didn't expose top now, you would have died. 14:38, ult instead of symbiote, you need the damage to kill them before they kill your falstad. Symbiote does significally less damage and shield hps doesn't tick, not against direct damage. 15:15, shield broke. leaving and tick the cd for a reshield. 15:25 bad choice to dig. They are all mia, even with 2 dead, you can't expect them to not be just behind that wall. Mid has safe soak, go there and mine up west vents. 15:31, mines push isn't needed. 15:43 stayed too long in symbiote, shield and leave. 16:16, save your locusts cd till after punisher gets aggro. 16:34, safety dig instead of going top. 16:40, staying on symbiote, you need to exit and ult now before valla dies. 16:55, wrong target to symbiote, go on valla. 17:05, you are trying to end the game there, why did you get locust nest.

  • Sidney Parisian

    Your "noobisness", pardon the term, makes you want stuff you wouldn't actually want if you knew a bit more about vaping. For example, the reason it would be better to pick a mod with those "crappy door magnets" you want to avoid is that they're not just comfy, but also a **security feature** someone who doesn't want a mod "exploding on his face" (like you said) would prefer compared to screws. Why? If your battery vents inside your mod, the pressure would make the mods door pop out - the magnets wouldn't be THAT strong to keep it in place. **IF** it's kept in place, say, by having four beefy, tight screws keeping it steady, your mod would turn into a hand grenade - instead of the door, and then the batteries, flying off, in a worst case scenario, ALL of it would break up and bits and pieces would forcefully impale anything living, dead or undead in the vicinity. It would be like Hell on Earth. Scorched land, burning bodies, people crying around... Nah, kidding. But, anyways, that was only about the mod's door. Regarding the batteries themselves, it would be better to pick up a mod with **removable** batteries. Why? Because no, you **can't** have your cake and eat it too. You **can't** have a unit with an internal battery, that's screwed in there tight, and **also** have it be easily serviceable - even by the user. Think of it like smartphones: if you care about using your phone in the long term, would you pick one where **you** can easily pop off the back cover and replace the battery, or one with an integrated, proprietary battery, only an "official service spot" would be able to change for you - of course, for a fee? I mention that 'cause, unfortunately, batteries usually **don't** come with mods or kits that allow their removal. You have to buy them separately. You can find retail outlets that pack batteries (and juices, and stickers, and their grandma) with a mod you pick, but it's better picking the batteries separately from a trusted battery (and **only** battery, as in "specializing in them") retailer. Like ilumn.com (for USA) or nkon.nl (for Europe). Apart from all of that, you can forget the concept of "a mod that will last a long time", "that is user serviceable" and that "you will be able to keep using in one year". It doesn't work this way in this industry. You see, everything changes every two or three months. New things appear. New technology. New concepts. I've got FOUR mods I bought just last year. Two of them - and they were the most expensive of the bunch - are already outdated, can't be updated and, as such, are "yesterday's tech". To return to the smartphone analogy, ANYTHING you buy today will look like the first iPhone in just six months or, at most, one year: good enough, but leagues behind everything else in the market. This is one of the main reasons most vaping gear companies have shitty QC. I mean, really, why bother making sure something will work in one year, if its owner will (probably, according to their logic) have jumped to something else in half that time? And so, instead of trying to create a good and sturdy device that will last a lifetime (like VW's Beetle, to use a car example), they go for feature-richness and design. We're at a point where a company must royally screw up for its gear to end up blowing up, "safety" is not really a tech problem but usually user error (there are exceptions - like the IPV 400 / 6s not having reverse battery protection), so the "cheap shit will blow up on my face" argument doesn't really matter anymore and you're left with the "let's see how many weeks this will keep working" problem to consider. Notice the "most" in the beginning of the last paragraph. Because there **are** exeptions to this as well but, hey, "you'd prefer to keep everything under $100 - $150". Once more, you can't have your cake and eat it too. You could pick up a Dicodes mod, sleek, sturdy, but you wouldn't call them "feature-rich" compared to other options out there, plus you'd have to pay **at least** double what you're thinking **only** for the mod. Or you could pick a HexxOhm. Same thing - no "features" you'd expect from mods like SMOK's Alien, but sturdy **and** "user serviceable" (up to a point - its chip could always bork). It would cost you... er... around **all** the money you think of spending. Yeah, just the mod. It's like asking for a car that will last as long as the Beetle, go as fast as a Veyron and fit the whole family and dog, also having a toilet and a home cinema system, "and please make it around the price of an old Lada". No can do, sorries. BUT, think positive: you can pick up SMOK's Alien kit, that looks, if not awesome, at least "alright", plus four batteries, plus a charger, for around $100. It would last you at least 3 to 6 months, if it doesn't end up having some serious manufacturing flaw (up to now they seem okay according to their owners). IF it breaks in three to six months, you can buy a new mod, with the same or even more features, for around 40 to 50 bucks. For that's the price of the mod, itself, without the batteries, charger, atomizer and rest of stuffs. And keep using the rest of stuff you got. If it keeps working after the 3 to 6 months period? Awesome! Buy a new atomizer instead, to try new things out and maybe get started on rebuilding. Rinse, repeat. Yeah, it sounds like it sucks, but going back to the car example, if everyone bought Beetles, and they kept *not* having problems, and everyone was happy with them, nobody else would be making new cars - only beetles. And since people would be happy with them, their creators wouldn't *really* try to improve them and add new features. They would, of course, but it would take a lot more time compared to how things are today, where your next car will probably have GPS navigation and some form of auto-pilot as standard.

  • Louvenia Rodriguez

    >Where should I be placing my mines? in general: rotation spots into the jungle so people can see ganks coming, and enemy gets dismounted and takes longer. extra points for placing mines at the right distance such that they get dismounted: walk, remount, and get dismounted again. you will just get a feel for this over time. during objective, try to put mines around it to help team, if it's a big map like hollow/shrines put mines down then burrow to opposite lane to soak. if you have the lvl 1 bomb talent, you can also use bombs to soak a lane you are not bodysoaking/hatting, although it's sometimes a waste of a bomb: the 3s dot helps you secure the XP without using a load of them. i would only do this though if i have already a couple of safety bombs for myself, and am out of range to help objective with bombs. >To soak efficiently, should I be digging to a secure spot in an empty lane generally, yes. sitting in a bush within vision radius of minion wave is good, especially when there is an objective up. still: be careful of ganks if you can't see all enemies at objective. mines help with this. at lvl 7, slowing mines are a lifesaver when you are positioning aggressively for soak: you see gank coming, they are slowed. and if they find you, having some mines to make them run over can allow you to escape. real lifesaver. one thing you might not know: you don't need to be in a bush to be "safe". if you sit just behind your archer minions, you can soak the wave without being seen by their minions, just move up/back as the wave progresses, and be vigilant with your mines to give you an escape route if you are caught. if you look how far your minion wave gives you vision behind their archers, you know how far behind your own archers to sit. actually sometimes being in a bush can be more revealing than behind behind your own minion wave: as the locust comes out and attacks at an angle revealing which bush you are/were in. if you are behind the wave it looks simply as though you are behind the fort wall. which brings me to: don't be afraid simply to sit behind the wall. especially if there are enemy globals are stealthies and you don't have a secure bombed location: or all lanes have presence in them. as long as you don't push the wave out too far, you will get XP from the tower shots at least. if burrow is off CD, or you are already bodysoaking, and an enemy minion wave reaches towers: do hat a tower while they kill the wave: you will get the soak for it fast. >Any additional tips you have would be appreciated vision is important of course: like sitting behind your minion wave. minions will not kill walls, and they do give a bit of vision, be careful not to reveal yourself by walking past a wall. if you walk directly through the very middle of the walls (where the gate was) you will not be seen. sometimes, if you want to burrow elsewhere, (and esp. if you have mines in the area where you were), it can be nice to purposefully reveal yourself for a second or so: go back into fog then burrow away. enemy will waste precious time hunting you because they thought they knew where you were, only to run into your old defence bombs. :) rehatting resets the hat ability cooldowns. if you did not spec into any hat talents: this is particularily effective (more Ws, more Qs over time). ideally, you want to find an opportunity to do some poke, hat->QWRQ->dehat. then find another target of opportunity to do poke. rehatting not only resets your cooldowns, but gives you an opportunity to reposition your hat and not rely on your target to be in the optimal place. it adds up over time, someone laning near minions? 2 hats and they are thinking of tapping well. all this damage adds up over time, very attrition like. even if it is not a no-support qm clownfest: you are taxing their supports mana pool, after all, aba has no mana. It's common for low heroes who are going back to well to stop and clear a minion wave or something on their way (regen globe and xp!) no no. aba makes minons dangerous. if they do that, they are dead :) when a target is alone and low, but out of hat range of a minion or something, and you really want to kill them, slapping is stylish, but ineffective. wait for your passive locust cd to reach 2-3s and burrow. you pop up next to them and plop out a locust immediately giving you a target to hat next to you so you can actually do some real damage. you can use locust swarm aswell of course. great for aba vs aba. hold onto locust swarm, when you see enemy aba, burrow, drop locust and kill with hat. dominance asserted. B channel takes 6 seconds, that means you can interrupt it with a bomb placed underneath an enemy. you can use that to stall a low, alone Bing enemy waiting for your locust CDs for the snipe. same with altar/trib channels, but you must put the bomb down as they start the channel or it will be too late. similarily, if you want to get 1 more locust out at the location before Bing to safety, wait for locust CD to be <6s then B. you will plop the locust just before returning to altar. aba with locust swarm (and nest) can solo siege camps, and take temples. make sure to slap the mercs first so they are aggrod before putting down locusts or they will just walk away to lane. with survival instincts you can also do bruiser camps. mercing with aba is only really an effective use of your time however if there is no fight going on and all keeps are down (or keeps are actively defended) as locusts are *useless* against the core, and terrible at depushing catapults. also with survival instincts and timing of your passive locust and nest: you can even solo the infernal shrines with some care. but again: you should judge whether that is an effective use of your time or not. can't really think of much else for now, but there you go. happy slugging.

  • Golden Raynor

    This is a problem with the 6s battery. I haven't seen this on any of my previous iphones (I've been jailbreaking since iOS 2, but I skipped the i4s and the i6). As far as I can tell, it doesn't matter if your phone is running with Cydia Substrate enabled or not. It will continue getting worse. I fixed it by replacing the battery in my 6s. Unfortunately, the way that Apple's battery health program works (the one that the geniuses will run on your phone when you take it to the genius bar to diagnose your battery) it is designed to ignore this particular type of battery failure / degradation. What happens is the 6s battery voltage drops more than it should when under a high current draw. You can prove this to yourself by downloading the BatteryLife app from cydia or the app store (same dev makes both). process: with battery around 30-70% 0. open BatteryLife. Check your voltage and your battery capacity percentage. 1. Run geekbench 4, send it to the background (it keeps running), and place a phone call to some number that you know has a very slow automated menu. 2. Send the call to the background and open up BatteryLife again. Wait for the voltage, current drain, and capacity to update. 3. hang out on this screen for 30 or 40 seconds. Notice how much the voltage drops. My capacity read-out would regularly drop to zero. Your phone may actually shut itself down. This is a low-voltage shutdown. It is a semi-graceful shut down, as the screen goes black (without the backlight going off) for a few seconds, and then the screen goes off. The phone will not turn on immediately after this sometimes (I think this is something that runs before iBoot that decides the voltage is too low to attempt a startup). Sometimes it will start to boot, and then shut down in the middle of it (this is a low-voltage shutdown caused by the high current draw during boot). Having it plugged in will make the boot successful almost always. If not, just wait 5 minutes. again, the solution is replacing the battery. A thing to watch for is that there are a bunch of 3rd-party iphone batteries that do not have temperature sensors or current sensors in them. If you install one of these batteries, it will report the same current and temperature all the time. This is very dangerous. As far as I can tell, the temperature sensor in the battery is the only temperature measurement that will cause a high-temp shut-down. This is a safety feature (Samsung Note 7, anyone?) If you buy a battery from ANYWHERE except apple (and apple will overcharge you for it), you need to verify that it has a functioning temperature and current sensor. You do this by turning off your phone, then opening it. Then disconnecting the old battery (but not removing, if you have a 5s or newer, because removing them is $%@! hard). Then just plug in the new battery. Then start your phone, and run BatteryLife (you'll have to hold the screen if there are two batteries in your phone casing now- otherwise you could break your display cables, and then you're hosed). If batteryLife shows the temperature and the current values changing, then you have a fully-functional battery. If not, your battery is missing some important safety components, and should not be used in your daily driver for safety reasons. Buy another battery from somewhere else. The dev of BatteryLife said there have been a bunch of fake (no temperature sensor) batteries all over the globe lately. I've personally bought a fake i5 and i5s battery from ebay that didn't have the sensors. I was able to get a proper 5s battery from iFixit.com , though it does cost a little more. I got a proper 6s battery from ebay (here)[http://www.ebay.com/itm/301965751181?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT] for not too much. Getting the 6s battery from iFixit was $40 I think. The 5s and newer have sticky pads that go under the battery and must be replaced each time you remove the battery. Make sure you have one if you're going to change the battery. Note that the 6s has a gasket around the screen, as well, which is an even bigger pain in the ass. If you think you might need a new battery, you should do it before the iOS 10 jailbreak (whenever that may be). Why? Because the interfaces that BatteryLife uses to get access to the temperature and current are not available in iOS 10. The dev has told me that he'll be looking for a way to maintain full functionailty, but that is uncertain. This means that if you upgrade your device to iOS 10, you won't be able to tell if your battery is fully functional. I personally do not want my battery to tell iOS that it is at 87 degrees F (that was the value from one of the fake batteries) if it is really at 120 degrees F. That's how you get hurt (or get your phone to burn your couch).

  • Coleman Padberg

    > What should I skill first? Level 1 - Q vs ranged, E vs melee. Take whichever you didn't get at level 2, then Hiten at level 3. Note, this is just the general rule of thumb. Exceptions probably exist. > And what should I max first. You have three realistic options: * classic: W > E > Q * modern: W > Q > E * utility: E > W > Q Classic skill ordering is so called (by me, it's not a common term or anything) because for a long time that used to be the commonly accepted max order on Irelia. You want Hiten first because the flat damage and sustain is way better to max at level 9 than 13 (or God forbid 18) and it's a major part of your laning. Equilibrium second is better CC and usually helps more in duels. Although not unilaterally the best max order on Irelia anymore, it's still very good and I recommend it if either [a] you're new to Irelia, or [b] you favor safety and reliability, say if you're having trouble dueling your enemy laner. With the advent of 20% CDR on Triforce as well as other incidental factors, Bladesurge second became more viable, hence modern skill ordering. This one generally improves burst (base damage and CD increase per level) and eventually helps chasing down targets even without resets (40% CDR and level 5 Q gives you 3.6s CD). Recommended if you're looking to double down on your assassination power and midgame powerspike, preferably with more AD in your build. Utility skill ordering is generally not recommended but you might have that weird game at some point where it's probably best. It just means you're throwing up your hands in the air saying "fuck this my team is carrying me" and you're just needed as a meatshield in teamfights. > And how about builds? Triforce -> Botrk -> tank is ok for reliability and safety. Imo if you really want to build like that every game then Jax would suit you better as a champion, but the build is totally viable and even maybe best if you're dueling, splitpushing, or otherwise just doing something besides making picks and assassinating carries in fights. If at all reasonable I would generally recommend more AD items after Triforce, as it doubles down on assassination and pick power. I personally have come to really love Maw and give it strong consideration as long as there's at least one reasonable AP threat on the enemy team, but that means you won't get Sterak's in your build (no point, shields don't stack), and some people like Sterak's better. Other than that, consider stuff like Titanic (auto reset and on-hit is great burst, and waveclear improvement), Youmuu's (not nearly as attractive as last season but still your best one-stop shop for assassin stats - AD+CDR+lethality), Edge of Night (I haven't tried this much but spell shield is occasionally just what you need), etc. AD items basically. For tank items Randuin's (swap for DMP if enemy lacks crit threats), Visage, and GA are the usual considerations (not necessarily in that order, GA has top priority and I almost always build it no matter what my build). But most stuff is fine, except possibly Sunfire (burn damage means you can have trouble fishing for stuns - not that this is usually very important, but a technicality to bear in mind). As for how many damage and how many tank items? That's just a long discussion about the game in general and personal opinion varies. Suffice to say that I feel that neither 1 damage item (Triforce only) or a full 5 damage items is generally a good idea. Something in between is probably best. Generally, fewer damage items is better if building AS like Botrk (tank items are more effective in AS builds because you need to live longer to output your damage), and more is better if building AD (you want to get your job done quickly and efficiently, before enemies can collapse on you). And like I keep saying - exceptions exist.

  • Mable Murray

    My son could have died. See summary if you're not up for a long read. It was so surreal. Long story: At our new lake house. First summer there. Just roasted s'mores after dinner, sun was setting. My kids were ages almost 2,3,5 and 6. They ate the s'mores and immediately ran around the lake front yard. I stayed by the fire watching, listening, letting them run around. I felt a calm satisfaction of a happy family. The kids were all joining hands and running and jumping into this pile of leaves that were once beneath the dock when it was on land for the winter. Super cute. I took my eyes off them for a minute - watching my husband tinker with something boat-related on the dock. Suddenly, the 3 year old ran up to me in tears. He said, "Nick fell through the Earf." WHAT?! I look, and the 6 year old was running to the house. The 2 year old was standing by the pile of leaves. Nick (barely 5) was no where to be found. I run over to the pile of leaves. In the center was a tiny hole. Imagine the old-school cartoons where a character runs through a wall and his outline of his body is left on the wall. It was like that, only a vertical outline. Inside the hole was about two feet of darkness. Water. Tree roots pointed downward. Then a hand. On one of the roots. His head emerged from the murky brown water, covered with leaves. His big brown eyes filled with leaf particles because he fell through with his eyes wide open. He screamed, "MOM!" A thousand thoughts in an instant. Holy fuck! What *IS* this?! Is this an underground spring? If he lets go, is there a current that will take him under? Where will he go? Under ground? How far? He can swim. How do I get him? GRAB HIS ARM!!! So I go to grab his arm and the ground beneath me gives. Another 1000 thoughts in an instant. If I grab him and the ground gives, will I smother him with the dirt? Will my attempt to save him actually kill him? WTholyF *IS* THIS?! And in that instant, my (then) husband grabbed his arm with me from the other side of the tiny hole and together, we pulled him out. My 3 year old threw up. I'm surprised we didn't dislocate his arm, but that wouldn't be as bad as losing him altogether. We lay him down on the grass as he gasped for air. He was soaking wet with decaying leaves. I picked him up in my arms, hugged him and ran straight up to the house and put him in the bath so I could assess any injuries. We washed him up. Refilled the bath and all the other kids got in there, too. I got all their PJ's on them and we cuddled in my king size bed together. The entire family of 6 slept in the same bed that night. My husband had gone back out to see WTF happened. It was too dark. Next day, we got an excavator who discovered that 75 years prior this was someone's out house. The previous owner put a bunch of 2 x 6s over the hole and covered it with dirt and sod. The 2 x 6's had rotted. So the hole he fell into was 17 feet deep. The lake was only about 30 feet away, so fresh lake water had seeped in and filled the hole. Thankfully, he wasn't full of shit. It was just water and decomposed forest floor. So we had the hole filled with sand and went to the county to mark it's existence so this wouldn't happen to some one else. Looking back, I feel that fate picked the best kid for this accident. The oldest would have panicked. And drown. The youngest couldn't swim. The third child wouldn't have been strong or have enough arm length to find the root to hang on to. This child fell in. Swam up to the surface. Reached the root. Hung on. He was the only one that could have survived. I also think about missing people. I wonder how many of them fell into the Earth. My son is 18 now. He remembers every detail. We still don't laugh about it. We just...are thankful. Summary: My son fell into a concealed dry well filled with lake water and we pulled him out to safety.

  • D'angelo Zulauf

    There's a few, not counting impossible achievements like the Youtube views. Full Spectrum Warrior - Ignite 3 enemy players with the Rainblower Taunt at once: Borderline impossible without friends and even then it's tricky because you need enough cooperation. The way the taunt works is that the more people you hit, the less damage it does on each additional target. To get it to the point where it won't kill, you need at least *three* victims. Two more people have to get in the way so in order to get this achievement, you have to hit at least **five enemy players** in one go. With Friends Like These/Banner of Brothers - Play a complete match with at least 7 Steam friends/Banner buff at at least 5 people on your friends list at once: Both require friendship. Since you can't drop-in on people on official servers anymore, you'll have to hit up a pub if you want to join your friends in progress. WFLT is worse as you can't team more than five at once so you're forced on to a community server unless you somehow manage to get matched with your friends. On the Rocks/Running with Scissors - Lose three straight Rock-Paper-Scissors throws with Rock/Win three straight with Scissors: Pure luck. According to the math, you have a 1 in 256 shot of pulling this off. And you have to do it twice. Specialist - Heal 10,000 health in one life as a Medic: Doable, but being a Medic is already a rough job and you're very likely getting singled out above all other classes. Specialist requires incredible situational awareness to attain as you need to know when to get to safety and you need to pray to RNGesus to not send crits your way. Let alone dodging Snipers, Spies and Scouts every moment of your life. The Man from P.U.N.C.T.U.R.E. - Kill an enemy with the Spy's knife taunt: Taunt kills are easy enough on unaware victims. The problem with Spy's taunt here is that it's a terribly long taunt that also deals damage partway through before the kill. Even oblivious players will likely notice they just took a bit of damage and will also be clued in by the Spy's voice line breathing down their neck. Because the taunt is so hideously telegraphed it's extremely difficult to actually pull it off on even the most unaware of 2fort/Doublecross Snipers. Even around corners the Spy's commentary gives him away so ambush tactics aren't always feasible either. Got a Light - Ignite a Spy smoking his cigarette: Requires you to set fire to a Spy taunting with the disguise kit. That in itself is a huge rarity as even someone who taunts after every kill will likely instead use his knife taunt or any other store-bought taunt. Pretty much the only time a Spy will use the Disguise Kit taunt is for the For Your Eyes Only achievement. Even further, how many Spy players even know this taunt exists? The Snakeout - Wipe the enemy team in a round of Snakewater; minimum 12 players on server: Somewhat easier if you're actually playing 6s or in servers that haven't quite filled, but team wipes in full servers are fairly rare and skill varies from pub to pub. Trying to get this achievement in Casual/Quickplay is very unlikely to happen. Mutually Air-Sured Destruction - Kill an enemy rocket jumping Soldier while rocket jumping who also kills you at the same time on Snakewater: You and an enemy Soldier have to blow each other out of the sky. For this to even happen is practically a fluke. Frags to Riches - Earn all Credit bonuses in a single game of MvM: Doable, but requires coordination. In particular you have to get all the money on the *last* wave too and if you're not in a team specifically trying to do this you likely won't get a Scout scooping up the money from the impending bot slaughter.

  • Jordane Cummerata

    INSIDE the Hindmarsh house this summer, we’ve got a decision to make. Our seven-year-old Rowdie will turn eight next year and like his older brothers Archie (10) and Buster (9), he’s asked about playing his first season of junior rugby league. But like most kids who have never played junior league, or any sport for that matter, Rowdie is a little bit nervous about joining his brothers at the Rouse Hill Rhinos. I can understand that. I didn’t start playing rugby league until I was 12. I played soccer as my first sport. I only wish I was able to experience the 2017 version of junior rugby league. World’s apart; that’s the best way I can explain how different the junior league game is now, compared to when I was first introduced to the sport. In 2017, boys and girls nationally will play under new rules and guidelines implemented by the NRL to make junior rugby league the safest and most enjoyable it has ever been. Some of the rule changes are quite revolutionary. Almost every new rule is designed on the premise of two things, giving every kid a greater opportunity to hold and run with the footy while also spending much more time on the field doing exactly what they’ve signed up for — to play the game. In the under-6s and 7s, goalkicks after tries are gone. There are second chances for running over the sideline or knocking the ball forward. The field sizes are smaller and the teams are smaller. The old two-pass rule is gone too, which I love. I wasn’t taught to pass until I was playing first grade at Parramatta under Brian Smith. I didn’t know how to “draw and pass”. Passing will come. Let’s not bog our youngest players down by teaching them how to pass at the age of five and six. Let them have fun. Let them do what they want to do most and that’s run. Let them run around as they would do at school or in their backyard. I know this rule, in particular, will help my boy Rowdie, who just wants to play and run around with his little mates. And that’s what these new rules promote. Fun, fitness and safety. Often parents talk to me about allowing their son or daughter to play rugby league. Despite league being my life and career now, I would never offer them a biased opinion for the sake of their child’s safety. So I say this, with absolute confidence. When I drop Archie and Buster off at training, I’ve got 100 per cent confidence in the coaching they’re about to receive. I know that the coaches are teaching the boys the safest way to tackle and support their teammates. I think sometimes we need to leave the decision up to the kids. Because if my kids wanted to play croquet, I’d let them. As long as my kids are out there playing sport. I encourage my boys to play any form of sport because it’s fun and you’re getting fit and you don’t even know you’re getting fit. They’re also forming relationships, which is a big thing, and they’re also gaining confidence as individuals. Rugby league, with its team aspect, is a great tool for providing confidence and personal development of your son and daughter. And I can’t say that enough to parents who are considering putting their kids into sport and rugby league. Forget about the NRL in the under-9s or 10s, junior league couldn’t be more different. For me, junior league is about the smiles I see on Archie and Buster’s faces as we arrive at training or kick off every Saturday. Rowdie may not play junior league in 2017 and that’s fine. He’ll decide when and if he wants to play. But if he does play, one thing I do know is, he’s about to enjoy the safest, most enjoyable form of junior league, we’ve ever seen. And that puts a smile on my face.

  • Libby Macejkovic

    At least one offensive item besides Triforce is practically mandatory unless your team is guaranteed to carry you and you just need to tank up to be a distraction/Equilibrium Strike bot in teamfights. Triforce-tank isn't a completely obsolete build, but it's kind of a relic now and imo extremely situational. > In general, from your experience, is attack damage or attack speed usually better on Irelia? AD vs AS is really about what you look to do that game. Opinions vary based on person, patch, and game, but I'll try and summarize my thoughts. If you invest into AD, that signals you're looking to accentuate your ability to assassinate and burst carries. Transcendent Blades actually scales really well with bonus AD, and AD of course improves Bladesurge's damage. With 40% CDR (you already get 20% from Triforce) you can get Bladesurge down to 3.6s CD, great for chasing and repeated burst. In an ideal game (imo), this is generally what you would look to do with Irelia. But you have to ask yourself, how reliably can I do this? If enemy is absurdly tanky in general, that reduces the number of targets you have with AD builds (not to mention tanks tend to have good peel, making assassination even harder). If enemy has lots of burst denial like Exhaust, Janna/Catfish/Karma, Zhonya's/GA, whatever, and they're good with using that stuff, you will probably immediately get peeled off and die miserably if you try to dive enemy carries. Basically with AD you're looking to snowball midgame hard making picks. On the other hand, AS improves your dueling power. Means you have better splitpush potential, and you can also handle yourself better vs tanks and other duelists. You don't need to stack as much AS as you do AD in general (there's no point, past a certain point more AS is impractical to make use of), so you can invest into more tank items -> more reliable and harder to fuck up, and a smoother transition into lategame (not necessarily *better*, just *smoother*). If your game plan is to duel/splitpush, or you find it impractical to dive/assassinate carries (for reasons outlined above), AS+tank is probably a better investment than AD. > I can't decide between Sterak's Gage, Titanic Hydra, Wit's End, or Blade of the Ruined King. Sterak's: I don't build this personally. Not a bad item at all especially when paired with GA for resists, and improves Spellblade procs, but ever since Maw was reworked to grant CDR, I usually build that in AD builds and building Sterak's as well is inefficient. Titanic: Nice burst item. Q to a target, then auto-Titanic (all with W active) for very nice burst. Also improves waveclear which helps with roams, and can help with splitpush if you're going that way. Wit's: I don't build this personally. It's not that it's bad, I just unilaterally prefer Botrk and I don't find room for both. Technically Wit's would be better than Botrk against squishy targets I guess, but I prefer raw AD for murdering them immediately instead of trying to auto them to death. Botrk: Great AS item. Triforce+Botrk+tank is imo reasonable for safety and reliability, and depending on enemy it's not *terrible* at midgame assassination either with the Botrk active for chasing.

  • Quincy Greenholt

    > No, but I can see how you'd think that if all you read is Trumpist propaganda on Breitbart and /r/the_dumbass I actually get my news from a wide variety of sources. Up until recently, I was a Democrat-voter until I gave it some serious reflection. > It's the Donald who wants to "open up libel laws" so he can sue people who write mean things about him (or just play back video of him saying the horrible shit he says daily). There are plenty of completely fact-less hit pieces posted about him on a consistent basis. This is a threat to our democracy, with big-donor-owned media being able to public complete lies to influence political elections. I don't think it has anything to do with "mean things" or the video that was released. Many of the negative hit-piece stories about Trump turned out to be false - go figure. > It's the Donald who's currently being sued under the Klan Act for voter intimidation You can sue for anything. Doesn't mean that they'll win. Of course the Democrat party will sue for anything that they can. Doesn't mean that there is voter intimidation. Meanwhile, in Pittsburgh, you can't place a Trump sign without getting your property vandalized. You can't walk around with a Trump hat or shirt without fearing getting assaulted, since it is Trump supporters are are the target of intimidation and violence. [Here is a fun video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aeOkybuCXX0&t=6s) that reminds me of this. > it's the Donald who is screaming for his supporters to prevent "certain groups" from voting. Do you mean illegal immigrants? Because yeah, they shouldn't be allowed to vote if they aren't citizens. > It's the Trumpists who want to ban a billion people from an entire religion from the US He wants a ban on countries with a higher concentration of terrorist activity. Not my favorite thing about him but I'll take safety over political correctness any day. > it's the Trumpists who have been stirring up racial tensions all year How? Isn't that the corporate media's fault? Obama and Clinton for drumming up Black Lives Matter? > It's the Trumpist side that has the endorsement of the KKK and is the subject of loving posts over at Stormfront. Hillary has KKK endorsements too. Not sure about that site you listed since I haven't been there. Her mentor, Byrd, was a KKK leader. > It's Trump whose supports keep getting caught on video shouting things like "Jew-S-A Jew-S-A" and "luegenpresse" Hahaha, actually that was a [Clinton plant](https://pieceofmindful.com/2016/10/30/fake-reality-hits-you-hard-bro/). > Trump supporters who SWATed a peaceful protester in Nevada and are now calling it an "assassination attempt". The details of that event are still coming out. > But yeah, it's the left side. I'm sorry you're so deluded, maybe try doing some research. [I hope that you do your research too.](https://www.mostdamagingwikileaks.com/)

  • Vinnie Hilpert

    Roadhog has such a dumb design by far, regardless or whether or not he's over/underpowered. He's basically a fat-DPS-bodyshot sniper hybrid. With such a ridiculously huge hitbox, you don't even need as precise an aim as Hanzo/Widow and you can still go for a near guarantee insta kill every 6s. Even if you have a Rein and Zarya, it really doesn't guarantee safety against Roadhog. And Roadhog wears down Rein shield so quick anyway. He doesn't even have the weaknesses of snipers; he's strong both close and mid range, good sustain with self heals, can delete Rein's shield. All he doesn't have is long range and his hooks are limited by a mere 6s cooldown. I don't think anything can be done about his concept as a hero. But at the very least, his hook needs to be worked with not such a ridiculous hitbox. Also 6s cooldown isn't really that large of a window to punish hog when he's often protected by his team anyways. Make hook a proper skillshot, and possibly longer cooldown if necessary. Heck, even Ana's Sleep Dart, isn't as powerful as Hook, and Sleep Dart itself is already a very strong ability, balanced by long cooldown and skill shot requirement. Early after release, Hog was acknowledged as an ult battery and all. Though now Ana has become problematic and can abuse Hog as a battery, Roadhog is still a really awkward hero that's a pick class that does more than what a pick class should be doing. Either make him less of a pick class by making Hook less spammable or require significantly better precision, or make him not as oppressive in that many aspects of combat. A pick class that's reliable in so many ways isn't truly a pick class. Give him some proper weakness in his pick aspect rather than one that's so spammable and non-punishing. Also right click is pretty bad a concept too. You can take half a step forward/back and barely take any damage, or instantly die otherwise. Anyway, basically fighting against Hog is way more annoying than it should be with the threat of getting instakilled. To kill a Widow, you jump her, force the Grapple off cooldown and chase or you can call your job done when she can't shoot your team. As for Hog, you actually have to hope they screw up their hook, abuse that 6s window while ensuring you don't get instakilled by Hog or screwed by his teammates. Really, the way to deal with Hog is to only bait and hope he screws up. You can't hide behind Rein forever as with Widow, who even then, can only bypass that with an insane grapple shot. Overall bad concept / 10.

  • Brad Ryan

    Well, it sounds like your budget is definitely higher than what a typical starter kit runs. The Rockwell 6s is generally well reviewed and most people who own it are very pleased. I can give no personal testimony since I've never used one. I'm mainly a vintage razor guy, both with safety razors (DE, SE & injectors) and straight razors. Of the few (5) modern razors I own, the clear favorite is the Maggard V3A. It has a reputation for being efficient yet comfortable and that's exactly how it performs for me. It doesn't agree with some people as they find it too aggressive for their situation. As for vintage DE, I usually recommend a Gillette NEW, either Short Comb or Long Comb. I have both and they are my favorite vintage DE razors. For vintage SE, I usually recommend a GEM or Ever-Ready 1912. They're the same razor with different branding. It's a good middle-of-the-road razor on the aggression scale. My personal favorite is the ER 1914 & ER 1924. For vintage injector my usual advice is to pick up a Hydro-Magic or Type E. The Hydro-Magic is guaranteed to be a comfortable shaver though not as efficient as the Type E. The Type E has a reputation of running the range from shitty rough to uber smooth. My personal favorite is a Canadian E3. For brushes, you can't go wrong with any of the widely available, and reasonably priced Plisson-like synthetics that dominate the market right now. They just can't be beat for their price/performance ratio. They can make a luxurious lather out of dog shit. If it's a badger you want, many good choices are popping up in the $40-$60 range. Both of the vendors I mentioned are a good source for these. My personal favorite for a badger is an Elite Razors Manchurian White which I put in a vintage Ever Ready H40 handle. There are many more badger brushes that are uber luxurious and are priced accordingly, but the law of diminishing returns applies. Boar brushes tend to be overlooked by many people, but I truly enjoy mine. My personal favorite is a Semogue 610 closely followed by the 620. These are great brushes if you have the patience to get through the break-in period. Now for soaps. What a can of worms. I like both artisanal and commercially produced soaps. I have well over 40 soaps from over 25 different makers. It would be impossible to pick a favorite. That's why I have over 40. A good starting point for artisanal choices can be found in the daily SOTD threads. I won't bother to name any, because I don't want to offend any of our great artisans by omission. Just read through the threads and see what p pole are using. As for commercially produced soaps, I really like Valobra (who also makes Czech & Speake), Saponificio Varesino, D.R. Harris, Tabac, Fine Accoutrements and several others. I've mentioned only my personal preferences and those don't necessarily align with other people's tastes. The world of wetshaving offers way too many choices to pick singular products. I hope I was of some help to you. Good luck with the hunt.

  • Clemmie Dicki

    I generally use the Rockwell with R3 or R4, but I've tried all the settings, and they are all comfortable (even with a Feather blade on R5 and R6) and efficient, with the blade feel increasing from R1 (essentially no blade feel: this setting with a Feather blade feels and performs like the Feather AS-D2, at least for me) to a lot of blade feel (but no discomfort or fear that I will get a nick) at R6. And I routinely get a BBS result with the 6S (using generally a Personna Lab Blue blade, but YMMV on brand of blade). The X3 (or 102—for me they shave the same) also is efficient and easily gets a BBS result. The difference is that the X3 seems to cut a little easier. I generally recommend a slant as a SECOND safety razor because with a slant in particular very light pressure is extremely important, and those accustomed to a cartridge razor often have difficulty really understanding how light the pressure should be (plus, of course, they don't have to worry about the angle since they have no control over that). If you look at [these pointers](https://leisureguy.wordpress.com/2016/04/20/advice-from-me-for-the-first-time-fine-slant-user/), you'll see my emphasis on pressure. I think the Rockwell 6S would be an excellent first razor, though pricey for some. In [this post](https://www.reddit.com/r/wicked_edge/comments/4clrqs/good_better_best_3_recommendations_for_a_novice/), I list several razors, all of outstanding comfort and efficiency, at various price levels. Although they differ substantially in price, they are extremely close in comfort and efficiency. The price differences reflect differences in materials and manufacturing methods, not differences in quality of feel and performance. I would suggest that you start with one of those and get a slant once your routinely get smooth and trouble-free results with the conventional razor. Take note of [the four most common mistakes cartridge shavers make](http://www.reddit.com/r/wicked_edge/comments/15eqbh/my_so_got_me_a_starter_kit/c7lz76u) when switching to a DE razor. Hope this helps.

  • Pearl Littel

    Thank you for the very detailed and sane analysis here. Let me start off by saying that I agree with you on most if not all points. I am not a good pvp player; being very new to both console gaming and FPS. So maybe take my opinion with a huge grain of salt and let it represent the unwashed masses of casual scrubs out there who rarely to never speak up about meta or otherwise. Frankly I had just begun to carve out a niche in 6s for myself by being canny and using fusion rifles to a good degree of success to counter shotgun rushes. I can not only no longer do that easily, but I don't have the movement skills or safety of engagement distance to counter the sidearm meta now starting to appear. So without fusion ammunition (because my dumb scrub ass dies a lot!), I'm forced to sneak around the edges of maps plinking away with a long range scout or pulse and hoping I don't get domed by Icebreaker/NLB, which have absolutely infested 6s. Not only that, but the patch has really adversely effected my preference for pve; in that it's now much harder to solo heroic mode strikes, etc due to the broken health regeneration issues, although I understand that's been addressed. Don't get me started about the Truth nerf because this was a go-to exotic for certain situations (one of the only good void ranged heavy weapons.) My suggestion would be to revert the special ammunition timer, AND purely base special ammunition on weapon impact (e.g. lower the magazine for the Matador archetype, Saladin's Vigil, etc) and also allow you to revive with one magazine's worth of ammunition max. For Elimination game modes and possibly 6's, I'd also maybe suggest that you only get "back" whatever special you have / had in your weapon on death, meaning that if your mag was empty, you're screwed, because otherwise you would potentially see people jumping off maps in certain situations just to spawn back in with a full clip. I think sidearms shouldn't get a "pass" on the special weapons economy, and maybe the exotic perks of Icebreaker and other ammunition regen weapons get some kind of restriction for Elimination modes as well. Last but not least I don't play elimination modes, but I do enjoy watching skilled players play them. This new meta is not really very entertaining to watch unless you have someone stubbornly bucking the meta.

  • Rafael Tillman

    I feel like Fury just needs 2-3 changes to becomes a SUPER fun spec. Subjective of course, these could be awful changes for most fury warriors so feel free to tell me "no this blows". First, remove extra damage taken... Hardly any use in PvE, almost kills the spec PvP. It's not needed. The lack of Defence CDs fulfils the class fantasy of a berserker that cares aught for their safety. Second, make Juggernaut ramp faster and stick around longer. Maybe 25% per stack, cap at 16 stacks (crits give 2 stacks) and last for 15s or until you switch targets. Idk if 400% Execute damage would make them too good, because Warriors are the execute kings... but Arms should be better than Fury. Or who knows, maybe make Fury the execute king if you let them clap you long enough. Just make it stack faster and last longer. Third, make rampage hit A LOT harder than raging blow (talented or not). It should be the cream of the crop ^^^always ^^^rising ^^^to ^^^the ^^^top for damage output. When that fury warrior hits high rage, prepare for him to unleash hell. Lastly, make Bloodthirst/furious slash better. Get rid of Furious Slash's passive and it give it a bonus to your rage gen or make it focus damage into raging blow (like a buff called calm before the storm or something? idk, flavour text). Make Bloodthirst have a baked in crit bonus (like it used to) and make raging blow have a slightly longer CD. (I think it's 4.5s before haste? Make it 6s) Fury (for me) feels like it should be the spec that never stops attacking. Compared to Arms with its setup/burst windows (which I like) with periods of downtime. Exposing vulnerabilities to strike a few times dealing massive damage. Fury should just never stop swinging, getting more and more angry until he unleashes all that fury into a devastating attack (Rampage) until you're nearly dead. With some method in the madness, turning them into a Warrior that isn't totally brainless (Raging Blow). When you are nearly dead, he'll stop building and spending and just start chunking, and chunking you at your weakspot until you keel over and die (execute chaining). Again, that's how I'd like Fury to play. Totally subjective.

  • Vincenza DuBuque

    2 packs is easier in that they'll be easier to find. Multiply the nominal output voltage of the pack with the amp-hour rating and the magic number you're looking for is ~240. Sounds like you do have some experience with electricity so I won't lecture you too much about safety. It is however worth repeating to be very careful about hooking these packs together. On the one hand you can hook packs up in parallel, which for low-drain (compared to a multirotor or RC helicopter) applications shouldn't be a problem - just make sure the batteries are at equal voltages and states of charge before you do. Very sure. Like within a few tens of millivolts + identical charge level. [Here](https://hobbyking.com/en_us/multistar-high-capacity-6s-10000mah-multi-rotor-lipo-pack.html) is the same pack but half the capacity. You won't come close the maximum power draw of your batteries even if you tried, but depending on how robust your buck converter is you could easily overload it - be sure to test it to see how gracefully it responds to that. On the other hand, you could just use one buck converter per pack and only draw power for your Arduino from one of them. You can then control the other independent battery + LED system just fine without sharing power, though you'll need a common ground. So you would never even need to connect the 2 packs together in the first place. A hardcase lipo pack would be great but I haven't yet seen one with this much capacity, though you could of course just use more of them. How many are you making and what's the context ? It sounds like you're making these for other people to wear, so it's worth getting a lot more anal about safety. If it's for friends you'll be with, twice as anal. If you're doing it commercially and don't know who may be wearing it then 10x as anal. Not a good idea to let newbies play with and attempt to charge lipo packs of this variety. Every time you do a personal injury lawyer gets his wings. Budget a bit for battery protection (both physical and electrical), battery management/monitoring, general idiot-proofing, etc... Sounds like a fun project though! Would love to see the results.

  • Edythe Spinka

    The one you are referring to is the civic HF. 0-60 in 12 seconds, quarter mile in 18.6s, top speed of 93mph. I have a modern CRX, similar weight, similar mpg, manual transmission, two seater, similar trunk, and they made it until 2006. Only real difference is the top speed of 112mph. Anyways, my point is, you don't want this car. It's a curse. You're slower than everyone else and they know it so people will bully the hell out of you because you can. People will cut you off just to get in front of you because they think you're going to accelerate slow. Even if you don't accelerate slow, they will do it anyways, and you will not be able to stop them, because you're slow. I have had someone cut me off at a red light while I was stopped at the front of traffic because they didn't want to wait. I'm planning on buying a GoPro and I'm going to upload my daily commutes just to convince people DO NOT BUY A SLOW CAR. I would consider 0-60 in 9 seconds to be the bare minimum I would consider in the future. In my mazda6, I was invisible in a good way, nobody cut me off, people were polite and if I pulled up behind them on the highway they got out of my way, in the Insight, you're a target, just like motorcycles. People resent you and they will do stuff just to piss you off because they know there's nothing you can do because you're slower and smaller. My mom bought the car because she likes tiny cars and she replaced it with a surburban because she felt so unsafe in the insight. My dad started driving it, he lasted a couple years before he asked if I would trade my mazda6 for the insight since I was having engine troubles. I've driven it 10 months and I'm SICK of it. I'm currently saving up for a Chevy Bolt. Faster than a fiesta ST, better efficiency than the insight, modern safety and tech features, more visible so I won't have to worry about getting side swiped off the highway by a Honda Crosstour due to the higher belt lines in modern sedans. With the amount of money it will save me on gas and maintenance (even compared to the Honda Insight) I can rent a car if I need to drive more than 260 miles in a day.

  • Cordell Thompson

    This is the best tl;dr I could make, [original](http://www.theverge.com/2016/12/6/13853280/apple-iphone-6s-battery-problems-fix-explanation) reduced by 64%. (I'm a bot) ***** > Last month, Apple launched a recall program for a number of iPhone 6S models that have been shutting down unexpectedly. > "We found that a small number of iPhone 6S devices made in September and October 2015 contained a battery component that was exposed to controlled ambient air longer than it should have been before being assembled into battery packs. As a result, these batteries degrade faster than a normal battery and cause unexpected shutdowns to occur. It's important to note, this is not a safety issue." > At any rate, if you have an iPhone 6S that's causing you problems you can check if it's been affected using this Apple tool. ***** [**Extended Summary**](http://np.reddit.com/r/autotldr/comments/5gtge5/apple_blames_exposure_to_ambient_air_for_iphone/) | [FAQ](http://np.reddit.com/r/autotldr/comments/31b9fm/faq_autotldr_bot/ "Version 1.65, ~30130 tl;drs so far.") | [Theory](http://np.reddit.com/r/autotldr/comments/31bfht/theory_autotldr_concept/) | [Feedback](http://np.reddit.com/message/compose?to=%23autotldr "PM's and comments are monitored, constructive feedback is welcome.") | *Top* *keywords*: **Apple**^#1 **battery**^#2 **problem**^#3 **number**^#4 **phone**^#5

  • Carmen Jakubowski

    There are three realistic skill orders on Irelia: * W > E > Q (classic) * W > Q > E (modern) * E > W > Q (utility) Hiten is generally what you want to max first because it's flat true damage, which is obviously more relevant earlier (lower HP targets) and less so later. It's a huge aspect of Irelia's trading in lane and is applied by Bladesurge, making your burst even better. Historically Equilibrium Strike was generally maxed second. This would give more potential Hiten procs (longer stun duration) and safety/utility, and the idea was that Bladesurge would be used only when it could reset (or in all-ins), lowering the need to reduce its CDR early. Hence the "classic" skill ordering. It's still great and I recommend that one if you're new to Irelia. With the last Triforce rework, the item grants 20% CDR now (wtf?). This combined with E damage nerfs/Q damage buffs has prompted Irelia players to instead max Bladesurge second, because with sufficient CDR, Bladesurge at higher ranks reaches a very low CD, making it realistic to use repeatedly without resets (specifically, 40% CDR gives a 3.6s CD on Q at rank 5). Hence the "modern" skill ordering. It usually makes you harder to kite than with "classic" ordering and it's a burst improvement, but it'll rely on you snowballing and pushing your midgame to make full use of it. "Utility" skill ordering is basically the "I'm super behind in lane and I can't be useful through damage so I might as well max what utility I do have" ordering. Not recommended if you can at all help it, but it's there and sometimes it's all your team needs of you if they can carry you otherwise.

  • Luz Hane

    This is the best tl;dr I could make, [original](https://www.yahoo.com/tech/apple-blames-external-damage-flaming-china-iphones-040357144.html) reduced by 67%. (I'm a bot) ***** > Shanghai - Apple has blamed "External physical damage" for causing a handful of iPhones to explode or catch fire in China and insisted that its handsets posed no safety problem. > Fresh on the heels of Samsung's worldwide Galaxy Note 7 safety fiasco, a Shanghai consumer watchdog said last Friday it had received eight recent reports of iPhones that spontaneously combusted while being used or charged. > Apple last month offered to change iPhone 6s batteries for Chinese users who complained of the sudden shutdowns, but said the problem did not constitute a safety issue. ***** [**Extended Summary**](http://np.reddit.com/r/autotldr/comments/5gzkzq/apple_blames_external_damage_for_flaming_china/) | [FAQ](http://np.reddit.com/r/autotldr/comments/31b9fm/faq_autotldr_bot/ "Version 1.65, ~30517 tl;drs so far.") | [Theory](http://np.reddit.com/r/autotldr/comments/31bfht/theory_autotldr_concept/) | [Feedback](http://np.reddit.com/message/compose?to=%23autotldr "PM's and comments are monitored, constructive feedback is welcome.") | *Top* *keywords*: **iPhone**^#1 **safety**^#2 **Council**^#3 **Apple**^#4 **consumer**^#5

  • Rosella Toy

    Wormhole resident here. Yes, wormholes aren't just for exploring- we *live* in them. Some of us are so deep that we only come out once a month to stock up on often used ammo, etc. Bookmark everything. Entrance and exits to wormholes. Learn to use Tripwire or Siggy. They're wormhole mapping third party programs. Use them so you don't get lost. Learn to huff gas in a Venture. Scan down gas sites (other than Ordinary gas sites, as those start with NPCs in them) and "ninja huff" the gas for ~12 to ~20 minutes before the Sleeper NPCs show up. Sell gas for dank ISK. When you can fly better combat ships, consider trying to run some combat sites in wormhole classes 1, 2, and 3. It's unlikely you'll be able to efficiently solo a 4, and 5/6s are far larger groups, so join a corporation that lives in a class 5 or 6 for those. You'll find Sleeper combat sites get you delicious "blue loot" that you can sell to NPCs for dank ISK and salvaging their wrecks can get you melted nanoribbons. Plus, pirate faction relic and data sites are the same as those found in null security space. No NPC protectors, fat loot to find. But beware- especially if it's not your home wormhole, there's always the chance you're being hunted by a cloaky ship. With no local chat to confirm you're alone in system, you must rely on your scouts (bring friends) on wormholes to tell you when someone comes in and Dscan (does not detect cloaked ships) for safety. You will eventually get jumped and lose your ship- accept it before you enter your first wormhole. But survive the dangers and you'll be rolling in ISK :) Welcome to jspace, friend.

  • Verla Greenholt

    It's probably cheap because it's likely going to need a TON of work. 2700 hours since new in 68, 610 hours since 1991, 278 hours in the last ten years. There are going to be a lot of parts seized up and needing to be replaced. It's a pressurized aircraft so you won't want to skip on any of the maintenance. This has likely been a project passed from person to person who does a little but not enough of the required maintenance, then after it nearly bankrupts them they sell it for cheap to the next person. I know because I did this with my piper apache (http://realcostofownership.blogspot.com) my guess is you'd end up spending another $95k in the first year of ownership. The cost of importing it to the usa PLUS: Formal Flight Training -- this will 100% be required by insurance. Anything that's a pressurized aircraft will require this. It's also not "just get a CFI and do the hours," your insurance will require something like simcom, flight safety international, etc., for all pilots named on the insurance. Insurance on something like that will run you about $10k for the first year unless you have a lot of high performance pressurized twin experience (I'm guessing you don't since you're asking about cherokee 6s). Being in canada and sitting without flying for that long, it's probably best used for parts. Not trying to be an ass and shoot down dreams. I've been through the buying and selling process multiple times including buying aircraft that are turn-key and the fixer-upper that was too good to be true and ended up costing double its purchase price in maintenance in the first year.

  • Rosina Bechtelar

    There are, of course, other razors that are extremely comfortable and extremely efficient, but they vary in materials (and thus also in price). Some examples of excellent razors at various price points (and made of various materials): Dorco PL-602 ($3-$4 shipped; search eBay—and this one is adjustable, much like the Merkur Progress: tighten all the way, then back off a fraction of a turn); RazoRock [Old Type](http://www.italianbarber.com/collections/safety-razors/products/razorock-old-type-open-comb-de-safety-razor), $15; Maggard [V2 open comb](http://www.maggardrazors.com/product/maggard-razors-open-comb-safety-razor-head/) with a [stainless handle](http://www.maggardrazors.com/product-category/safety-razors/handle-only/) ($30—about the same price as the equally good Parker 24C/26C but with a better handle); and the Rockwell 6S ($100). Two of those use a comb guard, two use a bar guard, but guard shape is an irrelevant design detail when talking about comfort and efficiency. There are obviously other razors that are excellent (one immediately thinks of the iKon 101), but the 6S is unusual in that it offers a variety of settings to accommodate different beards and evolving preferences. And, of course, it is stainless steel.

  • Raquel Heathcote

    Tech giant says tests show that --- > * Apple has blamed "external" factors for causing a number of the recent generations of iPhones to explode or catch fire in China and insisted that its handsets posed no safety problem. > * The council said it had received a six-fold surge in total complaints against Apple in the past two months, including sudden shutdowns of the iPhone 6 and 6s even though batteries still had enough power. > * Apple last month offered to change iPhone 6s batteries for Chinese users who complained of the sudden shutdowns, but said the problem did not constitute a safety issue. > * The Shanghai Consumer Council in its report said that during Samsung's recall in October-November, complaints involvingAppleproducts jumped, accounting for almost half the year-to-date total of 2763 - itself a nearly two-fold increase from 2015. --- Here are some other news items:^credits ^to ^u-sr33 > * [](http://www.morningnewsusa.com/world-war-3-news-india-chinas-new-enemy-23100867.html) --- ^I'm ^a ^bot ^| ^OP ^can ^reply ^with ^"delete" ^to ^remove ^| [^Message ^Creator](http://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=sallurocks) ^| [^Source](https://github.com/hunkdivine/samacharbot2) ^| ^Did ^I ^just ^break? ^See ^how ^you ^can ^help! ^Visit ^the ^source ^and ^check ^out ^the ^Readme

  • Muriel Stroman

    First of all welcome to iRacing! As a rookie, Street Stock is the only class that will count for your license. The truck race you're probably referring to is the PickUpCup, which is an unofficial series (Safety Rating doesn't count and iRating won't be effected). Fixed races are races where all drivers use the same baseline car setup. Open races allow drivers to change car setups. Street Stock is a fixed setup series. You currently have a Rookie license so there will be very few series you are eligible to run. The rookie series uses only free content. But if you wish to run other series you will need to purchase new content, sorry. Most the cars included are not used (especially in oval). But you have the Street Stock and the Legends car, both of which are used in Official series up to a C-Class license. On the road side the Global Mazda, Solstice, Caddy, and SRF (might have missed one) are used in official series up to a C-Class. Sorry if you feel cheated, but iRacing is an expensive service. But most series utilize at least some free tracks in their schedules, but you will need to purchase the rest to complete an entire season. The best advice is to purchase tracks before cars as you get more cross over between series with tracks. Additionally, you should always purchase in 3s or 6s to take advantage of iRacing's bulk discount. Hope this was helpful... good luck with rookies.

  • Emanuel Mertz

    My own recommendation is that one's second DE razor should be a [slant](http://sharpologist.com/2014/12/whats-slant-bar-razors.html), and I specifically recommend the iKon X3. That said, the shave from the baseplate of the Rockwell 6S that works best for you, with a brand of blade that works well (and with any new razor, try 3-4 different brands of blade), will be a major and noticeable improvement. But I would bet you would also find a shave with the [Dorco PL-602](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dorco-PL602-1-Handle-2-Double-Edge-Blades-Men-2pack-/112076126940), again using a brand of blade that works well for you, would be a similar improvement (and a substantial lower cost—but the PL-602 is plastic and not stainless steel, which is part of why the price is so different). There are other razors which have both excellent comfort and excellent efficiency, and if you're in the US you might look at the [Maggard V2 open-comb head](http://www.maggardrazors.com/product/maggard-razors-open-comb-safety-razor-head/) with one of their [stainless steel handles](http://www.maggardrazors.com/product-category/safety-razors/handle-only/), a total of about $30. (Guard shave does not affect the shave.)

  • Ashlee Erdman

    Enter Sandman-S... For my 10.5” Suppressed 5.56 SBR All pics taken with iPhone 6s+ UPPER - Aero Precision Stripped Upper Receiver - $80 - Strike Industries Extended Pivot/Takedown Pins - $13 - Strike Industries Enhanced Forward Assist - $15 - Spikes Tactical Pun/Flag Dust Cover - $10 - Aero Precision 10.5" 5.56 CMV Carbine Barrel - $150 - Geissele MK4 9.5" MLOK Handguard - $200 - SLR RifleWorks MLOK Handstop Mod2 - $30 - SuperLative Arms Adjustable Gas Block - $100 - Odin Works Carbine Gas Tube - $15 - Lantac Enhanced BCG - $200 - AXTS Raptor Ambi Charging Handle - $85 - Holosun HS503GU Red Dot - $240 - Scalarworks LDM Micro Lower 1/3 QD Mount - $150 - DeadAir Sandman-S 7.62 Suppressor - $1000 - ATF Form 4 Tax Stamp - $200 TOTAL UPPER = $2488 LOWER - Aero Precision Ambi Stripped Lower - $165 - Norgon Ambi Magazine Release - $90 - Aero Precision Billet Trigger Guard - $25 - P.O.F. USA Drop-In 4.5LB Single Stage Trigger - $150 - KNS Anti-Walk Pins ($ Included w/Trigger) - P.O.F. USA Ambi Safety Selector - $30 - P.O.F. USA Ambi QD Endplate - $35 - JP Tuned & Polished Carbine Spring - $20 - Spikes Tactical ST-T1 Buffer - $30 - Hogue OverMolded Beaver Tail Pistol Grip - $22 - Magpul MOE-SL Stock $50 - Local Gun Store Lower Parts Kit (No Fire Group) - $20 - ATF Form 1 Tax Stamp - $200 - FFL Transfer Fee - $30 TOTAL LOWER = $867 GRAND TOTAL = $3355ish

  • Amy Turner

    A new honda civic is about as big as a Mazda 6. Mazda 6s trunk is a bit smaller by about 1-2 cu ft over a Ford Fusion. Supposedly the Fusion is supposed to be smaller by 2020. Here is the thing. Mid size cars were the most competitive market and right now that is transitioning to SUVs. Plus you need to accept with all these EPA and safety regulations a perfect car like your dads 1999 Camry with 300,000 miles might not exist. You should be looking at cars who offer the best bang for the buck and cars that are mostly simplistic in nature, plus you have to like it. I personally for the money think the Fusion is the best ride due to its twin tube shock set up design and offers the best materials, but I probably would not have bought it if not for 25 percent off MSRP. That is where people get hung up. A new Mazda 6 is only going to have at max maybe a 15 to 18 percent discount at year end. Malibus and Fusions are easily 23 and up to 30 percent off. Show me a Blue book on a car you can get mostly loaded for 18,000 vs a Honda Accord at something like only 2,000 off MSRP. That probably will limit your choices to something like A Chevy/Ford/Kia/Hyundai/Altima and yes the Camry depreciates harder than the Accord. Is it really worth paying 2,000 more for a car vs spending like 150 dollars on fluid for the life time of the car? How long are you planning on keeping this?

  • Shaniya Romaguera

    One thing you might have wanted to consider was the safety of the actual trails-- I answered #4 with a no because of how it was worded, but I do feel unsafe because the trail isn't wide enough (despite it being a designated path). Not sure if you're going for that data, but I filled it out. Example: [This](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Walter+Reed+National+Military+Medical[email protected],-77.1092348,3a,75y,11.7h,76.1t/data=!3m7!1e1!3m5!1sBlZtPMbpqASuCRvnfeLuYQ!2e0!6s%2F%2Fgeo1.ggpht.com%2Fcbk%3Fpanoid%3DBlZtPMbpqASuCRvnfeLuYQ%26output%3Dthumbnail%26cb_client%3Dmaps_sv.tactile.gps%26thumb%3D2%26w%3D203%26h%3D100%26yaw%3D128.36018%26pitch%3D0%26thumbfov%3D100!7i13312!8i6656!4m5!3m4!1s0x89b7c88d1d719227:0x7654189925dd5435!8m2!3d39.0007635!4d-77.0936173) is technically the Bethesda Trolley Trail, but it's nothing more than a sidewalk.

  • Beryl Hauck

    There comes a point in the game where you just can't rely on Iron Skin that much because it gets outscaled. Iron Skin is still a good ability at higher levels, but it's not so much an expendable pool of health as it is a safety buffer in case you get caught in the line of fire. Pretend it's not there - avoid Ramparts, Techs, scorch bubbles etc. because Iron Skin will only save you from 2-3 seconds of fire. Rather than double down on Iron Skin, Roar and Stomp are great abilities to focus on in the late-game. Your current build will still suspend enemies for a good ~6s, which is more than your Iron Skin would endure under heavy fire (e.g. when reviving an ally). Roar will also help carry your weapons a bit further along. All in all, your build is heading in the right direction. Iron Shrapnel is also a great augment to consider, as it lets you refill Iron Skin safely, rather than waiting for an enemy to drop your mostly-empty one. I'd probably replace Cunning Drift with Speed Drift and Natural Talent with Iron Shrapnel.

  • Lincoln Lindgren

    I have been through 15 or so DE razors and the Feather Popular was among the worst. It is very mild (which can lead to bad habits) and in my case, the safety bar actually bent when tightening. The bar is plastic and not very rigid. If your budget allows, a Maggard razor is a good starting point. The V3 head is a nice middle of the road (efficient and comfortable) razor. The V2OC is also well regarded, but not my favorite. If you don't mind shopping around for a vintage (ebay, flea markets or even /r/shave_bazaar) a Gillette Tech from the late 30s through 1950s is a great starter as well. They are mild and forgiving, but much more efficient than the Feather. Pretty easy to find in the $15-30 dollar range. Finally, if you can swing $100 or so, the Rockwell 6s is outstanding. It's all stainless with 6 different settings so you can start mild and work your way up. If I had to pick one DE razor for the rest of my life, the Rockwell 6s would be it.

  • Summer Jacobson

    1. aluminum covering, not hard lol 2. probably not 3. yes 4. don't need to. just motor, ESC and batteries, no microcontroller. 5. "machine parts" like what? the motor mount? yes, that's super basic at most and its probably the most complex part of the build 6. engineer it? it's just a motor strapped to a longboard. there's 2 ways it could go badly, either accelerating too fast (not going to happen) or some sort of motor seizing where it instantly stops, which wouldn't even be catastrophic and i'll have safety gear on too. a kit is going to be, at minimum, 500 dollars not including longboard. right now, I have a spreadsheet of parts and the total for pads, helmet, longbaord with custom parts, etc is completely 500. significantly cheaper. the batteries aren't dictating anything really, now that i actually look at ESCs. they support to 12s usually as a "breaking" point (ie, either up to 6S or up to 12S) so I think it'll be fine either way.

  • Magdalena Bartell

    Kritz is actually very easy to counter without any kind of charge... Let alone the ability of three of your six players to literally airlift your medic to safety. I used to think the same way before I played 6s but the reality is, with how skilled and coordinated and FAST 6s gameplay, a lot of the supposed suggestions don't actually work. For example the issue with quick fix is that you need to run it to mid if the other team does, for obvious reasons; but you actually can't push last with it at all, so you kinda stupidly sit outside of last with your quick fix charge. Meanwhile the other team can't push out because the defensive advantage they have against a kritz (constant high-DPS classes like heavy and level 3, and demo traps) doesn't transfer to being able to push out, and deciding to push out with a kritz is risky as fuck so you might as well stalemate to oblivion rather than risk losing the round.

  • Michele Hansen

    Good to hear you're taking precautions. One of those in air meltdowns I witnessed, was mine. I had telemetry going, my DX9 feeding me constant temp/voltage info on a quality pack. When it let loose, I was in a steady cruise - nothing aggressive, just a big semi-scale Cub doing slow touch and goes. A big, 6s/5000 pack...and the fire was intense and spectacular. Best I can tell, it was a short in the pack wiring. RE the fuel concern - you bet, also a risk. Whether it's safer or not, I've no idea...but I personally feel confident with gas, as I know where to look for potential issues. I've been pre-checking fuel systems for years, and the failure points are pretty typical and obvious. Whether it's feasible or not I don't know - but I'd love for somebody to come up with a small, diesel powerplant. Seems like the torque and safety would be an ideal combo. Good luck with your endeavors - keep us posted.

  • Kenyon Konopelski

    Where are you going with this? Mobile phones are designed with the intent that they may be dropped once or twice. It is called a factor of safety. If you fail to design for standard usage, the phone wouldn't hold up for a more than a month. My iPhone 6 has been in a hardcore Ballistic case since I got it from Apple: https://www.goballisticcase.com/collections/iphone-6-6s/products/black-iphone-6-6s-hard-core-tactical-series And an Otterbox defender since I gave it to my father: http://www.otterbox.com/en-us/iphone-6-6s/defender-series-build-your-own-case/apl2-iph15-byo.html The phone has not been dropped in either case regardless. If I start to get that touch defect, I know it isn't something I did. That phone has been treated better than a squalling baby.

  • Cortney Jenkins

    Forget Mühle and Merkur, they're cheap quality razors. For your budget you could get the Rockwell 6S: http://www.shavelounge.co.uk/rockwell-razors-6s-adjustable-safety-razor (this shop is in UK and if you decide for it, send me a PM, I may be able to get you 10% off). If you like beautiful razors (you mentioned Pils), check out the Standard razor, it's superb and the shaving quality is only rivaled by the Rockwell. http://www.maggardrazors.com/product-category/safety-razors/standard-razor/ For the cheaper option I'd always suggest the Fatip Gentile: https://www.tvbshaving.com/razors/safety-razors/fatip-42122-testina-gentile-grande-chrome-safety-razor-42122.html Good luck!

  • Marshall Oberbrunner

    I can definitely name ways it would negatively impact casual! The fundamental issue is that because of how starkly different gameflow is in 6s vs. casual, some weapons which are actually perfectly balanced for casual are broken in competitive. The quickfix is a great example of that. Nobody argues its OP in quickplay, but for competitive it completely BROKE the meta when it was first added. Picking medics is so critical for 6s matches, and the quickfix allowed roamers to just jump their medics to safety (making it like the medic could just rocket jump). That plus the faster build rate just made it horrible for 6s. So yes. As ONE example, balancing the quickfix for comp by removing the ability for soldiers to jump their medics around WOULD negatively impact casual.

  • Bailee Denesik

    Thanks! Great review btw, gives me some things to look forward to. Did you get one of the "beta" 6c razors? I have a very similar beard to yours, my Merkur 25c open comb does a great job with Feather Hi-stainless blades, my shave lasts into the early evening before I'm seeing much stubble. I like that the 6c is slightly more aggressive than the 6S, I alternate between safety razors and straight razors (really just whatever I'm in the mood for that day,) so when I tried the 6 plate with the 6s it felt similar to using the straight razor. I'm excited to get it in a few months, hopefully they stay for a while. On another note, I wasn't a fan of the Rockwell blades at all, I tried several and they just didn't seem to be all that sharp. Have you noticed similar if you've tried them?

  • Dawson Macejkovic

    Thanks! Great review btw, gives me some things to look forward to. Did you get one of the "beta" 6c razors? I have a very similar beard to yours, my Merkur 25c open comb does a great job with Feather Hi-stainless blades, my shave lasts into the early evening before I'm seeing much stubble. I like that the 6c is slightly more aggressive than the 6S, I alternate between safety razors and straight razors (really just whatever I'm in the mood for that day,) so when I tried the 6 plate with the 6s it felt similar to using the straight razor. I'm excited to get it in a few months, hopefully they stay for a while. On another note, I wasn't a fan of the Rockwell blades at all, I tried several and they just didn't seem to be all that sharp. Have you noticed similar if you've tried them?

  • Thad Ortiz

    Left row top to bottom: Leatherman belt sheath, leather Field Notes book, Garmin Vivofit with KC Chiefs band, Dockers bifold wallet Middle Row top to bottom: Leatherman OHT, SOG Flash II, Opinel Slim No. 8 in olive, CZ 2075 Rami in 9mm Right side top to bottom: Mechanix gloves, safety glasses, Jeep key and spare house keys (with Chiefs keychain), my wife's car key and fob along with all personal keys, and "keys to the city" which I use for everything on the job, iphone headphones. NOT pictured: earplugs or muffs (3M WorkTunes) and my iPhone 6s plus in a Spigen Tough Armor Tech (scroll to pic 3 to see the case) Last pic: mistake pic but you can see the phone case as I entirely forgot it in the first pic. I work for a city here in KS in the Parks and Rec department.

  • Gerda Cremin

    Unfortunately no picture right now, it's in my safety deposit box. I know what you're talking about with the weak or missing lettering. Usually that is on a G-4, G-6 can have it too if the obverse is pretty nice. Usually mostly about the condition of the rims and legend at that grade for the reverse. I've seen a few with the strong lettering on G-6s and the same for ones with weak lettering, the obverses were unquestionable G-6's though bordering on VG-8 when the lettering was weak. My 21 is also ICCS and has some weakness on the lettering but not much, and the rim on both sides is mostly there with about 10-15% worn to were its not very distinct, about 20% of the legend is weakened or partial on the obverse. If you want to post pics of yours I could take a look.

  • Mariano Farrell

    $150 budget? I'm getting the Rockwell 6s http://www.maggardrazors.com/product-category/safety-razors/rockwell-razors/ Razor sampler: http://www.maggardrazors.com/product/double-edge-razor-blade-sampler-50-blades-9-types/ Maggard syth brush http://www.maggardrazors.com/product/maggard-razors-24mm-synthetic-shaving-brush-marble-handle/ Tabac soap http://www.maggardrazors.com/product/tabac-original-shaving-soap-in-ceramic-bowl/ That about spends your $150 but I would hit a drug store and get cheap aftershave like Aqua Velva or the Nivea Aftershave balm The End

  • Maci VonRueden

    Its simple the LiPo fires people are having issues with atm are from Batteries shorting out. They swell up and bam. The protection in devices is ok but not perfect. So feed the wrong voltage and amperage it can cause problems. The Iphone 6S is known to pull more then it can handle with non apple products for charging. The Galaxy S7 Edge does the same. The link can't be provided yet its still being kept partially private. Since it names some brands which could causes issues. But have had one from Google, Samsung, Apple and HTC. And devices are inspected they are found out mostly to be shorted out battery fires due to the safety checks being broken.

  • Elenora Walker

    Well * The pressure he puts in lane allows him to be ahead in farm. The TP only lets me stay even. * Since I'm most of the time under turret, I won't TP unless it's a game changer fight, and then I lose my turret. * They're often hard-engage champions (Rengar, Pant, Olaf). Splitting means there's a delay of 5-6s before I'm effective for fighting. By that my team's already waiting at the fountain. Forcing fight early can work in some matchups. BUT they have an ignite, so it's really dangerous and I'd often burn my flash for safety. It's not all that effective. Plus some have really high sustain, makins it useless (Olaf, Trynda). Soooo IDK

  • Delta Becker

    I second the recommendation for the Dorco PL-602. And the Rockwell 6S is recommended so highly by so many people who know what they're talking about that it's a pretty safe bet, too. But if you want a razor that looks and feels nicer than a <$5 plastic job and don't want to drop $100, take a look at the [Maggard MR-series](http://www.maggardrazors.com/product-category/safety-razors/maggard-razors-safety-razors/). An MR1 with a v3 head will set you back $18. It looks good, it feels good, and it shaves really well. If you want a little variety, get a v3A and/or a slant head to use on the same handle.

  • Cydney Halvorson

    For the razor, I recommend a [Rockwell S6](https://rockwellrazors.com/products/rockwell-6s). Count on €30 import duties if you order from the US. Also available from a [Swedish webshop](http://www.sliqhaq.se/rockwell-stainless-steel-razor-p-2786.html). You can compare total coats yourself. An alernative would be the [Merkur Progress](http://www.shavelounge.co.uk/merkur-progress-long-handle-safety-razor-510). For aftershave, just get the Nivea sensitive aftershave balm from your local Kruidvat.

  • Thaddeus Treutel

    I include taxes in my price, apple does not. Also what is illegitimate about having your phone fixed at a phone store? Do you send your washing machine back to the washing machine factory? Do you take your car back to the dealer after its past its warranty? No you have it fixed where it's convenient. A proper technician should be able to explain to you all the safety precautions he takes to properly work on your phone as well as the quality of the parts they are using, there is nothing illegitimate about that. I can have an iphone 6s screen fixed in 20 minutes and I offer a warranty on mine, how is that worse than the apple store?

  • Derick Streich

    FWIW There is a massive difference between a repair extension program and a recall. A repair extension program is Apple offering to repair devices meeting specific requirements for free as if they were still covered by their standard manufacturer warranty. Typically a recall is a request for a customer to return a product due to a safety issue. A good comparison would be the recent Samsung issue. The iPhone 6S battery extension program is to fix an issue that is not a safety related issue whereas the recall by Samsung was due to a very real safety issue.

  • Otho Swaniawski

    I have an iPhone 6s and I put it in my pocket. On one pair of my shorts, it bounced around like crazy. The problem was that the pocket was not attached to the leg of the shorts, so it was free to bounce around, and boy did it! (From the way you describe it as wadding up, I think you may have the same problem -- the pocket would twist as it bounced, and "wad up".) The solution was a safety pin -- through the shorts and end/lowest part of the pocket, to pin the pocket in place on the shorts. This way it moves smoothly with my leg. Once I found that worked, I replaced the safety pin with a few stitches to accomplish the same thing permanently.

  • Kassandra Schinner

    Not if you have a charger that will regulate the initial surge from the start up. I have a ravpower that does this and I have an aukey that recommends not to start the car too often whilst charging. If your in and out of the car all the time then the [ravpower] (Top Rated Car Charger, RAVPower Dual USB Car Adaptor (4.8A / 24W, iSmart Charging, Built-in Safety Protection) for iPhone 7 / 6s / 6 Plus / 5S, iPad Air 2 / Mini 4, Galaxy S7 / S6 Edge / Note 5 and More - Black https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00Q2GFP4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yR3gybNDAX33B) is the one.

  • Anissa Waters

    On the blades, what /u/fuckchalzone said. For DE razors that are efficient and well made: , might I suggest the following: * [Maggard Razors' V3A](http://www.maggardrazors.com/product/maggard-razors-v3a-aggressive-closed-comb-safety-razor-head/) * [Rockwell 6S](https://rockwellrazors.com/products/rockwell-6s) * [Muhle R41](http://www.westcoastshaving.com/Muhle-R41-Double-Edge-Safety-Razor-Open-Comb_p_334.html)

  • Louisa Wiza

    Heck, I got a new phone for free from an Apple Store in Vegas last year when my battery had swollen enough to lift the iPhone 5 front casing to the point where light was visible around the edges of the casing. It was well outside of apple care and had already been replaced once two years prior (on apple care for a defective power button) but the thing was a safety hazard apparently? And then two months later my contract was up and bought the 6s, so I have a nice, pristine iPhone 5 acting as a paperweight in my house.

  • Verdie O'Connell

    Problem with lights and miracle shoes is they dont stack with cheer/focus. So they're regen rings. Aegis is cool but force shield is kind of just as good? You'd save yourself 50 quartz. Growth egg only works on quest(maybe exploration exp?) and is just bad. Ultima is sweet but most guys get meteor or ultima or something similar at 6S anyways. Angel earrings would be sweet if they actually were a safety bit, but they aren't. I guess they are good for Tilith 6mo from now.

  • Prudence Cummerata

    Should I speak to you the way you speak to the people in this sub then? Should I start freaking out that you're risking people's safety by having That phone? http://www.ubergizmo.com/2016/10/apple-reportedly-investigating-exploding-iphone-6s-plus-units/ http://www.gamenguide.com/articles/85125/20161210/iphones-exploding-issue-is-iphone-6-the-new-note-7.htm

  • Wade Ebert

    Its the [Maggard MR14 handle](https://www.maggardrazors.com/product/black-friday-maggard-razors-mr14-gray-handle-only-scratchdent/) with a [V2OC head](https://www.maggardrazors.com/product/maggard-razors-open-comb-safety-razor-head/). I'm thinking of getting a Rockwell 6s and using the head on that handle since I'm not a fan of feeling of knurled metal.

  • Maci Paucek

    Someone tell these [Donors](http://mondoweiss.net/2016/12/republicans-millions-supporters/) to the ["Self-Funded"](https://youtu.be/O87ix4cVz5g?t=6s) Campaign. Or are the settlements [more important than](http://edition.cnn.com/2017/02/24/politics/sheldon-adelson-donald-trump-israel/) the safety of the American Jews?

  • Jazmyn Dicki

    In terms of jailbreak safety, get these ⬇️ OpenSSH (be sure to change root password) Apple File Conduit "2" PLS NO RECOVERY Filza File Manager iCleaner Pro from https://cydia.angelxwind.net/ MTerminal In terms of very helpful device things, get these ⬇️ Be Green from http://tateu.net/repo/ VirtualHome 8 n 9 Activator Peek-a-Boo from https://repo.ioscreatix.com/ (**only if you don't have a 6S or newer**)

  • Mallie Robel

    If the 6S is more than you're willing to pay, they're working on [a Model 2C](https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/rockwellrazors/rockwell-chrome-series-classic-adjustable-safety-r). This includes the plate I use most often, and is in chrome. But it doesn't exist until March (at the earliest). The 6S is a great razor. If this duplicates its geometry that will be nice.

  • Cole Lang

    [Twitter Announcement](https://twitter.com/malikhooker24/status/816008441588289537). Not unexpected since Malik currently mocked as a consensus 1st round pick, and possibly first safety off the board. Arguably the best 1-year starter that Ohio State has had in the past few decades: * 84 tackles, 5.5 TFLs, 7 INTs (3 pick-6s), 4 PBUs, 0.5 sacks * Unanimous 1st team All-American

  • Jacinto Prohaska

    There a methodology in lean manufacturing call 6S. Stands for: - Sort - Straighten - Shine - Standardize - Sustain - Safety I utilize this at work all the time and it makes all the difference with production flow, keeping and finding what you need to do your job, and keeping people from getting hurt. I started using this at home a few years ago, not to a huge extreme, but it makes it really easy to upkeep the house.

  • Danika Erdman

    A Rockwell 6S Safety Razor ($99), a Stirling Finest Badger Shaving Brush ($35) and a handful of Stirling Soap Samples (~$10-15) would put you at $150 and would be an absolutely amazing kit to start shaving with. I personally have a thick beard and struggled with terrible razor burn especially in the neck area. Switching to safety razors has made a huge difference!

  • Deja Rosenbaum

    https://www.apple.com/support/iphone6s-unexpectedshutdown/ >Apple has determined that a very small number of iPhone 6s devices may unexpectedly shut down. This is not a safety issue and only affects devices within a limited serial number range that were manufactured between September and October 2015.

  • Rupert Herman

    Short and sweet right? General Strat: MT Determines furthest knockback path available. Take it. General Damage Spread: OT upfront > Party > MT far end. Solo Tank/ Oh shit PLD/DRK: Living Dead/ Hallowed Ground after 3/4 cast for safety net WAR: 6s Holmgang. Very tight. Doable. Not recommended.

  • Eldora Schamberger

    Not unexpected since Malik currently mocked as a consensus 1st round pick, and possibly first safety off the board. Arguably the best 1-year starter that Ohio State has had in the past few decades: * 84 tackles, 5.5 TFLs, 7 INTs (3 pick-6s), 4 PBUs, 0.5 sacks * Unanimous 1st team All-American

  • Major Nitzsche

    Wet shaving (double-edge safety razor): * Rockwell 6s razor, $100 * Simpson's brush, $200 * Various blades, $50 * Apothecary mug, $30 * A dozen different artisan shaving soaps and aftershaves, $400 Still not even close! DE shaving is cheap.

  • Peter Smitham

    [This is pretty normal in Melbourne; here's a seagull getting completely fucking destroyed \(and recovering after being carried to safety by a player\) at a cricket match.](https://youtu.be/VJiUgI520qQ?t=6s)

  • Ole Nitzsche

    My daughter's 6 was shutting down with charge. Took it to Apple Store unaware there was even an issue with 6s, they tested with no problems, asked if it ever felt hot, daughter said yes and they replaced it with no charge. Said it was a safety issue.

  • Norma Daugherty

    I bought a 6s plus for the battery to fly drones, but now I can't even use my phone because it's a safety issue. I've had mine turn off at 40% before and yet I'm not eligible for a replacement. Kind of sucks apple.

  • Nya Bergnaum

    I use words like that all the time at work. Example, (when I swept the floor) I initiated a series of 6S implamations to ensure the quality of the work area and reduce unintended safety hazards. I got a $0.35 raise not long after.

  • Mortimer Beer

    Get it from Maggards when its back in stock... http://www.maggardrazors.com/product/rockwell-razors-6s-adjustable-stainless-steel-safety-razor/

  • Jay Parisian

    Lol, same could apply for head triad. 5 only feels safe if they have a sense of safety internally, 7 only feels safe I'd they can always look to something in the outside world, and 6s are a lost cause

  • Ellie Prohaska

    Just going to give you an honest to god suggestion, Artie Burns, Eli Apple and the Falcons corner all have LD and you can get a cheap LD jersey or a LD safety and have x2 LD and they're all upgraded to 85s/6s

  • Lonnie Turner

    Lol, same could apply for head triad. 5 only feels safe if they have a sense of safety internally, 7 only feels safe I'd they can always look to something in the outside world, and 6s are a lost cause

  • Virgie Herzog

    [Maggard link](http://www.maggardrazors.com/product/rockwell-razors-6s-adjustable-stainless-steel-safety-razor/)

  • Earline Stracke

    As an ex-tanker, 5-6s is basically the fastest we can go for a reload, fullstop. Skipping the safety steps, that can drop to around 4s, but comes with increasing risks.

  • Frederik Upton

    https://rockwellrazors.com/pages/rockwell-6s-adjustable-stainless-steel-safety-razor

  • Sheridan Collins

    OP's phone is a 6s Plus which isn't eligible for the program. Also, recalls are for safety issues; this isn't a recall. Just sayin.

  • Edwina Wilkinson

    https://rockwellrazors.com/pages/rockwell-6s-adjustable-stainless-steel-safety-razor

  • Ruthie Muller

    https://rockwellrazors.com/pages/rockwell-6s-adjustable-stainless-steel-safety-razor

  • Melany Torphy

    What I like is in 6s when I get the revenge, my own caution for safety or staying alive is gone. I at least need 3-4 good "dips" before I can go.

  • Cecelia Towne

    Lamar throws 4 pick 6s, 2 safety fumbles. Yes please. Id take a win over OSU over heisman though, personally, but I am biased.

  • Stone Heidenreich

    Check out the Rockwell 6S if you find you like safety razors.

  • Rozella Haag

    6S that place. Safety Standdown!

  • Rey Cole

    Things you might want to reconsider: * Small backpack. You'll find almost all tourers tour without backpacks. It's commonly seen on first-time tourers, because everyone quickly finds they absolutely hate it. The straps limit upper body movement, any appreciable weight loaded to shoulders will make them cramp, any stabilizing system to distribute load will interfere with either breathing or leg movement. Train and see if you can deal with it. * Getting a new helmet. Aerodynamics matter *very* little. The tip-top-best aero helmet is going to save mere minutes off your time in a day. Maybe 5? Maybe 10? But is that worth shelling out $100~200 USD? I'd decide no. If you've got a helmet and it's intact, use it. Also, typical 'fast' touring speeds are around 25kmh. A lot of loaded down pannier type are closer to 15kmh. Aero matters exponentially less at the average speed of 20kmh. * Some new shoes. If you've got the time to get used to dedicated cycling shoes and pedals, great, but 6 weeks is somewhat iffy to get used to riding clipless or clip pedals. I'd just go with your running shoes. The cheapest piece of junk clipless pedal set up will still set you back $100. A usable setup will run you $150~$200. If you've get dedicated road shoes, you've got to bring an extra pair for walking around. You'll deliver less power and be less efficient on the bike, yes, but you'll also be much more comfortable. --- Now, for gear I actually recommend: * saddle bag. To hold all your repair stuff. Get one small enough that you can fit repair stuff and still attach a rack-mounted bike bag like the Topeak MTX Trunk Bag system or something. If you're going rackless, get the biggest one you can. * Top Tube bag. This is where a lot of people keep snacks, electronics, etc. * Cellphone holder. (Quadlock)[https://www.amazon.com/Quad-Lock-Bike-Mount-iPhone/dp/B00X3LNYG0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1478896335&sr=8-3&keywords=quad+lock] seems to be the standard, but I've found that (BM Works)[https://www.amazon.com/BM-WORKS-Sticky-Holder-iPhone-Universal/dp/B013JW0NQQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=boost&srs=12034488011&ie=UTF8&qid=1478896358&sr=8-2&keywords=bmworks] works just as well for *much* cheaper. Having your phone on your stem helps with navigation and logging. Also saves some space in any bags you're carrying, and does away with having to pull your phone out if you need it. * Bottle cages and Camelbak Podium water bottles. Don't carry water on your back. You've got space on your frame for at least two 600mL bottles. Probably even 750mL bottles. Use them! --- For overall advise: What you're describing is called a 'credit card tour' style. This allows you to move from city to city much faster than most tourers, and thus eliminates the need for panniers for tents, food, etc. Pack enough water and you likely won't starve. Have some snacks, but depending on how you plan, you can always end up in a town or city to eat at least one hearty meal a day. ***Tour light***. You might be tempted to go out and buy a whole bunch of new stuff, but a lot of people do this and never use them again, because they loathe how much extra weight is felt on the bike. Take your bike out, fully loaded, and spend a day if you can riding the amount of distance you expect to tour. This is called a 'gear shakedown' and doing 90km of this made me go home and abandon all the stuff I had for 'what ifs'. I didn't need 5 bottles; I could live with 2 (water along the way), and I didn't need two spare shoes, three changes of clothes, I was going to be going a week and would be able to wash them anyways, etc. Otherwise I think the Wiki and other users covered pretty much everything. Remember to enjoy yourself! Have fun; there's nothing quite like your first tour.

  • Lorena Hyatt

    so, r/gtamarketplace, I don't have a garage, but I want to clear out a bunch of stuff I don't use anymore, so drop me a pm if there's anything here you're interested in. the prices listed are suggested, and i'm open to haggling. **Boardgames** coup, $5 firefly, $10 friedemann friese friday, $5 cthulu fluxx, $5 illuminati new world order, card game, starter set, $5 a fistful of penguins, $5 biblios, $5 fairytale, $5 lego playing cards, $1 A wolf in sheeps clothing, independent game, $2 A variety of magic cards (42 cards in english and Japanese, common, uncommon, rares, lands), $5 boggle, missing box, includes dice, cup, score sheets, chips, instructions, $1 penguin skittles from muji japan, (tabletop bowling game), $5 **Roleplaying games** pathfinder harrow deck, $5 shadowrun 3rd ed core rulebook, softcover, $10 gurps illuminati sourcebook, $5 pathfinder chronicles gods and magic, $5 pathfinder chronicles gazeteer, $5 dnd 5ed players handbook, $10 gurps alpha centauri sourcebook, $5 gurps illuminati university sourcebook, $5 Dragon Age dm screen, $1 pathfinder core rulebook, $10 pathfinder harrow handbook, $5 pathfinder bestiary I, $5 **Books, comics, graphic novels** advanced origami, $5 hippos go berserk, children's book, $2 herbal kitchen, a guide to growing and using herbs, $5 complete home bartenders guide, $5 herbal teas, $5 creepy crochet, $5 The last unicorn graphic novel, $5 chilly tales, comic compilation, $5 syllabus graphic novel, $5 misc Jason Kieffer comics (cabbagetown#1, drawing thinking of you dancing), $2 towerkind graphic novel, $2 balcony & container plants from A to Z, $10 Tokyo subway guide, in japanese, $2 Kobe street map book, in japanese, $2 Kyoto street map book, in japanese, $2 sandman, the dream hunters, hardcover graphic novel, $10 wayward graphic novel, volumes 1,2,3 , $15 miffy loves new york, children's book, $2 **housewares + others** lenore metal lunchbox, $10 shocktop beer glass, $1 ceramic bowl/mug with lid, $1 glass tea pot, $2 plastic salad spinner, $1 cakepop maker, $2 small slowcooker, $2 juicer (jack lelane power juicer), $60 5 travel mugs and water bottles, $10 for all aluminum tray for baking fish, $1 keurig reusable coffee pod, $1 3 smiley face cutout stamps for nori, $2 selfie stick, never used, $1 tiny sewing machine and hand operated hemmer, $2 hand wax and copper pot, never opened, $2 2 square tealight candle holder with words ethched on them (imagine, love), $2 miffy watch, hands fallen off face, but can be repaired with tlc + tweezers, $5 **biking stuff** 2 bike helmets (bern skateboarder style, garneau bike style), rarely worn, no damage), $5 ea folding bike for folks under 5'6, rode 1x, $100 **musical instruments** jamblock, $2 ukulele, $10 handmade custom bass guitar, sunburst design, $1500 practice amp, $25 yamaha pacifica electric guitar, $50 **electronics** macbook pro, circa 2009, $200 minolta programmable flash (3600hsd), $100 cellphone: chinese note 2 knockoff, with extra battery & case, $10 rikomagic android stick 'mk 802', $5 motorola bluetooth handsfree device, $5 antec volume control for heaphones, $1 pentax isd s digital camera, $100 pentax 49mm pancake lens, $200 variety of filters for 49mm lens (polarizer, haze, cigarette colour, uv, softener), $10

  • Meghan Stark

    All seriousness - The Spools + Rear Stand should be number 1 to make basic maintenance easier. $20+150 Panigale Spacers is $30 to remove throttle slop and while you do that, just install the 15$ progrips. If you get caught in the rain, the stock grips are slippery. Frame Sliders are pretty standard but expensive for our bikes. $300 Front Axle Slider is also typically cheap. $50 The stock mirrors don't fold in the 959 but I wouldn't change them unless you drop the bike and they break. Get a cellphone mount holder if you don't already have one. $60 Get all your safety gear and keep riding. : )

  • Tre Schmeler

    Okay, another [link](https://www.nordic-digital.com/en/cellphone-accessories/258-fiesta-universal-bike-holder-shears-42023) for the same thing. I'm not expecting it to be crash proof, I mean, in case of a crash, I think my phone is one of the least things I care about :)

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